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dyomad
May 16, 2006, 5:27 PM
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This thread has been done before but I'm curious now that some BD C3s are out there and with the CCH issues what people are thinking. So, again money is no object. Feel free to list the whole kit if you're that bored.
Pro, hooks, biners, slings, harness (waist and chest), haulbags, rope, etc.
Plan for Yosemite style granite climbing, pins scars, manky fixed gear, rivets, etc. Have fun or quickly hit the X button if your boss is coming around the corner.
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epoch
Moderator
May 16, 2006, 7:01 PM
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Seeing as "THIS THREAD HAS BEEN DONE BEFORE," and you admit such...
Seek your information there...
T2
(Seems like a shop/shop owner/a "the mountaineer" trolling...)
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dyomad
May 16, 2006, 7:49 PM
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The point was that "this thread has been done before" but, some things have changed. People's opinions have changed with the CCH fiasco and lack of HB offset availability. Also, some of the people who were previously asking this question because they needed advice before may now have some actual firsthand advice to add of their own. This will afford those people an opporutnity to share their experiences.
Just becuase I can search and find 15 different versions of the same thread does not mean it can't be an interesting topic to bring up again. If people aren't interested than so be it. The thread will fade into obscurity, but to automatically discredit every post as "it's been done before" will make for a very boring website. Maybe your opinions have changed since the last time you saw this thread. Did you try those adjustable daisies or that particular cam and love it or hate it? That's the idea. The thread idea may be old and stale but the content doesn't have to be.
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trapdoor
May 16, 2006, 7:54 PM
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Bravo! Way to tell em. :)
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zuegma
May 16, 2006, 9:39 PM
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I dont know that much about trad climbing, mainly b/c i have never done it. altough searching for quickdraws one day, i came across this site which is pretty cool
[http://www.spadout.com/rock_climbing/index.htm]
it allows you to create your own climbing rack amongst other stuff and gives you graphs and charts about the gear that you chose. i would check it out...its pretty cool
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highlander
May 18, 2006, 3:21 AM
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off the top of my head, I am sure I am leaving off some important stuff :
2-3 sets of BD costalots from .5-4.
2-3 sets of aliens black to orange
2 sets of hybrid aliens
2 leeper narrow cam hooks
2 leeper wide cam hooks
1 pink tricam, 1 red tricam
2 larger sawed angles for hand placing
1 leeper pointed bat hook
1 BD Cliffhanger
2 BD Grappling hooks
1 BD Talon
1 of the larger Pika hooks
2 of the larger Lowe Balls
2-4 sets of HB offets, Bronze & Al
20 quickdraws (wires)
10 spare biners
rivet hangers, RP hangers
10 lockers
hammer for cleaning
few heads (you never know)
metolius haul bag
A5 Ledge
Yates harness
3 rope buckets
dry bag (poop tube)
duct tape (it holds the world together)
Yates Ladders & adjustable daisy's
3 cordeletes
Yates 11m big wall rope
Blue Water 10m static
7m tag line
grigri
********and don't forget a good belay seat.
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heiko
May 18, 2006, 7:09 AM
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so much for the CCH Alien fiasco and the lack of HB Offsets availability ;)
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dangle
May 18, 2006, 6:18 PM
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I think it is silly to assemble a rack for a given rating.
I've got more crap than I would ever carry, and assemble the rack to suit a particular route.
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jammer
May 18, 2006, 7:32 PM
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My C4's will blow away your C2's and C3's :lol:
sorry ... had to do it
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euroford
May 19, 2006, 12:40 AM
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In reply to: I think it is silly to assemble a rack for a given rating. I've got more crap than I would ever carry, and assemble the rack to suit a particular route.
of course rons advice is correct. check out your beta and rack accordingly.
but generally speaking, if you and yer budy put together two basic trad racks, and wanted to go do some c3's, things you might want to include in yer quiver might include:
some aliens, some zero's, hb brass offsets, rps, ballnuts, and at least one (i keep two each as standard equipment) each of small and medium leeper camhooks and bd hooks, grapling, cliffhanger and talon. depending on the route you might also need some rivit hangers and probobly some hero loops to tie off fixed pins. probobly also better have 2-6 screamers.
as well as of course, regular cams, nuts and all dat shit.
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dyomad
May 19, 2006, 2:17 PM
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Good list. I'm not asking for specific advice. I have the majority of my aid rack and I like what I like. I'm curious if others are still as big on Aliens and it would seem so from our small sampling here.
I agree that talking in generalities about something as specific as an aid rack is not very beneficial, but the primary intent here was to kill time and avoid work that was accomplished.
I am curious about the Yates/Bluewater wall ropes. Any of you guys have first hand experience with these?
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euroford
May 19, 2006, 2:48 PM
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i have a spool off it that i use for roped access stuff at work. its really bomber stuff, if i could afford another to use on my wall this summer i would definitly buy it.
however, i've had to much shit to buy already and its not in my budget so i plan to use my regular bluewater accelerator 10.5 dry and i have no quams about it.
the yates/bluewater ropes are really nice, but its not necessary to have something that heavy duty. maybe if you really want to last multiple walls. i understand that my normal 10.5 might be thrashed at the end of mine, but probobly won't be. i can live with that.
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dangle
May 28, 2006, 5:02 PM
Post #14 of 16
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Regarding the Yates/Bluewater rope and the added weight;
The old addage about "watch the grams and the kilos take care of themselves" has great value to the climber, nonetheless when you look at the enormous mass of gear needed to climb walls the additional weight of this rope assumes negligable proportion and when I'm dangling with big air IT CAN'T BE THICK ENOUGH!! (if you know what I mean).
My first wall partner in Zion, Kevin Kelly, used to say that if he was going to jug on something he wanted it to be so thick you had to cut it with an axe.
For me the Bluewater fills the bill nicely and I'm coming up on my 20th anniversary of a productive collaberation with their product. I've been given excellent ropes by other companies. Some of them have performed as well, but Bluewater is still my preference.
I suppose that part of the fun of being active in a pusuit that involves exploration is that one gets to experiment with the tactics and gear. While all of this has its cost, and the expense of gear these days is not insignificant, it also allows one to refine their approach to HOW they climb which to me is actually part of the reward.
So I would advise the reader of these threads to not place much credence to what us blowhards are saying, but rather just use it judiciously to augment their own experience.
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addiroids
Jun 6, 2006, 5:44 PM
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Registered: Oct 11, 2001
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Not to say anything against Ron O, but my climbing partner and I have used his Mammut rope for, and I'm not shitting you, about 200 pitches of aid and probably more free climbing and the thing is barely fuzzy. And I don't even think it is the SuperSafe version. Look for something with a lot of weight or %age in the sheath.
Other than that, the previous big list of stuff is good. I would always carry doubles of hooks, because you might drop one, and also you might have to use the same hook (BD talon comes to mind) two moves in a row. Then there's always leaving one duct taped for pro...
Good luck on the walls bro.
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skiclimb
Jun 7, 2006, 2:36 AM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: Jan 11, 2004
Posts: 1938
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I'm not a huge fan of obsessive clean climbing.
Never have done more than C2..beyond that its nails buddy.
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