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Your Suggestions Needed -- Best of Joshua Tree
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fredbob


Apr 26, 2006, 3:37 PM
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Your Suggestions Needed -- Best of Joshua Tree  (North_America: United_States: California: Joshua_Tree_National_Park: _Joshua_Tree_National_Park_Overview_)
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I'm currently working on an all new Best of Joshua Tree -- Classics type guide. Focus will be routes in the 5.7 to 5.11a range (with some harder and easier). It should come out near the end of the year.

I'm compiling candidates for inclusion in the guide. Cracks, face, sport or trad, I'd like to get imput from climbers on the routes they would like to see included or those which should be left out. Suggest star ratings (1-5), or other beta. I'll acknowledge everyone who contributes.

Now is your chance to suggest your favorite routes and areas for possible inclusion or provide other input. Post em here or send me a PM.

This new guide will feature maps, detailed descriptions, topos, and historical tidbits, etc., like the new Joshua Tree West book, but with probably a bit more detail.

Don't say nobody asked your opinion.

PS: Some very classic routes require a bit of a walk, should these types of climbs be included or not???


Partner robdotcalm


Apr 26, 2006, 3:52 PM
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Re: Your Suggestions Needed -- Best of Joshua Tree [In reply to]
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«PS: Some very classic routes require a bit of a walk, should these types of climbs be included or not??? »

Yes. No need to encourage crowding close to the parking lots. It'll happen without your promoting it. So let's try to lessen it.

Cheers,

Rob.calm
_______________________________________________________
'Tis better to have trad and failed then not to have trad at all.


caughtinside


Apr 26, 2006, 4:19 PM
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Re: Your Suggestions Needed -- Best of Joshua Tree [In reply to]
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You going to pick 60 classics Randy?
:P

Just razzin ya. I'd give you some, but my favorites are the well established classics.

Bird of Fire
Overseer
Prepackaged
Invisibility Lessons
Touch and Go
Pope's Crack
Nobody walks in LA (this one was a nice surprise!)

On the easier side, I thought Leaping Leana was great. Who knew .6 handcrack could be so much fun?


josephgdawson


Apr 26, 2006, 4:31 PM
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Ace of Spades and Popular Mechanics on the White Cliffs of Dover are just awsome. That is the best rock in Jtree I have come across and those two climb is fun. I would love to know if there is more rock like that in the park.

Double Cross is an absolute pleasure, save for the runout bit to the crack. But once you get in there it is sexy.

Forbidden Paradise on Echo. Randy, I know you dissed it on jtree climbing, but the moves are varied, thin, fun, and it is well protected.

Touch and Go is a blast.

Clean and Jerk is a blast.

The Continuum 5.8 crack, Bendix Claws 11a on Future Games are great fun, and the Invisibility Lessons 5.9 crack looks good.

You may consider including an area that has a couple of 3 star climbs over including an area with one 5 star climb and a bunch of lame climbs.


crotch


Apr 26, 2006, 4:31 PM
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As a 'selects' guide, are you focusing on classic routes, or classic crags/formations?


davidji


Apr 26, 2006, 4:38 PM
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3 come to mind.

Illusion Dweller.

Skinny Dip. Pretty cool tunnel through.

Full Body Stem (by Heart of Darkness). Where else can you do that fun move safely, with a top rope?


bluering


Apr 26, 2006, 4:54 PM
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The Bong, just because I like to say I cleaned the bong in j-tree. I know...it's too easy of a climb.

Stichter quits is kinda cool. I lead for my first time last year and the last little runout was a nice intro to runouts. ****

I liked '3 bolts closer to divorce' in Hall of Horrors. That upper flake seems realllllly loose now though. It's a huge flake that has got to fall soon. It seems really hollow when you touch it or knock oni it.

I haven't led 'stick to what' but my buddy I belayed said the lead is classic.

Double Dip was my first J-tree lead. I'd call it classic just because of all the friction slopers. Great J-tree intro. Actually, the crux moves on friction to me were a bit diceier than Stichter Quits.


lunabruandabby


Apr 26, 2006, 5:03 PM
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Big Horn Mating Grotto!!
Caught inside and Dangling woo-li masters are fo' sho two fo my favs!

have fun
jp


trevzilla


Apr 26, 2006, 5:12 PM
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Aiguille de Josh, just for the photo opportunities, if nothing else!


fredbob


Apr 27, 2006, 9:25 AM
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Keep the routes coming.

I am trying to focus on classic and fun routes rather than just classic formations; sometimes these overlap.

There will be a lot more than "60" but less than 500.

It will include many more moderate climbs, but still looking for quality. Mostly 3 star routes with a few 4/5 star routes and maybe a 2 star route or two. [A fair number of the 60 favorites won't make the cut]

The focus will be on 5.7 to 11a, but will have some easier and harder climbs. Routes like The Bong and Double Dip are the type of easier climbs that will probably be included. The upper limit may include a few easier 12s (eg: Leave It To Beaver), but nothing harder.

I thought about including a couple routes in the Valley of Kings because the area has 2 ultra classic 5.10b's (Witchhunt and Firewater Chimney -- they should be on everyone's tic list). But wasn't sure about including such remote areas...

A number of the 5.8 to 5.10a sport routes on Siberia in Outer Mongolia will definitely be included.

Still contemplating how far remote to include..


crotch


Apr 27, 2006, 11:54 AM
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Cedric's Deep Sea Fish Market
Light Sabre

Skinny Dip (as mentioned above)

High Strung
Dolphin


trenchdigger


May 1, 2006, 11:42 AM
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One ultra-classic that I can think of that rarely gets climbed is Vector - 5.11c in Loveland. It's a bit of a walk, but well worth it.

Also, Rock Candy - 5.9 (.10a?) is one of my favorite face routes in the park.

I'll add more to this post as I think of them...


lunabruandabby


May 1, 2006, 8:39 PM
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I can't believe you put the dolphin. Just thinking it makes me hurt. I swear I spent a lifetime inside of that thing.

How about these also.
Colorado crack
The exorcist
Black tide
Solid Gold
SW corner of headstone
Fisticuffs
White Lightning
Bird on a Wire
Comic Book
Grit Roof
Figures on a landscape

so, so many!!!


crackmd


May 1, 2006, 9:19 PM
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For one of you harder climbs, you must include Equinox which has to be up there with the best crack pitches in North America.

More Monkey than Funky for the sheer novelty alone.

Rubicon is classic for the improbability of being a crack that looks 5.11 but climbs at easy 5.10 because of the amazing friction of the rock.

It's way cliche, but I just love Sail Away.

Imaginary Voyage for the intimidation factor.

Alf's Arete and Satanic Mechanic as my token classic "sport" routes.


trenchdigger


May 1, 2006, 9:22 PM
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In reply to:
I can't believe you put the dolphin. Just thinking it makes me hurt. I swear I spent a lifetime inside of that thing.

How about these also.
...
Comic Book
...
I must say, I was less than impressed with Comic Book. The first pitch offwidth is fun, but not the best of Josh. And what's with the bolt on the face right of the crack? That's not the route... Then pitch 2 is a one-move-wonder.

In reply to:
so, so many!!!
Indeed...


lunabruandabby


May 2, 2006, 6:06 AM
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So much of ones' experience on a route is subjective. I have the best memories of Comic Book, so maybe i tried to slip one in there on the basis of sentamentality. And for one I think Rubicon is quite solid .10 rather than easy....

justin


djr


May 2, 2006, 5:47 PM
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I don't think that the approach should be a factor in whether the route should be considered a classic or not. Some people only climb at the crags closest to the parking lot and others seek the quietude of the far off areas. Each is entitled to find quality routes.

Here is a sampling of some routes that have stood out from the cowd for me (I've climbed over 900 routes at JT). I've tried not to overlap with routes others have mentioned, though agree with many of them.

Yonder lies my list:

The Swift
The harder they Fall
Dos Chi Chis
Kemosabe and Tonto
Addams Family
Apparition
Looney Tunes
Loose Lady
C.S. Special
ZZZZZ
Norwegian Wood
Mental Physics
Enchanted Stairway
Crown Jewels
Right On
Tiers for Fears
Bublinki

DJR


edl


Jun 20, 2006, 1:50 AM
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You should also throw in the classic boulder problems and the classic routes harder than 5.11a. What, do people who climb harder than 11a not count? Are they not worthy of a nice and informative well put together guide with historical tidbits and all? :cry:

Seriously, I'd buy it. Sorry for no suggestions, haven't climbed there very much.


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