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CA wine country trad?
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bittergal


May 1, 2006, 2:24 PM
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CA wine country trad?
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Greetings !

I am hoping to find trad routes (5.7 and below) in northern California around Napa/Sonoma area, or within 90 mins drive from here if possible. Any recommendations/info would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.


caughtinside


May 1, 2006, 2:35 PM
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http://www.climbingsonomacounty.homestead.com/

Check it out.

Sorry to say, there isn't much trad in those areas. Some bolted routes though.


jsrj98


May 1, 2006, 6:57 PM
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Unfortunately caughtinside is correct. The Bay Area is mostly Sport, and the Trad pickings are pretty slim. Most climbing areas have a few routes that can be lead with gear, but often they are harder than 5.7 (although there are a few that are not).

The Falcon guide to Bay Area climbing is probably your best bet to learn about the various crags in the Bay Area.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0762711434/sr=8-1/qid=1146534793/ref=sr_1_1/002-0830897-0396830?%5Fencoding=UTF8

The Tahoe area (and Lover's Leap in particular) has many moderate Trad routes. Unfortunately, it's about 2 1/2 hours from Napa/Sonoma.

I'm always looking for new people to climb with, so send me a PM if you're interested in getting together.


norushnomore


May 3, 2006, 6:14 PM
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Might want to change you plans and hit Sierra foothills instead if you want both wine and trad ;-)

Area around Consumers River Gorge has both


miavzero


May 3, 2006, 7:22 PM
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the wine country has to have good trad climbing. i heard that warren harding used to go there all the time, so the climbing must be awesome.


salamanizer


May 3, 2006, 10:57 PM
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In reply to:
the wine country has to have good trad climbing. i heard that warren harding used to go there all the time, so the climbing must be awesome.

Yeah, the trad climbs are good, loose and hard. Most are bolted trad lines though and not cracks. Not many under 5.7 that I know of.


lextalion


May 4, 2006, 10:19 PM
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In reply to:
the wine country has to have good trad climbing. i heard that warren Harding used to go there all the time, so the climbing must be awesome.

Maybe Harding just used it as an excuse to go have some great wine.

Unfortunately in all serious, all the posts are correct about Sonoma & Napa counties.

You also need to be aware of the rattle snake issue in the rocks around Mt. St Helena and Sugarloaf State parks. I ran across several working in the areas near both places. It getting warmer and the varmints are more active now.

The Consumes area is a really great choice if you want to go trad climbing. I also like Lovers Leap.

Frisk mill cove - (Jenner area) is suppose to have a 5.7 trad route (Gritty Kitty) needing gear up to 3". Would be nice and cool there for climbing as well. But for one route I'm not sure I'd spend the fuel unless I was game for other stuff in the area as well.

Mickey's Beach is a favorite of mine even though a lot of the climbing is in the 5.10-13 range. These is several easier climbs that escape memory. The bouldering in the area is awesome as well.


zeke_sf


May 5, 2006, 12:29 AM
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gritty kitty looks like a 5.7 (I don't trad), but it's pretty darn short for what I think poster intends (long, cruising climbs). the sport climbs around gritty kitty are pretty fun though. beautiful rock in an unbeatable location. the belay stance is the kind of place a killer whale would roll up on to snatch and mash a seal pup into a bloody pulp.


omerdimsum


May 5, 2006, 12:58 AM
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General Discussion:

Why limit it to trad/Nappa/Sonoma?

Anyone know of enjoyable winery/climbing link-ups? I suppose most climbing/wine experiencing in Western North America would be a savored weekend.

Hypocritically, I lived in San Diego but never visited Temecula wineries. However, in Baja Mexico, combining Enseneda wineries and La Fonda sport climbing is a decent weekend.


zionvier


May 17, 2006, 4:31 PM
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You might want to check into the Santa Barbara/Central Coast area of Cali. I'll try not to be bias since I live here, but we do have a mix of wine and climbing. The movie "Sideways" put a huge spotlight on the area as a wine area, it's about 45 minutes north of Santa Barabara, but about half way you have bouldering, sport and trad areas. I'm not incredibly familure with what trad is around here, but I know it exists. Check out the route database for the Central Coast and you might be surprised. Just a thought, Napa probably has some better wines though.


dudemanbu


May 18, 2006, 9:17 AM
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In reply to:
General Discussion:

Why limit it to trad/Nappa/Sonoma?

Anyone know of enjoyable winery/climbing link-ups? I suppose most climbing/wine experiencing in Western North America would be a savored weekend.

Hypocritically, I lived in San Diego but never visited Temecula wineries. However, in Baja Mexico, combining Enseneda wineries and La Fonda sport climbing is a decent weekend.

Duh. Because trad is the only climbing worth doing, and napa/sonoma are the only places in which it is worth spending time.


justthemaid


May 22, 2006, 8:01 AM
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(For trad) I'd just drive a little farther and go to Lover's Leap.

Ton's of fun stuff there and more choices for moderates.


omerdimsum


Jul 12, 2006, 3:45 PM
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OK, next week I am flying up to San Jose / Santa Clara for Friday and Monday meetings. Thus over the weekend I would like to climb and/or wine taste.

While I am an advanced climber, I am bringing a friend who is a noob.

We only have Firday night through Sunday night to travel and climb/wine taste...Should I drive all the way to Lover's Leap? Is that too far? Too hot? Should I instead head to Sonoma for climbing and wine?

We are open to trad or sport.

Thoughts? Thanks.


omerdimsum


Jul 12, 2006, 4:47 PM
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Thanks for the PM's. Any others with input?


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