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climbappalachia
May 29, 2006, 2:55 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2005
Posts: 44
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I know I saw this information somewhere but can neither find or remeber it for the life of me. For reasons I won't get into here, I prefer using a prussik below the rappel device. Often times the ropes twist themselves as they are feeding through the prussik. I am certain I saw a Tech Tip or something explaining how to deal with this situation. I think it involved clipping a draw somewhere inbetween the ropes but I can't figure it out. Does anyone remember seeing this info elsewhere on the web or was it on this site? Any help on this problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Chris
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papounet
May 29, 2006, 11:10 PM
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Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
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There is absolutely nothing wrong in havng your "insert-prefered-autoblock-knot-here" below the descending device. this setup is actually easier than the autoblock-knot above. the cleanest way to set it up is with the device extended (with a sling) and teh knot atached to you rbelay loop. The trick to avoid twisting ropes : 1, use a device that separates the two ropes : ATC, bugette, reverso, TRE,etc... 2, connect a draw to one of your leg loop and have the other biner on one of the ropes before it enters the autoblock-knot
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billcoe_
Jun 2, 2006, 11:35 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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In reply to: There is absolutely nothing wrong in havng your "insert-prefered-autoblock-knot-here" below the descending device. this setup is actually easier than the autoblock-knot above. the cleanest way to set it up is with the device extended (with a sling) and teh knot atached to you rbelay loop. The trick to avoid twisting ropes : 1, use a device that separates the two ropes : ATC, bugette, reverso, TRE,etc... 2, connect a draw to one of your leg loop and have the other biner on one of the ropes before it enters the autoblock-knot Exactly !
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fabe
Jun 2, 2006, 11:44 PM
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Registered: Apr 11, 2003
Posts: 75
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way true! I just had a training course in mountain rescue the other weekend! and to get some one off a jammed prussic/figure 8 (or similar) is not an easy thing to do (especially if he/she is unconscious!). Ill post an article of the method i found to be the simplest if I get time.....
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