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kungfuclimber
Aug 27, 2002, 1:42 PM
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Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 162
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We're set up to climb clean and we've been told it goes at C2- (we've also seen rated at A2+). The climb is a thin crack in a dihedral. The first 15 meters is very thin with pin scars every meter or so. Because of the angle of the dihedral, I can't get a cam hook in. The scars are too small to put a metolius 00. They are too flared to hold a nut. When I can find a way to get an RP to stick, the rock around it turns to sand when I test it. The rock around the crack is smooth except for a few sloping ledges (1/4" wide). I end up making progress by bashing in nuts into the scars with my nut tool and a big hex. At one point I'm on a hook (found a divot in one of those 1/4" ledges) having just placed a BD micro stopper). If I can make the next move I can reach a gigantic (1 1/2") section where I can place a solid cam. The nut blows, the hook pops and I zip the pieces out . The piece that holds is the one that prevents me from turning into a red stain. I stand up next to my partner . I go back up, pretty much the same way. This time I try to top-step on the hook (should be able to reach). The rock on which the hook is on breaks off and I go with it, doing a repeat of the last fall. I should mention that the rock seems "flaky" and makes sand when you weigh a cam. So at this point I'm pretty mad . I tape a cam to a pole and cheat the cam into the large crack.
The rest of the pitch (long) has some kinda scary moves like passing roofs, overhanging traversing, pendulum over an arrete, and hooking on big creaking flakes. All of it seems easy compared to the beginnning.
I've not climbed alot of aid, and most of it was on unnamed places. Did that sound like C2-? I'm sure if I cheated right off the bat or if I had some pitons it would've been much easier.
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krustyklimber
Aug 27, 2002, 6:51 PM
Post #2 of 2
(1209 views)
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Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
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Jon,
Sounds to me like you had a bad day on a C2... some days you wag the dog, some days the dog wags you!
Those cam hooks are bendable to a degree, would modifying the bend have helped? Or it sounds like you may have been better off hand placing a knifeblade in these scars and using them like cam hooks though.
Sounds like hard C2, although having struck any piece with a "driver" to place it, you may not have been doing it clean (so I don't envy you on that pitch), but doing that at all took guts! If the top of the pitch was all easier C2ish seem not too far fetched. That is a common thing for the guy who fell off a route to grade it harder then a guy who had the right trick or tool at hand, "it's all C1 'til you fall" still applys.
Good for you for knockin' it out!
Jeff
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