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tradrenn
Jun 1, 2006, 12:50 AM
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8^)
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rgold
Jun 1, 2006, 1:30 AM
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Possible approaches:
1. Buy Grey Dick and do all the starred 5.9's. This will only cover the Trapps, however.
2. Go to the gunks.com routefinder, enter the 5.9 rating, check the "classics only" box, and sort the list by (Williams') stars or pro rating.
I wouldn't pay much attention to the Route Suggestions on GDC, it suffers from the same problem you'll find here, a lack of common standards for what makes a route good, people with limited experience praising mediocre routes, people with bizarre favorites that no one else thinks much of, etc. Sooner or later just about every route you might possibly consider gets mentioned in these threads, so the value of the assembled recommendations in distinguishing better and worse becomes negligible.
As for your questions,
Bonnie's Roof is an undeniable classic in anyone's book and is relatively easy for 5.9.
Apoplexy is a pleasant route, a bit run out low down, in a crowded area. Williams gives it two stars, which I think is generous.
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dudemanbu
Jun 1, 2006, 1:35 AM
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ants line, roseland, apoplexy, mf.
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granite_grrl
Jun 1, 2006, 1:55 AM
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In reply to: Bonnie's Roof is an undeniable classic in anyone's book and is relatively easy for 5.9.
Note - I got on the 5.9 variation second pitch which I found waaaayyyyy harder than the 5.9 first pitch. Could have been just me, but I don't thing so.
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curt
Jun 1, 2006, 1:57 AM
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I'll also give "two thumbs up" for Bonnie's Roof. Be sure to do the direct finish on the last pitch.
Curt
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fryinbacon
Jun 1, 2006, 2:37 AM
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If you feel like getting on the most crowded climb on the East Coast try out Directissima, a variation to High E.
I second that you should climb Apoplexy and Roseland... and buy the book.
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tradrenn
Jun 1, 2006, 2:50 AM
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8^)
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a_guy_named_smith
Jun 1, 2006, 3:40 AM
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ants line is very nice
mf
modern times is a great 8+
but really, just listen to that rgold guy
he knows a thing or two about the gunks
you can also do a search on gunks.com for more suggestions
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kriso9tails
Jun 1, 2006, 11:19 PM
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You've (tradrenn) seen the only nine I've been on at the Gunks, and you already know how that went (or rather didn't). I think I made the right call, but it was really just an issue of head space looking back on it. I'd like to do Le Teton before the end of summer so it doesn't bug me later that I backed off of it.
In reply to: modern times is a great 8+
I will never climb this again in the rain.
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blueeyedclimber
Jun 1, 2006, 11:41 PM
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Another vote for Bonnie's. It is on my list for this weekend (If I can get on it). I have only followed the direct finish and it was spectacular.
Also Ant's line. I led this last time and loved it.
A vote for Inverted Layback (although it's in the Nears) for a challenge. I thought it was hard for the grade, but then again, it's in the Gunks.
Josh
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tradrenn
Jun 2, 2006, 1:23 AM
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8^)
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chossmonkey
Jun 11, 2006, 1:00 AM
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If its the route I think it is, be careful not to get suckered into the harder 1st pitch finish. It is a bit harder and gets a little spicy, not good if you are only wanting a reasonable 5.9. :wink:
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chossmonkey
Jun 11, 2006, 1:03 AM
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Ooops :oops: Double Post
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tradrenn
Jun 11, 2006, 1:30 AM
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8^)
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lucander
Jun 11, 2006, 1:51 AM
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I have not done much 5.9 at the Gunks but MF has made every climb I've done go down one grade. I love this place.
David
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gunkiemike
Jun 11, 2006, 12:51 PM
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Bzzzt! that's a shot of the normal 2nd pitch of Bonnies Roof.
Which, as long as you've brought it up, is what *I* recommend to do the first time you're on it. It's exhilarating, photogenic, and fun. Then you get to do back and do the Direct Finish the next time. Two great experiences on one route.
If want "intro" 5.9's, do the first pitch of The Spring (you have to wait for that one, though. It's in the falcon closure area right now). CCK Direct is also soft technically IMO, but it has SO much great climbing. A link up of P1 of Erect D with CCK Direct is one of the best 5.8-9 lines in the Trapps,
Ant's Line is another good 9.
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gblauer
Moderator
Jun 11, 2006, 1:54 PM
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Big vote for Roseland and Bonnies
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gobotrocker
Jun 13, 2006, 12:45 AM
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I'd agree on Bonnies, especially the direct 2nd pitch, the start of Bonnies direct takes great gear, then start pulling...
As for M.F., that's a step up, I remember thinking, I'm only 8' off the ground and this things got teeth.
Directissima is cool too. You might want a confident 2nd though, the start of the 2nd pitch is scarier for the 2nd than the leader.
I've wondered about the anchor a the top of the 1st pitch of Dirrectissima\Doubleissima, Kinda wierd horizontal nut'z... Am I missing the obvious?
With a little luck I'll be in "Da Gunks" on Thursday
Good luck and have fun.
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tradrenn
Jun 13, 2006, 1:03 AM
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8^)
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socrate
Jun 13, 2006, 2:45 AM
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All are great, here are my favorites
Le Teton, Bonnie's Roof and Directissima (stay on the arête Sooo nice)
Have fun.
Good pro on all, short cruxes, great exposure!!!
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