|
bittergal
May 1, 2006, 9:24 PM
Post #1 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 1, 2006
Posts: 3
|
Greetings ! I am hoping to find trad routes (5.7 and below) in northern California around Napa/Sonoma area, or within 90 mins drive from here if possible. Any recommendations/info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
jsrj98
May 2, 2006, 1:57 AM
Post #3 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 2, 2005
Posts: 18
|
Unfortunately caughtinside is correct. The Bay Area is mostly Sport, and the Trad pickings are pretty slim. Most climbing areas have a few routes that can be lead with gear, but often they are harder than 5.7 (although there are a few that are not). The Falcon guide to Bay Area climbing is probably your best bet to learn about the various crags in the Bay Area. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762711434/sr=8-1/qid=1146534793/ref=sr_1_1/002-0830897-0396830?%5Fencoding=UTF8 The Tahoe area (and Lover's Leap in particular) has many moderate Trad routes. Unfortunately, it's about 2 1/2 hours from Napa/Sonoma. I'm always looking for new people to climb with, so send me a PM if you're interested in getting together.
|
|
|
|
|
norushnomore
May 4, 2006, 1:14 AM
Post #4 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 4, 2002
Posts: 414
|
Might want to change you plans and hit Sierra foothills instead if you want both wine and trad ;-) Area around Consumers River Gorge has both
|
|
|
|
|
miavzero
May 4, 2006, 2:22 AM
Post #5 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
|
the wine country has to have good trad climbing. i heard that warren harding used to go there all the time, so the climbing must be awesome.
|
|
|
|
|
salamanizer
May 4, 2006, 5:57 AM
Post #6 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 879
|
In reply to: the wine country has to have good trad climbing. i heard that warren harding used to go there all the time, so the climbing must be awesome. Yeah, the trad climbs are good, loose and hard. Most are bolted trad lines though and not cracks. Not many under 5.7 that I know of.
|
|
|
|
|
lextalion
May 5, 2006, 5:19 AM
Post #7 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2005
Posts: 216
|
In reply to: the wine country has to have good trad climbing. i heard that warren Harding used to go there all the time, so the climbing must be awesome. Maybe Harding just used it as an excuse to go have some great wine. Unfortunately in all serious, all the posts are correct about Sonoma & Napa counties. You also need to be aware of the rattle snake issue in the rocks around Mt. St Helena and Sugarloaf State parks. I ran across several working in the areas near both places. It getting warmer and the varmints are more active now. The Consumes area is a really great choice if you want to go trad climbing. I also like Lovers Leap. Frisk mill cove - (Jenner area) is suppose to have a 5.7 trad route (Gritty Kitty) needing gear up to 3". Would be nice and cool there for climbing as well. But for one route I'm not sure I'd spend the fuel unless I was game for other stuff in the area as well. Mickey's Beach is a favorite of mine even though a lot of the climbing is in the 5.10-13 range. These is several easier climbs that escape memory. The bouldering in the area is awesome as well.
|
|
|
|
|
zeke_sf
May 5, 2006, 7:29 AM
Post #8 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 28, 2006
Posts: 18730
|
gritty kitty looks like a 5.7 (I don't trad), but it's pretty darn short for what I think poster intends (long, cruising climbs). the sport climbs around gritty kitty are pretty fun though. beautiful rock in an unbeatable location. the belay stance is the kind of place a killer whale would roll up on to snatch and mash a seal pup into a bloody pulp.
|
|
|
|
|
omerdimsum
May 5, 2006, 7:58 AM
Post #9 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 112
|
General Discussion: Why limit it to trad/Nappa/Sonoma? Anyone know of enjoyable winery/climbing link-ups? I suppose most climbing/wine experiencing in Western North America would be a savored weekend. Hypocritically, I lived in San Diego but never visited Temecula wineries. However, in Baja Mexico, combining Enseneda wineries and La Fonda sport climbing is a decent weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
zionvier
May 17, 2006, 11:31 PM
Post #10 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2003
Posts: 125
|
You might want to check into the Santa Barbara/Central Coast area of Cali. I'll try not to be bias since I live here, but we do have a mix of wine and climbing. The movie "Sideways" put a huge spotlight on the area as a wine area, it's about 45 minutes north of Santa Barabara, but about half way you have bouldering, sport and trad areas. I'm not incredibly familure with what trad is around here, but I know it exists. Check out the route database for the Central Coast and you might be surprised. Just a thought, Napa probably has some better wines though.
|
|
|
|
|
dudemanbu
May 18, 2006, 4:17 PM
Post #11 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 941
|
In reply to: General Discussion: Why limit it to trad/Nappa/Sonoma? Anyone know of enjoyable winery/climbing link-ups? I suppose most climbing/wine experiencing in Western North America would be a savored weekend. Hypocritically, I lived in San Diego but never visited Temecula wineries. However, in Baja Mexico, combining Enseneda wineries and La Fonda sport climbing is a decent weekend. Duh. Because trad is the only climbing worth doing, and napa/sonoma are the only places in which it is worth spending time.
|
|
|
|
|
justthemaid
May 22, 2006, 3:01 PM
Post #12 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2004
Posts: 777
|
(For trad) I'd just drive a little farther and go to Lover's Leap. Ton's of fun stuff there and more choices for moderates.
|
|
|
|
|
omerdimsum
Jul 12, 2006, 10:45 PM
Post #13 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 112
|
OK, next week I am flying up to San Jose / Santa Clara for Friday and Monday meetings. Thus over the weekend I would like to climb and/or wine taste. While I am an advanced climber, I am bringing a friend who is a noob. We only have Firday night through Sunday night to travel and climb/wine taste...Should I drive all the way to Lover's Leap? Is that too far? Too hot? Should I instead head to Sonoma for climbing and wine? We are open to trad or sport. Thoughts? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
|
omerdimsum
Jul 12, 2006, 11:47 PM
Post #14 of 14
(2512 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2004
Posts: 112
|
Thanks for the PM's. Any others with input?
|
|
|
|
|
|