Forums: Climbing Disciplines: Trad Climbing:
Do you carry too much gear?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Trad Climbing

Premier Sponsor:

 
First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All


cornish_retard


May 26, 2006, 3:36 PM
Post #1 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 2, 2005
Posts: 5

Do you carry too much gear?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Are modern racks excessively big? Do you find that as you buy more gear it gets increasingly harder to leave kit at the bottom of the route? Would carrying less gear make you lighter, more nimble and therefore more confident, requiring less protection?

The ammount of protection you carry is related to the length and type of route. Taking this into consideration, I still tend to rack too much. I usually have 3-4 hexes, a couple of cams, slings, a variety of quickdraws and 8-10 nuts left over even after rigging a belay. The trouble is that I'm always scared of running out of kit. I'm not too bad for this, but I have seen people setting off up 30 ft routes with 8 cams, 2 sets of nuts, full range of hexes, a fig. 8 and all manner of other tat. They must be making life harder for themselves, aren't they?


Partner devkrev


May 26, 2006, 3:43 PM
Post #2 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 28, 2004
Posts: 933

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

my opinion(take it as such) is that you should take whatever you feel comfortable. You better believe I will be taking more gear if I am onsighting something at my limit, than I would take if I am flying up single pitch done it a hundred times climbs here in CT. Some climbs I have the gear memorized, so I only bring the 2 (or 3 or whatever) pieces I know I will need. Maybe you should start leaving more stuff on the ground and see how you like it.

I carry a pretty small rack, but then again, I also climb in locations that lend themselves to many options for gear(gunks).

Its all about what YOU want to do, if you want to leave more crap on the ground, do it.
One of the most awesome "gear moments" that I had was when I linked 2 pitches together, arrived at the top of the climb, and set an anchor with the last 3 pieces I had on my rack. I had all I needed and nothing I didn't, and personally, I think there is a certain sense of satifaction in that.
But thats just me

dev


cornish_retard


May 26, 2006, 4:06 PM
Post #3 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 2, 2005
Posts: 5

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Dev,
I know what you mean about using up all your gear. That is what I aim for but rarely achieve; it does feel good when you do it though. I think in my case the biggest problem is not 'reading' the route properly before i set off. More time spent looking would mean less weight to carry.


thegreytradster


May 26, 2006, 5:27 PM
Post #4 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes!


























































Except when I don't bring enough!


redlegrangerone


May 26, 2006, 5:29 PM
Post #5 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2005
Posts: 851

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I always bring everything I have. But I have not been leading long, so I do not always know what I might need. At this point, I would rather have way too much, than not enough.


deltav


May 26, 2006, 7:15 PM
Post #6 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 597

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Sure, I take way the hell to much, but hey, better safe than sorry. Running it out isn't my favorite thing to do. And if you are not comfortable in your placements because you had to settle for a different piece, than that can and will affect your climbing.


nthusiastj


May 26, 2006, 9:15 PM
Post #7 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I carry alot of gear on a route I've never done. Less on ones I know the gear for. Then again I carry really light gear.

When you get to a belay and need a #2 and you placed one on the pitch below, you are usually glad you carry doubles.


dirtineye


May 26, 2006, 9:41 PM
Post #8 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

no such thing as too much gear, unless you can't lift it.


jakedatc


May 26, 2006, 10:13 PM
Post #9 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 11054

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

too much gear + hard rock over mantel = scary shit haha

smart gear over too much gear.. sure you find occasional big spots on thin climbs and small stuff on large cracks but do you really need it? Having the options at the bottom is fine but bring what you need.. not all that you have (at least all the time). love the people doing single pitch with 18 slings and 2 cordalettes


alex234


May 26, 2006, 11:22 PM
Post #10 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2004
Posts: 89

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i generally carry too much but have gotten to the top of some pitches at the gunks with just enough gear to make an anchor...however a much more experienced climber friend of mine has told me, and i tend to believe that carrying extra gear can make a difference between an onsite and a redpoint on a route....just some food for thought...it makes you wonder how much of a difference those extra pounds of weight could effect your sending.


tradmule


May 27, 2006, 3:47 AM
Post #11 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 31, 2006
Posts: 34

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

A full set of Camelots c3 and c4 up to #4 only weighs about three pounds but think what kind of pro that extra three pounds would get you. It's no fun looking at a sketchy belay when an extra pound or two of gear would have made the difference. Skip a trip to Micky D's if your worried about a couple of pounds. IMHO.

Mule


rockguide


May 27, 2006, 6:30 AM
Post #12 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I carry smaller racks on routes that I know or that are well in my comfort zone. That leads to faster, more confident movement and being able to find the right piece more quickly and with less tangle. (and at risk of starting another flame war, no daisy on the front of my harness reduces tangle).

It is partly an experience thing - a more skilled trad leader can be more efficient with placements from a small rack (see opportunities that a new trad leader will miss) and be more likely to place a better piece in most terrain (reducing the need to back up pieces/over protect).

It also depends on rock type - I carry a much smaller rack on Canadian Rockies limestone rock routes (where bolts/fixed pitons, runouts are common and many belays are bolted) than on granite routes.

For me a big granite rack (like, a really big rack) is wires, a few tricams, a single set of cams (doubles in medium sizes) and the three larger hexes. I have not been to Indian Creek - I know the show there is different.

My heaviest rack item is my 8.5lb hilti power drill - as some of the routes I climb require multiple pieces in the 3/8 inch range. :lol:


dirtineye


May 27, 2006, 6:48 AM
Post #13 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

fvck you very much, it's been fun


overzealous


May 27, 2006, 7:18 AM
Post #14 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 24, 2004
Posts: 257

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you're carrying big pieces you turn out not to need for a given pitch, the second will really appreciate it if you leave them all clipped to the first piece you place off the belay.


dudemanbu


May 27, 2006, 8:54 AM
Post #15 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2005
Posts: 941

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

So THAT'S why devkrev sets 8 pieces of gear at every crux.. Thanks for the enlightenment dirt, i'll be sure to return the favor on my next lead.



In reply to:
What you mutts don't understand, is that carrying too much gear is part of an art--

the art of screwing the parasitic second!

Consider, the second, who climbs the route on your dime, criticises your placments, carps about your speed, laughs at your weakness, short ropes you at a critical moment, forgets the beer, you name it.

But most importantly, he climbs without the extra weight of the rack.

So heres how it works.

YOU drag your huge rack up to the crux. YOU hand all excess gear at the crux. You pull the crux, and finish.

Now, when the slimeball smug second reaches the crux, he has to carry all the extra weight through it.


ROTFLMAO!!!!!


I am probably going to get in big trouble for telling this dark secret of trad, but I don't care. IT's high time someone gave out good informatin about this big rack business, and now you know...

the rest of the story!


Apologies to Paul Harvey.


sungam


May 27, 2006, 9:53 AM
Post #16 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 24, 2004
Posts: 26800

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

lol, sounds like an awsome plan!
I'll try it next week... :lol:
after my chemistry exam... :cry:

-Magnus


carl_mogensen


May 29, 2006, 6:58 AM
Post #17 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 29, 2006
Posts: 3

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Practice makes perfect. Take whatever is comfortable and you'll learn from the experience. :D


swede


May 29, 2006, 7:58 AM
Post #18 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 1, 2003
Posts: 133

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Well, I nearly always carry too much gear, but does it really matter? Most often itīs just a little bit of extra weight training. In worst case it means blowing the crux, but having enough (and well placed) pro in the rock.

I really doesnīt care if I have too much gear if I make it to the top. But having to return to the ground because of too little gear really sucks when I just have a few meters left.

On the other hand, being lighter, more nimble, more confident and fall on too little (or marginal) gear is a very bad thing indeed. The worst case is why I carry pro at all.


yekcir


May 29, 2006, 8:35 AM
Post #19 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Feb 21, 2005
Posts: 69

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

My favorite situation is racking up for an R rated route that you can't get a good look at. You may see that first dubious placement, but after that you've got no idea what you'll need. So, you rack everything in sight so you'll have what you need when you've got an opportunity to place something. Meanwhile, while you're covering all of the sizes from 6 inches to guitar string wires, you're thinking about how you're going to place 3 or maybe 4 of them all told!

Of course, it's a pretty bad feeling when you get to that key placement and you've got nothing that will fit. I'll keep racking too much and hang those big cams off of that key brassie, telling my second it was to keep it from levering out!


dutyje


May 29, 2006, 10:07 AM
Post #20 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 31, 2004
Posts: 727

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
What you mutts don't understand, is that carrying too much gear is part of an art--

the art of screwing the parasitic second!

Consider, the second, who climbs the route on your dime, criticises your placments, carps about your speed, laughs at your weakness, short ropes you at a critical moment, forgets the beer, you name it.

But most importantly, he climbs without the extra weight of the rack.

So heres how it works.

YOU drag your huge rack up to the crux. YOU hang all excess gear at the crux. You pull the crux, and finish.

Now, when the slimeball smug second reaches the crux, he has to carry all the extra weight through it.


ROTFLMAO!!!!!


I am probably going to get in big trouble for telling this dark secret of trad, but I don't care. IT's high time someone gave out good informatin about this big rack business, and now you know...

the rest of the story!


Apologies to Paul Harvey.

:lol:

Trophy.


dirtineye


May 29, 2006, 10:31 AM
Post #21 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
In reply to:
What you mutts don't understand, is that carrying too much gear is part of an art--

the art of screwing the parasitic second!

Consider, the second, who climbs the route on your dime, criticises your placments, carps about your speed, laughs at your weakness, short ropes you at a critical moment, forgets the beer, you name it.

But most importantly, he climbs without the extra weight of the rack.

So heres how it works.

YOU drag your huge rack up to the crux. YOU hang all excess gear at the crux. You pull the crux, and finish.

Now, when the slimeball smug second reaches the crux, he has to carry all the extra weight through it.


ROTFLMAO!!!!!


I am probably going to get in big trouble for telling this dark secret of trad, but I don't care. IT's high time someone gave out good informatin about this big rack business, and now you know...

the rest of the story!


Apologies to Paul Harvey.

:lol:

Trophy.

LOL, why thanks!

Go to supertopo, check out the second part, since you are in NC, you might guess who the mystery second is, LOL!

The thread is "the fine art of screwing the second"


tradrenn


May 29, 2006, 7:38 PM
Post #22 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 15, 2005
Posts: 2990

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I usually cary to sets of stoppers, 5 aliens ( wish I had 10 ) and 9 camalots

Every time I leave someting on the ground I endup needing that piece for an anchor. Something to think about for you.

The irony is that on average I will have 10 or 12 draws on me but I will carry about 30 pcs on my rack.


dirtineye


May 29, 2006, 9:15 PM
Post #23 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 29, 2003
Posts: 5590

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What a n00b rack.


dudemanbu


May 29, 2006, 9:41 PM
Post #24 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2005
Posts: 941

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

In reply to:
I usually cary to sets of stoppers, 5 aliens ( wish I had 10 ) and 9 camalots

Every time I leave someting on the ground I endup needing that piece for an anchor. Something to think about for you.

The irony is that on average I will have 10 or 12 draws on me but I will carry about 30 pcs on my rack.

Wow. That's a ton of gear to bring on just about any climb.

I just about always bring one set of bd stoppers, dmm peenuts, and grey, yell, blue, and red WC zeros, and .5, .75, 1, 2 maxcams. If I see myself needing it i'll bring the number 3 as well. 9 trad draws is usually all i need.


cosmiccragsman


May 29, 2006, 10:28 PM
Post #25 of 61 (7332 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 7, 2005
Posts: 778

Re: Do you carry too much gear? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Yes I carry a lot of gear. But, my excuse is, this beat up, and many times injured,(not all from climbing. :D ) 52 year old body,
doesn't like taking long falls anymore. :lol: :lol: :lol:
Cosmiccragsman

First page Previous page 1 2 3 Next page Last page  View All

Forums : Climbing Disciplines : Trad Climbing

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook