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sixleggedinsect
May 16, 2006, 3:40 AM
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looking for an experienced partner for some fun sh*t. ive got all the gear, beta, and the approaches wired.
you've got a free day here and there, you know your systems, and you're not even slightly scary to climb with.
get in touch
anthony
203 228 2783
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tim_b
May 24, 2006, 7:42 PM
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Anthony --
If you're going to Black Velvet Canyon, I've left a couple of presents for anyone who can wrangle a couple of buried cams out of a half-inch splitter. They either "walked" into the crack on their own (doubtful) or I kicked them in as I was scrambling up THIS route. I think it's Mazatlan or something NEAR there. The triggers are way in, and they're over-cammed. I tried to use the wire loops on some micronuts to pull the triggers, but because they're overcammed, they didn't budge, so essentially, they're a donation to the rock gods.
I can't figure out how to post a photo here yet, so search my pictures (there's only 1) that shows the base of the route, just about 100 yds left and above the BV Wall, in the Whiskey Peak section.
BTW, the climbing was awesome, weather perfect (Red Rocks 83 deg., Vegas 95 deg.) This might be my new obsession location.
Also, can anyone tell me the proper technique to remove buried cams ? It was a $60 lesson I don't want to repeat.
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sixleggedinsect
May 25, 2006, 3:41 PM
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In reply to: If you're going to Black Velvet Canyon, I've left a couple of presents for anyone who can wrangle a couple of buried cams out of a half-inch splitter.
dang. i was just up there coupla' days ago. i dont know if i can muscle my poor econobox into black velvet. need a to upgrade to a hummer..
In reply to: Also, can anyone tell me the proper technique to remove buried cams ? It was a $60 lesson I don't want to repeat.
whack 'em.
i find that with cams that are completely overcammed (ie: won't budge, wiggle) that tapping them on the side of the lobes with the nut tool, generally while squeezing the bejeezus out of the trigger, is a great way to get things moving. you lose skin off your knuckles, but it works. i have triple small cams now, thanks in part to said technique.
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tim_b
May 25, 2006, 4:49 PM
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Any luck in identifying the route picture I posted ?
It might be Wholesome Fullback, 5.10a.
This thing kicked my ass right off the deck. It took 1 spill and 3 tries to make it over this lower section. Finger cracks aren't my bag. But the rest of the way up was fun (hard, but fun). I need to ID this route cuz I think I was over my head, ability wise, and THIS route may have upped my grading abit.
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sixleggedinsect
May 25, 2006, 5:53 PM
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In reply to: Any luck in identifying the route picture I posted ? It might be Wholesome Fullback, 5.10a.
it def ain't wholesome fullback. at a glance, from the rock, it looks like it doesnt get climbed much, either. could be wrong there.
i might have even seen you there. when were you there?
i feel like i saw a climber working the bottom twentyish feet of a route i didnt recognize on whiskey a few days ago. spend a lot of time hanging, when i was looking. 'sat you?
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tim_b
May 25, 2006, 7:07 PM
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"Spent a lot of time hanging".
YEP. That was me, humbly trying to wrench my cams out of that damn crack ! (first time I lost some). It was Saturday 5/20.
But, it was the first time I used the Trango Flex cam. I think I remember someone posting that they can "walk" sometimes.
Also, it was my first time at RR. We didn't do so well route finding. Lotsa bushwacking. But, that place is awesome, and I'm just looking for a time to get back there. It's 3.5 hours from my place in Corona, CA.
What route were you on, Six-Leg ?
I might have snapped a pic or 2 of you if you were on the BVW.
There on yahoo photos:
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/timbirkmann/album?.dir=/743escd&.src=ph&.tok=phahJ6EBQ9H6pUNd
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sixleggedinsect
May 25, 2006, 8:08 PM
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i did sand felipe and ixtlan. lots of fun.
yep. having the approach/descents wired is what sets the RR local apart.
how far off the ground are your fixed cams?
cheers,
anthony
(who, btw, could still use an experienced partner for a day or two this week)
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tim_b
May 25, 2006, 9:13 PM
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Mmmm, if you did Sand Felipe and Ixtlan, then the route I was on was not in the RR Supertopo book. I was at least 100 yds left of you.
re: my cams (maybe soon to be YOUR cams), are about 10-12 ft up. They're spaced about 2 feet apart. You can run out there and score before sunset ! I was TEMPTED to post a pic of that crack with 2 cam slings poking out just to tease some RR lokes like yourself.
Regarding climbing this weekend, I'm trying to work some stuff out with the wife so that I have a green light (having a family has pros AND cons).
If I have a hole at all, it'd be Sat or Mon. If it's Monday, I'll stay in Vegas and drive early Tues morning rather than inch along home on 15.
I'll take your inquiry as an invitation to climb, except that you climb at a higher level than I (me, lead 5.8 trad, 5.10 sport). I led the first 4 pitches at Tahquitz, Whodunnit 5.9 (sandbagged rating !) and that kept me VERY busy, huffing and puffing. Loved the hand cracks, hated the thin step over 1st pitch crux and exitting the chimney on the 4th pitch. Just about cried (not really) when I clipped the old piton.
So, 5.9 is about my limit as a lead, maybe more as a shadow. You're probably 5.11++++++. I've been climbing for about a year and a half.
-- Tim
714-394-8335 cell
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tim_b
May 26, 2006, 11:53 PM
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Hey Anthony
If you're not booked for a Sunday climb and you want to be, call my cell.
We can make that happen.
-- Tim B
714-394-8335
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boltdude
May 27, 2006, 12:30 AM
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Wow Anthony, STILL at Red Rocks? Right on!
That route is Spark Plug 5.10b (or as Roxanna's book says, "old school 5.10a"). Also the start for Cutting Edge 5.11. The crack is pretty varied as far as climbing, but amazingly consistent as far as pro - tons of yellow TCU/alien/grey camalot, that's about it.
We replaced the 1/4" bolt anchor in 2004.
You can rap with one 60m if you stay to the left (Swain & Brock/McMillan both say 150' pitch but it's about 110'). Don't try to lower off unless you have a 70m.
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tim_b
May 28, 2006, 1:09 AM
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Boltdude --
Thanks for the info.
Where can I get route beta/top on this and the routes next to it ?
I noticed you were the one who added this to the route database.
NO WONDER I felt like I was over my head ... cuz I WAS ! (woo hoooooo)
-- tim_b
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boltdude
May 28, 2006, 4:54 AM
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Hey Tim, I don't know of any topos that cover that area; there are written descriptions in the Swain and Brock/McMillan books. Refried Brains is the nearest route that is topoed (in both the above books).
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sixleggedinsect
May 29, 2006, 5:27 AM
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In reply to: Wow Anthony, STILL at Red Rocks? Right on!
yep. high time i hit the road, eh?
my tan's getting good, though.
In reply to: That route is Spark Plug 5.10b (or as Roxanna's book says, "old school 5.10a"). Also the start for Cutting Edge 5.11. The crack is pretty varied as far as climbing, but amazingly consistent as far as pro - tons of yellow TCU/alien/grey camalot, that's about it. We replaced the 1/4" bolt anchor in 2004. You can rap with one 60m if you stay to the left (Swain & Brock/McMillan both say 150' pitch but it's about 110'). Don't try to lower off unless you have a 70m.
man, you just can't beat good beta. and bolt replacement, too?
greg is my hero.
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tim_b
May 31, 2006, 4:11 AM
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Anthony --
When is your "scheduled" departure ?
Still need a rope buddy that isn't "slightly scary" to climb with ?
Oh, and did you add to your booty by using your special technique to wrench buried cams for hungry cracks ?
Anybody following this thread can add 2 Trango (Durango) Flex cams to their rack, if they know where this route is ... Like BOLTDUDE !!!
-- tim_b
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