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dirtineye
Jun 9, 2006, 12:29 PM
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Footwork-- THE whole cataegory in hugely important.
But the most influential move is the ones that takes you toward the rock in the first place, to climb it.
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petsfed
Jun 9, 2006, 1:50 PM
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Definitely the drop knee. I use it more often than any other individual move, including the crimp. People say I look french.
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pyrosis
Jun 9, 2006, 1:50 PM
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The hand jam. No doubt.
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anomaly_pariah
Jun 9, 2006, 1:56 PM
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In reply to: Definitely the drop knee. I use it more often than any other individual move, including the crimp. People say I look french.
May I ask what the "drop knee" is?
Thx~
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angry
Jun 9, 2006, 1:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Definitely the drop knee. I use it more often than any other individual move, including the crimp. People say I look french. May I ask what the "drop knee" is? Thx~
It's what happens to your knees when you get too scared to climb a crack!
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rhythm164
Jun 9, 2006, 2:22 PM
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A drop knee is where you drop your knee. Jeez.
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pinktricam
Jun 9, 2006, 2:24 PM
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For me it was smearing. That and keeping my weight over my feet and my upper body away from the rock.
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dingus
Jun 9, 2006, 2:33 PM
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Using crack climbing footwork techniques in blank corners, wrinkles, and really, in some of the oddest situations. Watching my master toe jam a blank 5.11 corner after I'd wailed and pedaled on the smooth dihedral walls was an eye opening experience. I started watching his feet more closely and realized he applied these techniqies on most every move.
Face climbing, mantles, stems, etc, all seemed to come quite naturally to me. Crack climbing was slower, from a technique perspective. Lots of scabs as a result.
But experienced crack climbers, like advanced sport climbers, generally have very smart feet. Learning to use seemingly specialized foot placements from both disciplines in both environments, cross training if you will, was huge for this country boy.
LIke dirt said, the whole category of footwork.
DMT
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tradmanclimbs
Jun 9, 2006, 2:51 PM
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Most influentual technique for me was learning that it was ok to hang dog. We wrer stuck in the mode of thinking that we cold not lead anything harder than 5.6. then I got a mentor who taught me that it was ok to get on harder stuff and take short safe falls, work the moves and either finish victoriously or get spanked and bail. this opened up a whole new world that never would have been there had i stuck with the HANGDOGGING IS FOR PUSSYS crowd who never led anything harder than 5.6 and couldn't top rope harder than 5.9 :roll:
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bustaheel
Jun 9, 2006, 3:22 PM
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As of now, Smearing
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microbarn
Jun 9, 2006, 3:29 PM
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thought control
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ww
Jun 9, 2006, 3:38 PM
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Excuses
As in hungover, tendonitis, age, condition, memory (forgot my pack, can you carry this?), etc....
Apply liberally and often
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obnoxice
Jun 9, 2006, 3:43 PM
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All learned moves as a beginner had impact on my climbing but I should say the one technique that made the most impact on my climbing was learning how to flag properly. :D
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iclimbnova
Jun 9, 2006, 5:23 PM
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I would say both turning (flagging) and the drop-knee (egyptian) helped me move up about two grades. My favorite would have to be the drop-knee. http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=188
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ahwoo
Jun 9, 2006, 6:32 PM
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spending more time looking down to find the best foot placements
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sidepull
Jun 9, 2006, 6:46 PM
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In reply to: All learned moves as a beginner had impact on my climbing but I should say the one technique that made the most impact on my climbing was learning how to flag properly. :D
I'd agree - flagging made a huge difference in my early climbing.
Speaking of things "flag" - in the states we usually refer to the "Egyptian" as the really cool problem Sharma put up at Priest Draw for Lowell's Rampage. Drop knees are just drop knees. Although I think the Bangles would like us to call them Egyptians - maybe some climber/music producer will do a cool trance re-make.
Now I'm just babbling.
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keinangst
Jun 9, 2006, 6:51 PM
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This isn't really a "move", per se, but learning to stop looking UP for handholds and start look around, or even down.
That's a very rudimentary concept, but it's something I always share with beginners and it seems to make sense to them. You have to shake the notion that you need your hands above you to make upward progress.
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greengoblin
Jun 9, 2006, 7:41 PM
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Hand jams. Once you have the technique down, you can find them all over the place. And to quote Steph Davis, "A hand jam is like a belay."
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nthusiastj
Jun 9, 2006, 8:00 PM
Post #45 of 114
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In reply to: Definitely the drop knee. I use it more often than any other individual move, including the crimp. People say I look french.
Why hasn't anyone said turning? Do you all climb everything like a ladder. The drop knee is pretty key too.
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nikki_keasey
Jun 9, 2006, 8:00 PM
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Tying the figure 8.
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ao
Jun 9, 2006, 8:03 PM
Post #47 of 114
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Definitely the hand-foot match. I'm a shorty and discovered this one early on- it's my favorite move, has gotten me up sections of climbs that might otherwise have had me hangdogging, and has never failed me! Right now one of my weaknesses is overhangs, and I've found that making a conscious effort to keep my hips close to the wall is really making a difference.
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adrenaline_smack
Jun 9, 2006, 8:07 PM
Post #48 of 114
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Registered: Apr 6, 2005
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one arm campus dyno
i cant believe no one has said that yet
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kachoong
Jun 9, 2006, 8:14 PM
Post #49 of 114
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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smearing with trust
stemming
mantle
flagging
....in that order of discovery....
....trying not to place gear, clip the runner and clip the rope in one foul swoop.... resting and thinking.... it was a whole new paradigm....
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krusher4
Jun 9, 2006, 8:21 PM
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997
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The Windmill!!!!
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