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Aid climbing question: cleaning traverses
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elepita


May 3, 2006, 3:23 AM
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Aid climbing question: cleaning traverses
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Hi all, I made a search and could not find a thread that answered my question, so sorry if there was one and I did not see it. I have trouble cleaning traverses, I know the procedure and I don't have problems when the pieces are close to each other, but I do when the pieces are not bc the leader back cleaned or whatever. Do you lower yourself from the piece you have to clean? but then I am too far to clean it! I have red the Big Wall book by John Long but he only talks about cleaning a small pendulum when the piece is fixed, but what if it is not fixed? Aid climbing savvies, please help! Thanks!


elepita


May 3, 2006, 7:46 AM
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bump


yetanotherdave


May 3, 2006, 7:47 AM
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one good trick is having a few hooks on an adj. daisy when you're cleaning, you can weight the hook to unweight the piece you're trying to clean. Get the piece out, and then pendulum onto the next piece. Only really safe on small swings...

Another good trick is convincing your leader to leave more gear on traverses, cuz sometimes you just can't avoid leaving pieces behind if they backclean aggressively.


krusher4


May 3, 2006, 7:57 AM
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Re: Aid climbing question: cleaning traverses [In reply to]
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not really clean on your question but I will try to help...
move past the piece you are trying to clean to the next. Clip into the placement the now behind you placement, hooks can help when the leader places pieces too far apart for this method. And like 'yetanother' said, on pitches like this it helps if the leader uses more gear.


ricardol


May 3, 2006, 8:14 AM
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hi -- i've a few traverses .. here are a few ways to clean a traverse that has been backcleaned (or hooked through) ..


1 - if the piece you are on is a fixed piece, then you just lower out. (since you wont be cleaning that piece)

2 - if the piece you are on is part of your rack -- well then the only way to clean it is to get off of it .. so you have choices.

a - use hooks to relead the blank section infront of you
b - use gear (like the ones you've cleaned already) to relead the unprotected section infront of you, cleaning that gear as you go past it)
c - lift your body off the piece, clean it and let you (not recommended)


the fastest thing to do is to ask your leader to leave enough gear in so that you can still clip clean through the traverse.

sometimes that is not possible, so thats when hooks come in handy, or other gear thats already been cleaned.


krusher4


May 3, 2006, 8:45 AM
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dang, I make no sense I guess I am still sleepy.......


highlander


May 3, 2006, 9:37 AM
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I usually clean an aid pitch with 2 ascenders and a gri gri. The gri gri can be very helpful because it acts as a back up to your ascenders and lets you put tension on the rope or release tension on the rope when you need clip your ascenders above the peice in question. For travering pitches that are tough to clean be prepared to do lots of swinging and running back and forth to clean the piece.
Reaiding the section is also an option and easier for pitches that are horizontal. Play around with the gri gri set up, it works.


angelaa


May 3, 2006, 9:48 AM
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stupid double posts :oops:


angelaa


May 3, 2006, 9:52 AM
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In reply to:
dang, I make no sense I guess I am still sleepy.......
I was going to ask what the hell all that really meant? :P

---------
and Let me 2nd Highlanders GriGri suggestion - actually learned the technique from the guy at Pagan!
I love the ease of it, and the fact that if I do need to swing 'round or really stretch to get my last traverse piece, I have a lot of control (in regards to the amount of rope tension) with the GriGri.

oh yeah . . and practice practice practice . . thats the fun part anyway :D


angelaa


May 3, 2006, 9:53 AM
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In reply to:
dang, I make no sense I guess I am still sleepy.......
I was going to ask what the hell all that really meant? :P

---------
and Let me 2nd Highlanders GriGri suggestion - actually learned the technique from the guy at Pagan!
I love the ease of it, and the fact that if I do need to swing 'round or really stretch to get my last traverse piece, I have a lot of control (in regards to the amount of rope tension) with the GriGri.

oh yeah . . and practice practice practice . . thats the fun part anyway :D


moof


May 5, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Re: Aid climbing question: cleaning traverses [In reply to]
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For mostly horizontal stuff, the gri-gri method is pretty sweet. For cleaning dead horizontal stuff I put away the second ascender entirely, keeping which ever matches the direction of the traverse.

To make life cush clip a fat biner into the handle of the ascender and clip the slack end of the gri-gri through this. Now you can suck up slack from the gri-gri by pulling down instead of lifting up.

My sequence is:

1. Jug up to the piece, yarding on the rope to suck the gri-gri up as high as reasonable.

2. I clip the ascender across the piece. It can be helpful to clip a biner in top hole if the ascender is getting torqued in wierd ways. Push the ascender as far as you can.

3. Clip a daisy into the piece to be cleaned. I use adjustables and tension myself up to make the next step easier.

4. Ease some slack out of the gri-gri until I can unclip the rope from the biner on the piece you are lowering out on. Note that you still have a daisy attached to the piece, so you can't accidentally swing out of reach of the piece yet.

5. Pull the slack out the system to re-tension the gri-gri and the line you're jugging.

6. Gently release the daisy tension to the last piece to the limit of your reach.

7. Jug up as high as you can to the next piece to maximize your reach to the now very lonely piece.

8. Reach back and clean the piece. Putting an aider on the next piece can allow you push against the new piece and get another couple inches of reach.

In one case I was able to go between two bolts where a cam had been cleaned in between by using a fifi on a line with a long 3 mm cord on the top hole to release it, and the swing can be fun. I've also had cases where I had to get a hand and foot jam in to release tension on the cam to I could clean it. Be creative. Flog your leader if he leaves you high and dry.


sspssp


May 6, 2006, 12:05 PM
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In reply to:
Flog your leader if he leaves you high and dry.

Naw, no need for that.

Just make him carry the pig down the descent gulley.


skiclimb


May 6, 2006, 7:46 PM
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All depends on whose peice of gear you are leaving behind. If yours relead..if his ..sayanora. Most leaders learn after at most $200

Always remeber .. "the rack was too heavy anyway".


onbelay007


May 10, 2006, 8:11 PM
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I've struggled with this too, actually, as I'm pretty new to aid. Hooks.... dammit, why can't I think of something so obvious!!!


Partner tim


May 10, 2006, 8:30 PM
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In reply to:
All depends on whose peice of gear you are leaving behind. If yours relead..if his ..sayanora. Most leaders learn after at most $200

Always remeber .. "the rack was too heavy anyway".

best post evar.


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