Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Big Wall and Aid Climbing:
Ledges/Pine Line/Jardine's Chisel Job/grigris
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wimberry


May 8, 2006, 3:57 PM
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Registered: May 18, 2003
Posts: 5

Ledges/Pine Line/Jardine's Chisel Job/grigris
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ok,
here are a few questions that i have as a result of reading all relevant posts on here re: the nose.

1) should we take our double ledge? why/why not?

2) having already done the 1st four pitches, is it possible to climb pine line instead, haul up that and traverse across to sickle? any better options?

3) is it reasonable to use jardines chisel job to bypass texas and boot flakes in the event of a) extreme fear setting in or more likely b) a bottleneck developing before king swing?

4) cleaning with a jumar and a gri gri? what gives?

5) oh yes, how do the first 4 pitches compare with the rest in terms of strainghtforwardness etc?

thanking you kindly!
martin


grayhghost


May 8, 2006, 4:18 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2002
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Re: Ledges/Pine Line/Jardine's Chisel Job/grigris [In reply to]
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1) should we take our double ledge? why/why not?
4 days or less on the wall=no
vertical vacation=yes

2) having already done the 1st four pitches, is it possible to climb pine line instead, haul up that and traverse across to sickle? any better options?
Bring 3 ropes up to Sickle and fix to the ground, then haul to sickle.

3) is it reasonable to use jardines chisel job to bypass texas and boot flakes in the event of a) extreme fear setting in or more likely b) a bottleneck developing before king swing?
Yes, it is faster.

4) cleaning with a jumar and a gri gri? what gives?
It is a great way to be safe.

5) oh yes, how do the first 4 pitches compare with the rest in terms of strainghtforwardness etc?
Hardest pitches on the route.


rickoldskool


May 8, 2006, 10:23 PM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
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Re: Ledges/Pine Line/Jardine's Chisel Job/grigris [In reply to]
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Your questions have been answered, but I thought I would elaborate a bit.

1. The nose is one route that does not require a ledge. How fast you climb it will determine where you bivy. Chris Mac of Supertopo has it figured well-
In reply to:
Tow nights on the route, bivy at El Cap tower and Camp V. Three nights, bivy at Dolt tower, Camp IV and Camp VI.

Only Camp IV is marginal for 2.

2. Pine line is a short 5.7 approach pitch. It only gets you to the base of the route. You still would need to climb to sickle. There are a couple other approaches, but none will get you to a point that a traverse to sickle is possible. The better option is already mentioned, but to do it in 3 ropes use 60m.

3. Jardine traverse? Not sure it can be aided, can you free .12a?

Lastr thing, cleaning an aid pitch with a grigri and one jug is superior. Suggest you go out and try it before you jump on the nose.
This might help Cleaning with grigri


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