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Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes?
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kevinheiss


May 29, 2006, 10:11 AM
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Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes?
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My girlfriend is getting into climbing and is hoping to do some multi-pitch sport route to get the feeling of heights. I know you will say to do trad but unfortunately, I still don't have a full rack and am a student with little money.

I heard there is some multi-pitch climbs in Canmore but not sure is they are in the range that I am looking for.

Any location that is worth going to for a trip beside Europe and Mexico would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks a lot in advance
Kevin


erclimb


May 29, 2006, 10:20 AM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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red rocks...cat in the hat (5.6) is one of the all time greats...you don't need a full rack

plenty to do in arizona

j-tree...not much multi-pitch but all the climbing you could want


ryanb


May 29, 2006, 10:32 AM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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I think there are a coupld of easy well bolted multi pitches at the City of Rocks (Rain Dance the only name I can recall) but I don't think they are super long...still it is a cool place...and there are are also a few 1-200 foot lines you could lead with a set of nuts and a few cams and or hexes(Like everything on the front side of bath rock)


rockguide


May 29, 2006, 10:55 AM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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Most of the multi pitch bolted routes check in at 5.10b and above.



"Morningside" on McGillvery slabs is a bolted 5.6. It is in the new sport climbing guide. Some loose rock and a longer walk down (not sure if it is set for single rope rappels) - but is a good day out.

Greywaves on Kidgoat is 5.8. Popular. Keelhaul wall is next to it and is a long 5.5 with mostly fixed protection - you would need a few wires and some small cams. I hear that you are on a budget ...

PM me if you have any other questions.


trevzilla


May 29, 2006, 12:09 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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Definately Red Rocks. . .

Solar Slab Gully - 5.3 - 5 pitches
Rising Moons - 5.5pg - 3 pitches
Physical Graffiti - 5.6 - 2 pitches
Advance Romance - 5.6 - 3 pitches
Northeast Arete - 5.6 - 5 pitches
Solar Slab - 5.6 - 9 pitches (You must do Solar Slab gully to get to this one, for a total of 14 pitches)
Cat in the Hat - 5.6+ - 5 pitches
Cat Walk - 5.6+ pg - 8 pitches

I have a compiled list of all the multipitch routes in Red Rocks from the Falcon Guide (todd Swain I believe). If you'd like me to email you this list PM me. This goes for anyone. . .


justthemaid


May 29, 2006, 12:40 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Definately Red Rocks. . .

Solar Slab Gully - 5.3 - 5 pitches
Rising Moons - 5.5pg - 3 pitches
Physical Graffiti - 5.6 - 2 pitches
Advance Romance - 5.6 - 3 pitches
Northeast Arete - 5.6 - 5 pitches
Solar Slab - 5.6 - 9 pitches (You must do Solar Slab gully to get to this one, for a total of 14 pitches)
Cat in the Hat - 5.6+ - 5 pitches
Cat Walk - 5.6+ pg - 8 pitches

I have a compiled list of all the multipitch routes in Red Rocks from the Falcon Guide (todd Swain I believe). If you'd like me to email you this list PM me. This goes for anyone. . .

Those are all trad routes.

Would someone be able to do them with only a small or partial rack?

I think the OP was asking for sport routes (??)


mcgivney_nh


May 29, 2006, 1:24 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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I think that theres some in rumney, nh... i better check the guidebook though.

-Sean


dr_feelgood


May 29, 2006, 2:09 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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The backsides of enchanted rock in texas has some traditionally bolted slabs about that difficulty, but certainly don't make the trip just for that.


jumpingrock


May 29, 2006, 3:01 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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You could ask a reasonably experianced leader to take the both of you up a nice 5.5 or 5.6 trad route in the canmore area. Thinking about Kid Goat would be a good choice. Yamnuska would also be a good choice, unless of course she has issues with the death approach and the fact that Yammy is falling down almost constantly. :lol:

If you do have some of the smaller gear I would highly recommend Keelhaul as rockguide says. It's a fantastic climb with a relitively low pucker factor for the area, but do bring up a few screamers for the pins.


Partner macherry


May 29, 2006, 3:02 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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city of rocks, "theatre of shadows". Four pitches, fully bolted (over bolted some say), easy climbing.

i highly recommend it!


mactrad


May 29, 2006, 3:47 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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I second "theater of shadows" on Jacksons Thumb in the City of Rocks. The guide has it at 5.7, 4 pitches. It's been a couple of years, but if I remember correctly one of the pitches had around 15 or 16 bolts, and the others weren't very far behind. Easy climbing and relatively low angle, a good first multi-pitch route. Jacksons Thumb is near Steinfells Dome, and is listed in that section, at least in my guide.


macblaze


May 29, 2006, 4:16 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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If you do come out west, there are some 5.7 multipitches in Nordegg (3 or 4 pitches-100m total) although I wouldn't think they were worth a major road trip. Still, a day or two there and you could head down to Canmore or Lake Louise (about 3 hours away) for some awesome climbing and hiking...

Depends on your pocket book I guess

Bruce


chemicalclimber


May 29, 2006, 4:32 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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'Nother vote for CoR. Theater of shadows is a great one, 5.7, but it climbs easier than that. Something to keep in mind is that while a pitch does have 16 or 17 bolts, its a full 60m pitch.


nieder


May 29, 2006, 4:55 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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Definitely Red Rocks, but on your way there, stop by Prophesy Wall and Snow Canyon in St. George, UT for some great multi-pitch sport. Slightly higher grades than 5.6, but well very worth it.

Prophesy Wall: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...tArea.php?AreaID=176
Sticky Revelations, 5.10, 3 pitches
Various other 3-4 pitch routes in the .10 range...

Snow Canyon: http://www.rockclimbing.com/...istArea.php?AreaID=7
Leopard Skin, 5.9, 4 pitches
Thousand Pints of Light. 5.8, 3-4 pitches
Pygmy Alien, 5.8, 2 pitches


smax


Jun 2, 2006, 1:43 PM
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Re: Where is there easy (5.6 or so) multi-pitch sport routes [In reply to]
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Just did a couple in the City of Rocks, ID. Several 5.7 and under, well protected. Also some good single pitch sport, and really easy multisport trad there.


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