|
|
|
|
bigwallgumbie
Aug 27, 2002, 1:26 AM
Post #1 of 6
(2164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2002
Posts: 86
|
Last trip out to the aid practice crag I managed to break two #1 heads bouncy testing them and destroyded a #3 head trying to clean it (guess it was bomber). Needless to say, nothing had a cable in it so getting the heads out looked pretty tough. In a rare moment of intelligence (musta been sober) I slammed a vermine beak into one of the small head and funked down on it till the head popped out. Alright, so a good solution. But, more importantly, the head held more force when I was funking with the beak in it than when I was testing the head the first time. Like, a lot more. As it, it took a weak funk to break the cable, but it took a MAJOR funk to rip the head out of the rock w/ the beak in it. The other #1 was similar (bomber) w/ the beak and the #3 was the s--- as well (of course, it was the s--- to begin with).
So, it seems to me that the best way to deal w/ dead heads (or damn near any head really) is to just slam a beak into teh f*cker and enjoy the fact that its solid. I'm guessing that driving the beak into the head forces the sides into the rock making it more solid. And yes, this will ruin good head for the next guy etc so don't worry I'll be considerate or something.
Mostly I'm posting because I've never heard of this and it worked like "the shit" (to quote dr peed on.) Or am I just too caught up in my own little world?
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Aug 27, 2002, 1:45 AM
Post #2 of 6
(2164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
Yeh, you could do that. You must be bouncing way to hard on those heads! Go light. I weigh 195 pounds and don't break the cables.
But beaking in heads(I've never done it on lead) is not as predictable. That is kinda like expando stuff. You can't be as sure. And using a beak to remove the dead head or extra copper works quite well. BUT NOT as well as a sharp pointed chisel. It is way easier with a chisel.
So if you want to screw up some climb by breaking all the cables so that you can use beaks in the copper that is left. You can quit aid climbing right now. No one wants to climb something with hundreds of little bits of copper in every inch of the seam.
|
|
|
|
|
bigwallgumbie
Aug 27, 2002, 1:52 AM
Post #3 of 6
(2164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 12, 2002
Posts: 86
|
Don't worry, I'm not planning on ruining good heads by doing this on lead. I was thinking more along the lines of the cableless variety.
One of the #1 heads was an Aluminum job which I've heard aren't supposed to hold all that well anywyas (fish site). The others I ripped the cable out of the head by yanking upwards.
And no, I ain't quiting =)
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Aug 27, 2002, 2:23 AM
Post #4 of 6
(2164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
I don't think #1 aluminum heads are good at all. Way to weak. I still don't think that beaking is as good of an idea. In fact here is a real expert who doesn't reccomend it.
"Ok, I DO NOT suggest beaking into copper or alumi-heads. Although you can get away with it in a pinch, it's a very dangerous practice.
"Just ask Captain Kirk, who took a hundred foot whipper and landing him in the hospital after getting life flighted, if it's a good practic."
Hope this helps. Cheers, Ammon"
|
|
|
|
|
rickoldskool
Aug 28, 2002, 6:06 AM
Post #5 of 6
(2164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 25, 2002
Posts: 214
|
Just a quick note: "beaking heads" is exactly how I got by two bad heads on the prow last year. Both heads were missing cables from being fixed way too long. You could also "hook" them.
|
|
|
|
|
bigwalling
Aug 28, 2002, 6:18 AM
Post #6 of 6
(2164 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
|
I forgot about hooking them. I perfer that. It is still marginal but most hook moves are. Sometimes you get into and area that hooks can't get in(grooves). That is when beaks work.
|
|
|
|
|
|
