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bill413
May 26, 2006, 2:42 PM
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In that first one, he should have just slung the branches. No need to get the slings all wet & frozen!
He probably figured that he & his partner were moving very slowly on the ice, so a static rope was appropriate.
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bill413
May 26, 2006, 2:43 PM
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That second set-up is just [*shudder*].
No lockers at all!
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joeforte
May 26, 2006, 2:44 PM
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Go climb something instead.
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euroford
May 26, 2006, 2:47 PM
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in that second pic, is that a fukin home depot rope? i swear, i have one that looks just like it. (for like tying stuff up, not climbing).
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rhythm164
May 26, 2006, 2:53 PM
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In reply to: In that first one, he should have just slung the branches. No need to get the slings all wet & frozen! .
You mean those twigs behind him? Good lord man.
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bill413
May 26, 2006, 2:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In that first one, he should have just slung the branches. No need to get the slings all wet & frozen! . You mean those twigs behind him? Good lord man. |
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anykineclimb
May 26, 2006, 2:59 PM
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In reply to: Go climb something instead.
Instead of what?
Showing fellow climbers examples of poor anchoring?
**EDIT** you're killing me Bill!! :lol:
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austinclmbr
May 26, 2006, 3:28 PM
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is that an overhand knot in the second pic? I caxn't tell b/c it is dressed so poorly
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markc
May 26, 2006, 3:33 PM
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I rarely like hearing or seeing the words 'interesting' and 'anchor' in the same sentence. This thread just reinforces that gut reaction.
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rhythm164
May 26, 2006, 3:41 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In that first one, he should have just slung the branches. No need to get the slings all wet & frozen! . You mean those twigs behind him? Good lord man. Yes. In that weather they're probably frozen good & solid. Seems a mighty fine trad anchor to me. :wink:
Posts like this are the reason I don't rope up with just anyone.
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grampacharlie
May 26, 2006, 3:44 PM
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I f I was this guys partner, I think I'd throw up when I saw that peice of sh*t anchor :oops: and then I'd go home.
euroford wrote:
In reply to: in that second pic, is that a fukin home depot rope? i swear, i have one that looks just like it. (for like tying stuff up, not climbing).
I think it is :shock:
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bill413
May 26, 2006, 3:54 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: In that first one, he should have just slung the branches. No need to get the slings all wet & frozen! . You mean those twigs behind him? Good lord man. Yes. In that weather they're probably frozen good & solid. Seems a mighty fine trad anchor to me. :wink: Posts like this are the reason I don't rope up with just anyone. |
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saxfiend
May 26, 2006, 3:55 PM
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Anybody else notice the crossloaded biner in the first picture? Though with everything else in that "anchor" being totally fucked up, how could it be any worse.
:shock:
JL
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rhythm164
May 26, 2006, 4:10 PM
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[quote="bill413]
\Good point - you want to know that they can properly assess potential anchors. And, I'll further point out that the guy had only slung 1 ice pillar - no redundancy. By using several of those "twigs" he could have built a system with multiple points of failure.
Oh, make no mistake, I'm notsaying the ice pillar was bomber, and yea, as far as redundancy goes, use the twigs if you're really in a pinch, or, and this is a zany thought, fire in a couple ice screws. It seems like you were saying to use the brambles instead of the ice, not both. But if I had to choose one or the other, I'd probably sling the pillar.
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justthemaid
May 26, 2006, 4:12 PM
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The really scary thing is that to get these great close-ups, the OP must have been seconding behind this guy on the Home Depot rope. :)
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tweek
May 26, 2006, 4:15 PM
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A gri-gri on a multi-pitch! Dude! Do you know how much that extra mass was probably slowing you down! (I hope none of the other people saw you carying one on a trad climb. )
Oh and a locker on one end of that draw would make this a much safer setup. Either side, but at least one locker should be in all anchors.
(any beginners reading, please ignore all of my comments)
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stymingersfink
Jun 1, 2006, 12:57 AM
Post #19 of 21
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In reply to: By using several of those "twigs" he could have built a system with multiple points of failure.
ROTFLMAO!
Multiple Points of Failure? Fuck that! I want none of those in my anchor system.
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adnix
Jun 2, 2006, 9:26 PM
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After having climbed some of the longer alpine routes I would say both anchors on the first pictrures are still good ones. I've seen a lot worse.
Both of the anchors are good enough for holding a top rope fall. On long routes that's not always the case. Sometimes you'll bang a peg half way in and call it "bomber stand". Sometimes you start simulclimbing and end up simul-soloing since you don't get anything in cause of excess verglass or loose rock. Those moments eat your nerves for the first day but after one or two well slept nights on the mountain you'll just smile when you see the crappy piece you partner had trouble placing. :D
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