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spank_spank
Aug 28, 2002, 6:28 PM
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Ask Manboy about his whipper. Or should I say Decker.
I took a 40 footer from vertical to slab in Potrero. I think I crap my pants a little bit to.
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woodse
Aug 28, 2002, 6:38 PM
Post #27 of 64
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Registered: Sep 25, 2001
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Longest yet was a 30 footer. Mixed sport-trad lead in Moab, badly placed #1 camalot pulled, an old rusty piton caught me...2 feet from the ground! Damn I love flying!
woodsE
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rrrADAM
Aug 28, 2002, 6:48 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 1999
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Ask manboy...
You mean the one where Sonny Trotter dropped him ???
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atg200
Aug 28, 2002, 6:54 PM
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Mine was rope soloing an aid route on Devils Tower. Tried to do an A3 hammerless. I blew a camhook, and then blew a bunch of RPs and bronze offsets and went past a few other camhook placements before a #4 Bronze Offset caught me. I remember watching all the gear flying down the rope at me after I stopped. It was about a 40 footer, and my clove hitch system worked flawlessly.
My eyes were bugging out of my head while I prussiked back up to the offset(didn't want to use ascenders, and i didn't know about the gri-gri ascender yet). I placed a nest of about 5 and promptly bailed off. Spent the rest of the day shaking and drinking whiskey - nothing like having your first solo fall be your worst fall yet.
I also fell 35 feet and hit the ground in the Needles in South Dakota when a hold broke and I hadn't reached the first gear placement yet. That one hurt like a mother, but I walked away from it.
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zippera5
Aug 28, 2002, 7:18 PM
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40+ footer on something interresting in the Gunks. One piece pulled and the second held. luckilly! They were both kind of shitally placed. I had placed the 2 pieces and than caught an easy stretch of the climb. Than i got to a crux and i did not have any gear on me that could fit in! I tried with everything but could go no further. What happened next is still kind of a mystery to me. i've gotten most of my info. on the fall from others that were at the crag on that fateful day.
In my usual stupid condition i was not wearing a helmet either. I wound up cracking my skull and my 3rd vertibrea. I also left the living for a moment on the air-lift to the hospital. All this and i still diden't make the accidents in N.American book that comes out yearly.
This fall was a little over 3 years ago and still affects my life in varying ways. I have learned to wear a helmet from it! You can check it out on the gunks web site also, under leader falls.
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wigglestick
Aug 28, 2002, 7:33 PM
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I have been pretty lucky and haven't had too many major whippers while trad climbing or aid climbing. I have taken a few 20-25 footers but nothing to get excited about.
I fell while trying to make the third clip on a sport route and the only thing that stopped me from hitting the ground is catching the rope going from the belayer to the first bolt between my legs. Ouch.
I sprained my ankle pretty bad falling 5 feet on a boulder problem in Joes Valley.
While hiking to an area called Hoot Bluff in Iowa there was a log which spanned across a loose gulley. This log had held me and hundreds of other people thousands of time before but it broke while I was in the middle and sent me for a 50' cartwheeling tumble culminating in a dead stop against a tree with my back pack strangling me and all my friends laughing at me.
[ This Message was edited by: wigglestick on 2002-08-28 12:35 ]
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rockjock04
Aug 28, 2002, 9:34 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2001
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Do top rope falls count?
but seriously, I love the rush. It used to be that everytime we got to go climbing, we did this thing on top rope. I discovered this . As I got about half way up the 25' foot face, I told my belayer to stop taking the slack in the rope. So when I got near the top I told him to lock it off tight. Then I just let go. It maybe was only 10 feet but it was scary. Now I cant wait to lead climb
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rocknalaska
Aug 29, 2002, 5:27 PM
Post #33 of 64
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Registered: Jul 19, 2002
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Outside the biggest whipper I've taken was at the enchanted tower in new mexico about 45ft. Not really scary though, all I hit was air.
Scariest outside was a thirty footer down a slab in vedawoo, Wy. I hadn't even gotten to the first pro. Ended up bruising both heels pretty bad, but that's all.
Inside took a twenty foot flip after a hold spun and headfirsted into the wall, got knocked unconscious for a few minutes. Also got dropped inside from about twenty feet(another hold spun and I was clipping), straight onto my back. Couldn't breath for several minutes, almost blacked out because I couldn't breathe.
Most injurious was bouldering on the 45 degree wall in Heuco. I fell from the dyno, foot went between two pads and landed on the edge of a big rock and Cracked. I thought it was just bruised really bad and went on to send later. On the walk out I realized it was pretty bad, but I didn't think it was broken. When I woke up the next morning, my foot looked like a melon. Went to the Doctor, they x-rayed and found that I had broken it in seven places on two bones.
That's the best I have.
Todd
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sheppe
Aug 29, 2002, 6:36 PM
Post #34 of 64
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I've not had any huge whippers (I mustn't be climbing hard enough ), but I had a pretty painful one. I was leading Lil' Prana (a 10c) on the Heli-Pad at the Lonely Boy crags, in Kelowna BC, and I slipped while getting over the crux. As I fell, I got rotated and dropped about 15 ft. On the way down I hit, butt-first, an outjutting of stone. I kept on climbing for the rest of the day, but I couldn't move my leg too well. My butt cheak hurt for the next three days.
It kinda pales in comparison to some of these other injuries tho.
-Sheppe
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wonder1978
Aug 30, 2002, 12:14 AM
Post #35 of 64
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Registered: Aug 1, 2002
Posts: 250
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Scariest: I wanted to take a rest on a no2 friend placed in broken rock, as I weighted it down, the rock moved and the piece slid out, I plummeted down 15 feet towards my next pro: a sling around a bush as big as my index. As I was dangling at the end of the rope I could see the roots slowly ripping out. That bush was my only other pro. The fall would have led me 50 below the anchor and on a ledge that would have most probably killed me. I bailed out and never set foot on that route again.
cheers
Steve
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climbercam
Aug 30, 2002, 12:52 AM
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Registered: May 27, 2002
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20-35-50+
I had a 15-20 footer on natural pro in Joshua Tree much like Pelliot's in that I inadvertently got the rope caught behind my leg which flipped me on the way down. A little rope stretch but more importantly, my helmet saved me from severe brain damage and a long hospital stay. Bad rope burn and bruising, couldn't climb for weeks.
I had a freaky 35 footer on the egg wall in Little Cottonwood Canyon Utah, lost my balance right below the bolt and stopped BELOW my belayer. Freaked him out more than me. I finished it and his girlfriend voted us both off the island for being idiots.
I had a 50+ foot slider on a misdirected 5.11 variation to Grand Funk Railroad on Stone Mountain, NC. Ripped my hands & soles pretty good, stopping just 15 from the ground. A friend bandaged up my hands and I finished that one too - 600' of friction
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junkie
Aug 30, 2002, 4:44 PM
Post #37 of 64
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Registered: Aug 23, 2001
Posts: 100
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25-30 meter winger off a run-out-to-hell 12c slab in Australia. Fell right past my belayer (hanging belay). Unscathed but shaking quite violently afterwards.
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dovaka
Aug 31, 2002, 3:22 AM
Post #38 of 64
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Registered: Aug 6, 2001
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i took about a 30 footer when i was younger my belayer who i will never climb with again wasnt paying attention for about 2 seconds on a 60' top rope and the rope went right threw his figure 8 i landed on a slab of rock and shattered my wrist and now have 3 pins in it so it sucked at the time but i bet you couldnt break it again now
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rocknpowda
Sep 13, 2002, 10:21 PM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2002
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Prestidigitator (10a), Snow Canyon State Park, Southern Utah:
I was leading the second pitch, the crux fingercrack, and realized I only had one piece that would fit the crack well. I placed it, moved up a little, placed an old TCU (before they put any traction on the lobes) in a flare and pulled out the one I knew fit well to place it a little higher. Of course the shoe goo patching the hole in my shoe didn't friction as well as sticky rubber and next thing I knew I was off. I wasn't scared at first because the tcu was at my feet, then I felt a tug as the rope tightened up on that piece but then I kept right on going. I flipped upside down and was plummeting head first "superman" style toward the ground. I had an amazing amount of clarity and could pick out the exact spot my game would end. It was grassy but had sandstone boulders strewn about. Then as I was about to hit I jerked to a stop about twenty feet off the ground. The fall had factor of two because the only gear I had in pulled and I went right by my belayer and he caught me on his harness-I was dumb and hadn't even clipped the rope through the anchor he was tied to. All in all I went about 45 feet. I only had one little scrape, but my belayer had grooves burned deep into his hands and couldn't climb for a while. Thanks again Tyler for catching me on that one!
[ This Message was edited by: rocknpowda on 2002-09-13 15:49 ]
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unirock
Sep 13, 2002, 10:38 PM
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Registered: Sep 8, 2002
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My worse whipper was a 25 foot fall at Cedar Rock, North Carolina. Lot of run-outs in NC. I was 15 feet to the right of a #1 TCU and fell reaching for a jug. Luckily the TCU held or I'd have fallen 50+ feet. I sprained my ankle pretty bad nonetheless. That was 12 years ago.
All's well now.
-Uni
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whipper
Sep 13, 2002, 10:41 PM
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Registered: May 21, 2002
Posts: 241
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I took a 50+ footer onto a number 1 tcu (blue Trango) in the desert sand stone of Red Rocks. My next piece was a good 20 ft below that. After I got back up to the piece I saw that it had tracked about 6 inches before catching. It broke the spring on the cam but caught me. Oh what a great day.
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antimatter
Sep 16, 2002, 7:31 PM
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Registered: Feb 18, 2002
Posts: 140
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20' on Sundance at Suicide.
My partner didn't want to lead the pitch so (of course) I took the lead but I had not checked out the topo for the pitch. I made the traverse past the last bolt and wrongly thought I was supposed to climb up the dihedral instead of to the right. I got a #1 nut slotted in sideways at the base of the dihedral. After climbing up and getting totally pumped, I realized I was off route. I figured, "no problem, I've got that #1 to fall straight onto." Unfortunately, when I looked down, I saw it had popped out and slid right down to the bolt. I was too pumped to down climb and told my belayer that I was about to whip and then whipped. Actually, it was more of a slide on the slab. I banged the back of my foot somehow but it was only momentarily sore. After a minute I went right back to it, made the crux move, got on-route and then stupidly slipped and fell again. At that point we decided it was a good time to bail.
I wonder who's got that REI Oval now?
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sparky
Sep 16, 2002, 8:20 PM
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my first trad whip was freaky, i only fel about 6 feet tops but i was 200 feet up and i had never put weight on a piece o gear that high up, let alone fall on one, that number one hex held though, but i dlon't think i have the pants anymore, they got a little soggy
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lilred
Sep 16, 2002, 9:41 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2002
Posts: 1100
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...I took a whipper in Rifle Canyon about a week ago, and DAMN was I lucky.
It was on an absolutely HORRID route, ("Bumblebee")... I was warming up, and having a terible day....got to the anchors, my foot blew, and I missed the deck by TWO FEET...
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ccartier
Oct 3, 2009, 7:28 AM
Post #45 of 64
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Registered: Jun 1, 2009
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My biggest/scariest whipper happened today and i now have 7 staples in my head to prove it.
I was attempting to lead a very run out 10d. I got to the crux move at the roof and got the clip right before attempting to pull the roof. This was reassuring seeing how the last bolt was a good 15' below me. I got up over the roof and my feet were at the bolt. Now the way I was oriented made it so that I could not see the draw. Moments later I detached from the wall, expecting to have a pleasant, short fall to right below the roof. But instead I see the draw sliding down my rope and next thing I know im hanging 25' below gushing blood from the back of my head. The climb was in a corner so halfway through my fall, I hit the left side of the corner with my head before the rope caught me.
Few lessons learned today....
ALWAYS wear a helmet. I own a nice helmet and the one day i forget it I fall and split my head open.
Don't use other peoples gear without properly inspecting it first. Now I'm not saying that the gear was the total cause of the fall, I placed the draw with the gate facing the wrong way, allowing the bolt to open it... BUT the action on the bolt end of the draw was a little loose after inspecting it afterward. I feel that if i had used my draws, that have a stiffer gate action, this may have been avoided.
Someone was watching out for me today and Im just glad im able to type this post tonight.
Remember helmets are cool
-Chris
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gmggg
Oct 3, 2009, 12:08 PM
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ccartier wrote: My biggest/scariest whipper happened today and i now have 7 staples in my head to prove it. I was attempting to lead a very run out 10d. I got to the crux move at the roof and got the clip right before attempting to pull the roof. This was reassuring seeing how the last bolt was a good 15' below me. I got up over the roof and my feet were at the bolt. Now the way I was oriented made it so that I could not see the draw. Moments later I detached from the wall, expecting to have a pleasant, short fall to right below the roof. But instead I see the draw sliding down my rope and next thing I know im hanging 25' below gushing blood from the back of my head. The climb was in a corner so halfway through my fall, I hit the left side of the corner with my head before the rope caught me. Few lessons learned today.... ALWAYS wear a helmet. I own a nice helmet and the one day i forget it I fall and split my head open. Don't use other peoples gear without properly inspecting it first. Now I'm not saying that the gear was the total cause of the fall, I placed the draw with the gate facing the wrong way, allowing the bolt to open it... BUT the action on the bolt end of the draw was a little loose after inspecting it afterward. I feel that if i had used my draws, that have a stiffer gate action, this may have been avoided. Someone was watching out for me today and Im just glad im able to type this post tonight. Remember helmets are cool -Chris
Glad you're OK!
You might want to get checked for concussion though. You are replying to a 7 year old thread.
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socalclimber
Oct 3, 2009, 12:35 PM
Post #47 of 64
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Registered: Nov 27, 2001
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Well, my biggest was around 40 feet while aid climbing. It was a nice upside down, head first gear ripping screamer. Managed to break my ankle in the fall (not badly) and self rescue back to the base.
Loads of fun...
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j_ung
Oct 3, 2009, 3:09 PM
Post #48 of 64
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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I've a couple 30-35 footers, but they were both clean as a whistle. All my other falls have stopped shy of 20-25 feet. I guess I'm doing something right... 
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amigosandiego
Oct 3, 2009, 3:14 PM
Post #49 of 64
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Registered: Aug 20, 2003
Posts: 22
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Hello all and good morning. Just curious. Are we adding in our rope stretch to these numbers? Reminds me of the calculations of surf...California 10ft is considered 3ft Hawaiian.
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onarunning
Oct 3, 2009, 6:21 PM
Post #50 of 64
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Registered: Oct 14, 2007
Posts: 94
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Yesterday I was top roping in the gym, doing a little stemming action on two corners. One of my feet slipped and I hit my eyebrow on a hold.
It hurt a lot.
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