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alicia_in_leeds
May 21, 2006, 4:19 PM
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There’s a possibility that I will be moving somewhere in the US to work soon. However, where in the US this will be is fairly open right now!
Since I haven’t climbed in very many places in the US, I don’t really know what crags are where and where is best to live as a climber.
So…if I listed the following things as a description of where I want to live, where would I be describing? There might not be anywhere that fits with everything, but I’m hoping to at least get some possibilities.
The description is:
-within a 1-2 hour drive of a major (say, enough routes to keep me happy for a few years) crag
-the nearby major crag is trad
-the routes are more cracks or rounded breaks rather than crimpy face climbs
-the rock is good quality and solid
-it's somewhere with lots of friendly climbers
Bonus points for thinking of somewhere that is:
-close enough to a good crag for climbing in the evenings after work
-near a major airport
Apologies for the long post but thank you if you got through it!
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atpeaceinbozeman
May 21, 2006, 4:33 PM
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In reply to: The description is: -within a 1-2 hour drive of a major (say, enough routes to keep me happy for a few years) crag -the nearby major crag is trad -the routes are more cracks or rounded breaks rather than crimpy face climbs -the rock is good quality and solid -it's somewhere with lots of friendly climbers Bonus points for thinking of somewhere that is: -close enough to a good crag for climbing in the evenings after work -near a major airport
I'm thinking Tahoe.
Everytime I'm there it makes me want to stay. It has everything on your list, including lots of climbers, which IMHO seems to be a drawback at times. Overall though, I vote Tahoe, go climbing at the Leap.
Tom
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rotten
May 21, 2006, 5:11 PM
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pretty much anywhere in california, theres yosemite, the needles, j-tree and lots of new stuff coming up in the central sierras.
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ecjohnson
May 21, 2006, 5:51 PM
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Boulder, Colorado? Everything you listed and... Denver International Airport... and Climbing close to town for climbing after work!!! I get Bonus points!
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alicia_in_leeds
May 21, 2006, 6:01 PM
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Thanks for the replies so far, keep them coming!
I've had a look at some Lovers Leap pictures and it looks very good. How long of a drive from Tahoe to the climbing? What are the other closest crags?
Boulder does appear to get big bonus points, well done :D Same thing I guess--how long of a drive from the city to the climbing? What crags are nearby?
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markguycan
May 21, 2006, 6:59 PM
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Yes Reno/Tahoe is a good locale. Reno has frequent flights/connections. Donner Summit has excellent craging only 45min from the city(drive fast!) the Leap is probably 1.5 hrs, numeruos other small crags are nearer or a little further. Tuolomne is only 2.5-3hrs and the Valley is 4hrs w/ good traffic if the pass is open.
I live in Flagstaff AZ,(nearest big airport is Phoenix 2hrs).Flag has a healthy climbing community and a large variety of types of crags relatively close by (basalt, dacite, sandstone,limestone, quartzite). Some offer not so solid rock (sedona) which, once you get more comfortable with it offer incredible adventures.
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jaybro
May 21, 2006, 7:07 PM
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Truckee
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vegastradguy
May 21, 2006, 8:48 PM
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Boulder, Colorado or Las Vegas....both are right next to a lifetime of climbing on amazing rock, have major metro areas a stones throw away, and actually have job opportunities...
Boulder is probably better for friendly climbers- Vegas lacks a bit there...not that we're not around, its just that there is no solid community here, just lots of little groups.
Vegas is better for road trips- if you're willing to drive 8 hours or less, you can visit: Yosemite, Needles, Bishop, JTree, Zion, Moab, IC, Sierras, any crags around Northern Arizona and Southern California, Phoenix, Tucson, SLC, etc, etc....
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jaybro
May 21, 2006, 9:24 PM
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May need more info.
I think boulder and vegas are about equal for available road/weekend trip potential. Boulder may be farther from Ca, but you got the Black, dozens of other greenie spots, the Tetons, Wind Rivers, Idaho, Devil's Tower, Vedauwoo, The Bighorns, Rushmore etc. and both states border on Utah's goodies.
I would rather not live in either one because they are nasty overgrown sprawls and even Boulder gets hotter than I am comfortable with in the summer. But if sprawl don't bug you, also consider SLC.
If Employment for you is equal everywhere (a big' if') I think you need to consider what type and size and climate, of town you are most comfortable with. There a lot of places with the criteria you stated.
if it was me, I would consider Flagstaff and Laramie.
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alicia_in_leeds
May 21, 2006, 9:50 PM
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In reply to: May need more info. I think boulder and vegas are about equal for available road/weekend trip potential. Boulder may be farther from Ca, but you got the Black, dozens of other greenie spots, the Tetons, Wind Rivers, Idaho, Devil's Tower, Vedauwoo, The Bighorns, Rushmore etc. and both states border on Utah's goodies. I would rather not live in either one because they are nasty overgrown sprawls and even Boulder gets hotter than I am comfortable with in the summer. But if sprawl don't bug you, also consider SLC. If Employment for you is equal everywhere (a big' if') I think you need to consider what type and size and climate, of town you are most comfortable with. There a lot of places with the criteria you stated. if it was me, I would consider Flagstaff and Laramie.
Hmm, I don't think I even know how I feel about some of this. I don't particularly mind sprawl--not that I like it in any way, just that I wouldn't mind living with it if I were near good climbing. As for climate, I'm not too bothered--I'm from Minnesota originally, so I could deal with cold winters if I had to, but at the same time it might be nice to get away from cold and snow for a while.
I won't know about job opportunities until the late summer or autumn so until then I can't factor employment into the equation--I thought I'd suss out where the good climbing is first and work from there!
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jaybro
May 21, 2006, 10:04 PM
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Cool. Happy hunting and good luck!
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alicia_in_leeds
May 22, 2006, 2:19 PM
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Thanks for the suggestions everyone. Any more to add to the list?
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keinangst
May 22, 2006, 2:54 PM
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Chattanooga, Tennessee
Bonus: Three "local" crags (one sport, one trad, one both); cost of living is FAR better than most Western states; sprawl is relatively contained, with just a couple hundred thousand people in the metro area. Among the friendliest people in the US.
Drawbacks: Nothing much more than 2 pitches, but you said you wanted "crags". You can always drive a couple hours to NC and get on multipitch granite, too. Job market not exactly huge, except for medical and insurance. Summers (May-Sept) are really hot and humid, but there's nearby whitewater.
Otherwise, I'd say Flagstaff if I could climb with one arm and one leg after finding a place to live ;)
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njb
May 22, 2006, 2:57 PM
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Salt Lake City, man.
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devils_advocate
May 22, 2006, 4:07 PM
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Definately not Orange County, Ca:
There's no climbing in that close of a distance. Joshua Tree, Black Mountain, Tahquitz, Suicide Rock, New Jack - all at least a 8-9 hour drive. Williamson was the only close place and it's closed. And even when you get there, there is hardly any trad - all chossy face climbs, with territorial thug climbers (careful). On top of that, there aren't any airports in the OC. I'd recomend Colorado.
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bluering
May 22, 2006, 4:16 PM
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Tahoe...
SF Bay area a close second. Lots of after work crags but 2-3 hour drives to good trad crags (Tahoe, Yosemite, San Luis Obispo).
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j_ung
May 22, 2006, 4:34 PM
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Another vote for Chattanooga. That place is fantastic.
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sbc_trls250
May 22, 2006, 4:42 PM
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Even though i haven't been to the area all that much, i'll put a vote in for West Virginia, just because it hasn't been mentioned yet. You get New River and Seneca, and a little bit of bouldering as well. what i would suggest though, is to do exactly what i'll be doing in about 6 months. save up some money and travel around the states so you can see for yourself where you'd like to live.
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fearlessclimber
May 22, 2006, 5:02 PM
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mammoth california. that is the place you are looking to live for, it has everything within like an hour. you got the happy sad boulders, yosemite big walls, tuolomie meadows, owens river gorge. dude, and in the winter you got tahoe to go boarding. go with mammoth california.
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krusher4
May 22, 2006, 6:14 PM
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In reply to: Boulder, Colorado? Everything you listed and... Denver International Airport... and Climbing close to town for climbing after work!!! I get Bonus points!
yes, but the climbers are not nice so that invalidates his requirements.
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boadman
May 22, 2006, 7:26 PM
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I think that chatanooga is one of the countries unsung climbing mecca's as long as you don't mind muggy summers. Cheap cost of living, close, quality crags, an incredible variety of climbing, pretty cool scene....
Saint George Utah is another, although it's a bit of a drive for good trad.
Boulder is disqualified by her "solid" rock requirement. All of the best areas require choss tolerance.
In reply to: Chattanooga, Tennessee Bonus: Three "local" crags (one sport, one trad, one both); cost of living is FAR better than most Western states; sprawl is relatively contained, with just a couple hundred thousand people in the metro area. Among the friendliest people in the US. Drawbacks: Nothing much more than 2 pitches, but you said you wanted "crags". You can always drive a couple hours to NC and get on multipitch granite, too. Job market not exactly huge, except for medical and insurance. Summers (May-Sept) are really hot and humid, but there's nearby whitewater. Otherwise, I'd say Flagstaff if I could climb with one arm and one leg after finding a place to live ;) |
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up_up_up
May 23, 2006, 1:33 AM
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denver or boulder colorado!
tons of crags around.... sport, trad... this sounds like your place...
hope ya find a place your happy though
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airbender
May 23, 2006, 2:54 PM
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Another vote for chattanooga. I am a little biased but this is the place to live. twall, sunset, suckcreek all world class trad you can hop on after work. The trip crown bouldering areas and if you want to clip bolts fosters is right up the road. Cost of living blows the rest of the country away too. I have a 2400 SQ' home with 2 acres only 175k US. Much less ego at the craggs here too.
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alicia_in_leeds
May 23, 2006, 3:00 PM
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In reply to: Another vote for chattanooga. I am a little biased but this is the place to live. twall, sunset, suckcreek all world class trad you can hop on after work. The trip crown bouldering areas and if you want to clip bolts fosters is right up the road. Cost of living blows the rest of the country away too. I have a 2400 SQ' home with 2 acres only 175k US. Much less ego at the craggs here too.
Chattanooga is definitely building up the votes! I don't know anything about it so I'll look into it...
Someone mentioned hot and muggy summers, but what's the weather like in the autumn/winter/spring? And when it does get hot in the summer, how far of a drive to somewhere reasonably cool to climb?
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