|
bigchuckp
Jun 1, 2006, 4:44 AM
Post #1 of 7
(2075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 7, 2006
Posts: 1
|
My friend and I are getting into sport climbing but are confused about how to get down. Are there usually chains with a carabiner to rappel off of? With multi-pitch routes are there usually chains with a carabiner at each pitch? If not what are you supposed to rappel off of without leaving gear behind?
Thanks for any help!
|
|
|
|
|
rockguide
Jun 1, 2006, 5:19 AM
Post #2 of 7
(2075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 8, 2004
Posts: 1359
|
In reply to: My friend and I are getting into sport climbing but are confused about how to get down. Are there usually chains with a carabiner to rappel off of? With multi-pitch routes are there usually chains with a carabiner at each pitch? If not what are you supposed to rappel off of without leaving gear behind? Thanks for any help!
Here is the most recent time this question has been posed.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/post/1366324#1366324
You are going to end up seeing the same answers so you can follow up with any specific questions this research brings you.
There are more similar threads - you can use the search function to find them.
If I was to summarize - you will find vague instructions separated by pleas for you to either find an experienced climber to show you or take a course.
The best was the suggestion to refer to
http://www.geocities.com/...g/misc/loweroff.html
Which has one of the many ways to get to one of the two primary solutions. A system that works fairly frequently and either does not work (leaving you stranded) or (now and again) fails horribly.
Brian
|
|
|
|
|
omegaprime
Jun 1, 2006, 6:19 AM
Post #3 of 7
(2075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 308
|
Hmm.. nice reply rockguide. Maybe the mods can make a template of rockguide's reply and put is somewhere easily accessible, just so everyone don't have to waste time flaming or constructing a nice reply. All they have to do is cut and paste the reply, and change the necessary links/references whenever another question like this comes our way.
I'm not kidding.
|
|
|
|
|
porcelainsunset
Jun 1, 2006, 10:57 AM
Post #5 of 7
(2075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2005
Posts: 289
|
Troll Much?? Next.
|
|
|
|
|
heiko
Jun 1, 2006, 12:56 PM
Post #6 of 7
(2075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2005
Posts: 1505
|
In reply to: Hmm.. nice reply rockguide. Maybe the mods can make a template of rockguide's reply and put is somewhere easily accessible, just so everyone don't have to waste time flaming or constructing a nice reply. All they have to do is cut and paste the reply, and change the necessary links/references whenever another question like this comes our way. I'm not kidding.
pretty much effort for a reply to a troll. :roll:
|
|
|
|
|
sketch
Jun 5, 2006, 8:29 PM
Post #7 of 7
(2075 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 5, 2006
Posts: 32
|
Better to rappell off of the anchors rather than lower. At the Red River Gorge, we've experienced a lot of cases of wear on the anchors from climbers either: 1.) Top-roping through the anchors instead of thier own quickdraws or 2.) Lowering off with their rope running through the chains/quicklinks rather than rappelling off.
Rappelling off is better on the anchors because the rope is not sliding across the metal while under load. At the RRG, ropes pick up sand and can quickly (a over a year or two) abrade through even the toughest stainless steel anchors. The petzl method shows lowering through the anchors which would NOT be a good idea at the RRG. I can't speak for other areas because I haven't done bolt maintinence there.
Check out the picture below from redriverclimbing.com showing worn-out top-anchors:
http://www.redriverclimbing.com/..._pic.php?pic_id=2041
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
