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Rock type and onsight difficulty
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andrewbanandrew


Apr 23, 2006, 9:24 PM
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Rock type and onsight difficulty
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Has anyone noticed that it's significantly easier to onsight routes on certain kinds of rock? I do a lot better on granite than I do on this weird metamorphic stuff we have at a small sport crag near Seattle in North Bend.

In North Bend a lot of the small crags have this weird, chossy-looking texture:

http://www.northbendrock.com/...gallery/DSC_0034.JPG

I find this loads harder to climb on than other types of rock that look like the have less features simply because you never really know what's a good hold and what isn't with the enormous number of fractures running every which way.

Anyone else experience this or is it just in my head?


maramas


Apr 23, 2006, 9:40 PM
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Re: Rock type and onsight difficulty [In reply to]
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I find this loads harder to climb on than other types of rock that look like the have less features simply because you never really know what's a good hold and what isn't with the enormous number of fractures running every which way.

Anyone else experience this or is it just in my head?

I coulden't agree moore! I just climed a similar rock here in south Sweden today and not only was it hard to tell where the holds were it was also very loose and slippery. I like to be able to see the holds moore cleraly.

Robert


styndall


Apr 23, 2006, 10:15 PM
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It makes sense that you'd have an easier time with the rock and climbing style that you're used to. I mean, I can pull pretty hard on steep, juggy sandstone, but when it comes to granite slabs, I'll stick to 5.7, thank you very much.


james_climber


Apr 23, 2006, 11:57 PM
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on granite its easy to find where the edges and hold are


musicman


Apr 24, 2006, 12:07 AM
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maple canyon has always been difficult to onsite in for me, even though there's a ton of chalk on the route. the rock in conglomerate, picture a vertical (or super steep) cobblestone road and that's maple. once you've been up the route and know which cobbles are good it isn't to bad though. granite has always seemed pretty straitforward to me, either there's a hold or there isn't.


chossmonkey


Apr 24, 2006, 12:39 AM
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Its no figment of your imagination.

With some rock type seeing the holds or finding the best holds among the sea of bad holds can be really tough.


Not being familiar with the rock type or style of climbing can make it seem harder too.


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