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phlyfisher
Aug 27, 2002, 7:47 PM
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What is the biggest or scariest whipper you've ever taken?
Mine largest is probably 20-25 footer. I was trying to get a redpoint on a pumpy climb and skipped a clip and fell right before I sent the crux.
Climb on climba
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danl
Aug 27, 2002, 8:10 PM
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25' on to a blue alien. the lobes looked a little funny afterwards.
edit: Route: project X at the Gunks..the placement didn't get more text book
[ This Message was edited by: danl on 2002-08-27 14:02 ]
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rrrADAM
Aug 27, 2002, 8:17 PM
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Two 40+ footers...
1rst on 2nd Pitch of Kor Inglals on Castleton Tower on a yellow Allien.
2nd on Stoner's Boner at Mt Lemmon on a #9 BD Stopper placed sideways in patina.
Numerous smaller falls mainly on stoppers.
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espinosa
Aug 27, 2002, 8:58 PM
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30 footer on some old school slab route...just touched the ground with rope stretch.
close one.
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itsallvbtillyoufall
Aug 27, 2002, 9:07 PM
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When I messed up as a kid I go the whipper. About a 30 incher...
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newtocalgary
Aug 27, 2002, 9:38 PM
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on mount Yamniska i was about to clip a nut and had the rope in my mouth about to pull a bit more My ex GF thought i clipped and snugged the rope as i pulled up stripping me off the rock. This was pitch 5 of 9.
I took a 80foot plus screamer and when i arched back into the rock i tried to save the head and put hand out.
6 pieces pulled seeing the biggest piece i had in was a #1 hex (1986)
changed my climbing from 11's to 10's for years
Broken or sprained
4 fingers
thumb
wrist
elbow
shoulder
cheek
nose
left ankle
3 ribs
Ex couldnt lead and I had to lead 4 more pitches to escape and hike the 5 kms to the car
and folks thats why I can still call my self an old school climber
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camhead
Aug 27, 2002, 9:39 PM
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Biggest?
took about a thirty footer on a sport route. I had skipped the last clip, and was doing to high of a reach for the anchors, with lots of slack pulled out. Came within four feet of the ground, and I still have not gotten the frickin' redpoint of that route!
Scariest?
Only a 15-20 footer, but I pulled a piece, and was left hanging on a #3 stopper. Lew's stopper. Lew's very secure stopper.
[ This Message was edited by: camhead on 2002-08-27 21:21 ]
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iridesantacruz
Aug 28, 2002, 1:31 AM
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man newtocalgary has one hell of a story, man that sucks. But you got to exprience free fall for a little while without a plane but that had to of sucked..
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bluesky
Aug 28, 2002, 1:41 AM
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Funniest One (at least it was funny later): I'm pumped out of my gord staring at the anchors. My belayer asks if I'm at the anchors. I'm at the point where I can't let go with either hand, and reply yes but I can't clip and soon I doubt I'll be able to hang on. He hears 'yes blahburbleblah' and pays out slack and a few seconds later I pitch off for a clean 40 footer.
Scariest: When I was learning trad, I got on the wrong trad route about 6 letter grades harder than I've ever followed. Get three placements up and jam a yellow friend in a downward flaring crack just above me - don't ask why - I learned my lesson So when I pitch off and pull the piece and go for a 25 footer.
Runner up was my 25 foot sliding slab fall - ick.
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pelliott
Aug 28, 2002, 1:52 AM
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20 foot fall on a bolt, but the rope was behind my leg. I flipped upside down and hit my back and head on a ledge. I had blurry vision for a few hours and I was stupid for a few days afterward.
I forgot to mention. I did have my helmet on! Otherwise it would have been much worse.
[ This Message was edited by: pelliott on 2002-08-27 18:53 ]
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bluesky
Aug 28, 2002, 1:58 AM
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Hooray for helmets!
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daggerx
Aug 28, 2002, 2:02 AM
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about a 60+'s-er. In col. I was very lucky and did not break anything. But in the past wile highball bouldering it was not uncommon for me to take a 30+er.
DaggerX
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daggerx
Aug 28, 2002, 2:07 AM
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The scearest was about 10 years ago when I first started climbing. It was one of my first leads. I was cocky and skipped the first bolt and right befour the secound on I took a dive to the ground. I hit with so much force I kind of bounced up and rolled on over the hill. I broke a couple of ribs,and got beat up perty bad. I loved it, it just made me want to climb more then ever.
DaggerX
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spacemonkey
Aug 28, 2002, 2:08 AM
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I took my first lead fall today actually. I was about half way up the Manchester Bridge in Richmond, Virginia. Fell a total of probably 15 feet, but I had traveresed about some six or eight feet to the left of my last bolt, adding a good deal of swing to my fall. All in all, it wasn't that bad; I barely had time to curse
But man.... what a rush! I can't imagine what a 40 footer, or even an 80 footer must be like.
Peace!
Brian
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john1987
Aug 28, 2002, 2:09 AM
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I agree with blue sky. Helemets good internal head injuries bad.
John
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the_elk
Aug 28, 2002, 2:21 AM
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Scariest whipper I ever had:
I was leading an "exciting" little climb at Mt. Arapiles. The climb was called Aardvark. The first moves are described as bouldery.
It starts from a bit of a cave a couple of meters off the ground. As you stand on the rock in the cave the lip of the cave is at about belly button height I suppose, and the moves out are quite interesting, but you place gear as high as you can and trust you'll get up.. after I got up over the lip and placed another piece of gear I began to feel the pump, went for a move and ended up having a fall of a couple of meters, and while that isn't really very scary, the fact that if I hadn't have twisted myself sideways I would've belted my head against the lip of the cave and surely knocked myself out. As it was I almost felt like I could taste the rock as I flew into the cave.
After that I sat for a few minutes, composing myself, and then had another go and finished the climb... Lovely.
Cheers
Elk
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bouldertoad
Aug 28, 2002, 3:56 AM
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I took about a 25 footer on a sport climb in Wv. I was trying to onsight a 10d adn was at the anchors but extremely pumped. This area is known to have some runouts to the anchors so rather than try and clip I started to downclimb to a stance to rest a little bit. As I was down climbing my hands opened up and I took a good fall just missing a ledge halfway up the route. My belayer who is now my wife had some slack in her brake hand at the time and had a pretty bad rope burn so we were done for the day. Got the route next try though......
Maybe I am wrong but climbing helmets do not offer much protection on swinging falls into therock. They are more designed to help with falling rock.
[ This Message was edited by: bouldertoad on 2002-08-28 10:09 ]
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blindslap
Aug 28, 2002, 4:10 AM
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6 foot sliding fall through an offwidth, onto a super super i mean super tipped out cam. Miraculously it held. If it hadn't i would have taken a thirty footer, onto a ledge, then down some more.
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climbingcowboy
Aug 28, 2002, 6:39 AM
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I took a 25' on my own route Boltwaster 5.6, I was reaching for the anchor and my handhold broke fell into a really wide chimney it Sucked.
I took another 30' onto a number 4 bd nut at Bishops Peak, and it held I love that little nut it saved me from a bad fall. it scared the sh*t out o fme when I looked up and saw what caught me.
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cragchica
Aug 28, 2002, 7:01 AM
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I have yet to take a fall that could be considered a 'whipper' (knock on wood). My biggest lead fall was on a sport climb where I was just a few feet above my last bolt... the fall was quite anti-climactic.
I did however take quite a fall a couple weeks ago while bouldering. I was bouldering for some photos on a not-too-tough, but somewhat highball problem in the desert near my house. I had done the problem so many times for the sake of the camera that I guess I was getting complacent... one moment I felt totally secure and was about to top out and the next - total freefall. It was exhilerating until I realized that I was actually going to hit the ground. It was a 12 footer onto a rock (no pad)
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bluesky
Aug 28, 2002, 7:27 AM
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Cragchica: Ouch Scathed, unscathed? I've missed my pad before on that type-o fall, bruised heels. -Jesse
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fishypete
Aug 28, 2002, 8:13 AM
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Scariest:
6 ft fall, onto 1 foot ledge, creating 4 inch hole in side of leg with 2 inches of bone sticking out....
This was 4 pitches up a spire in Arizona. Retreating was not fun with the now very floppy leg wiggling around, grinding the bones into each other and lots of nice sensitive tissue.
And that was just the warm up for 1 year of work before I could walk without assistance.
But I did get a nice helicopter ride!
Yours in loathing ledges,
Fishy.
[ This Message was edited by: fishypete on 2002-08-28 01:14 ]
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cragchica
Aug 28, 2002, 5:13 PM
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bluesky,
At first I was just thrilled to have landed on my feet (and not my back, head or other vital part). However the shape of the rock was not exacty - 'ergonomic'. My foot hurt pretty frickin' bad for the next few days... I fell early in the morning and by that evening, I wasn't even able to walk to my bike to get home from work. I was very happy to know that I didn't break it, though it still hurts a bit now (over 2 weeks later).
Suffice it to say, I'm not going bouldering without a pad not matter how easy I think the problem is (that one, btw, I found out later, was V1).
-Andria
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carnaged
Aug 28, 2002, 5:23 PM
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Route: Lonely Boy (5.10d) At the Lonely Boy Crag
My Fall: Clipping the crux move and suddenly, WHAM! I'm 35 feet below the crx move, and my belayer went head first into the rock, and I wound up with a bruise on my knee the size of a hockey puck.
My belayer was just fine, no head injuries
Kat
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jumaringjeff
Aug 28, 2002, 6:13 PM
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Jesus Christ fishypete, I cringe just reading your post!! OUCH...
-jj
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