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Building my aid rack, help me out
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weasel


Jun 4, 2006, 9:33 PM
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Building my aid rack, help me out
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Alright, so I'm getting into aid climbing and am planning to do a bunch of stuff locally this summer. I live pretty close to utah, so I'm guessing I'll be making trips to Zion whenever I can.

So assuming I'll be doing a lot of stuff in sandstone (like Zion or around Moab) I was wondering what direction I should expand my rack in.

What I've got is:
a set of Friends from 1 to 4
a set of Aliens from red to black
2 sets of nuts
a set of BD micronuts
a set of hexes
a set of angles (pitons)
a Talon, Cliffhanger and Grappling hook.

What I've got on order is:
a set of trango ballnutz
a set (or 2) of knifeblades
6 pika toucans (one of each size and bend direction)
3 peckers
a set of Metolius TCUs

I climb with someone who has a lot of larger cams, so I'm not entirely worried about spending money there right now.

I've never even done a pinning route before, but I figure I want to start kitting up seeing that no one I know has that type of stuff.

So, am I on the right track here? This is just what I've come up with after doing lots of reading. What kind of stuff am I going to find myself reaching for in Zion?

Thanks,
Eric

Edited: as per some suggestions


Partner tattooed_climber


Jun 4, 2006, 9:52 PM
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Re: Building my aid rack, help me out [In reply to]
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dude....there's like a million topics for "building an aid rack"

whats better...go to another website, a local climbing hole type, and ask for aid gear for your local rock.....

the granite i climb on is alot different than your rock

in regards to my granite and the chief ...ALL HAIL THE BFH (Big Fucking Hook!)..Ibis hook by Pika


vegastradguy


Jun 4, 2006, 9:53 PM
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goin to zion initially you'll be reaching for double cams...triples in some sizes. consider another set of friends or your choice of brand.

cam hooks you should leave on the deck- they destroy sandstone- especially the soft stuff found in Zion.
(although, if you're going to buy cam hooks, get leepers- i hear the pikas are junk except for the big one)

the TCU's are gold- you'll love 'em. consider another set or two.

heads, to my knowledge, dont work in sandstone.

oh, and HB offsets if you can get them- at least one set, maybe two. these were my first purchase for my aid rack- i now have 4 sets sitting around the house....along with two sets of hybrid aliens, another aid climbers staple.

while the big stuff isnt, i think, too mandatory for most Zion stuff, you'll probably be happy if you have something in the #4 camalot size (i think this is a #5 friend...but maybe not)....not for every route, but its enough to get you up most things. anything bigger than that and you can scrounge around.


weasel


Jun 4, 2006, 10:09 PM
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Thanks vegastradguy, that was all awesome beta.

I'm definitely looking at either a double set of the aliens or the TCU's but since I've never used the TCUs before I don't know what I'll choose. I love squeezing them in the shop though, and ever since they dropped the weight I've really wanted some.

And yes, I've been trying desperately to get some offsets but HB just went out of business! F*ck! I'll have some money set aside so as soon as DMM starts making them, I'll buy 2 or 3 sets.

Does anyone have any comments about my choice of beaks?

Thanks again!


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