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drunkenmonkey
Jun 12, 2006, 12:48 PM
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Registered: Mar 1, 2002
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Guys, I've been looking for a thread or picture I remember finding a few months ago which detailed a clever idea for speeding up aid climbing. It was a tied loop with a couple of hooks, cams and cam hooks on it. A version of each was clipped to each daisy thus enabling super fast upwards progress. I've searched but to no avail. Does anyone know what it's actually called and know where the thread is? cheers in advance DM
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j_ung
Jun 12, 2006, 1:25 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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Crack jumars! Ha! And I ain't even an aid climber. 8^)
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drunkenmonkey
Jun 12, 2006, 2:58 PM
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Thanks for the info guys. Final question: Has anyone used this in anger and how did they find it, personal exeriences anything they did diffferently. I'm thinking it will be a good way to speed up our ascent of Salathe. We're planning on doing it in three days but realise a lot of the standard methods will be slow so looking to get as many ideas as possible to speed things up. Cheers DM
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lambone
Jun 12, 2006, 3:52 PM
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Registered: May 1, 2003
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I use a couple of fatty auto-locking biners on my aiders and sometimes will leave a cam hook, or some offset aliens on each one, depending on the climbing. I don't think I'd want a tied loop because I like the option of leaving gear for pro if nescesary.
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yetanotherdave
Jun 13, 2006, 3:20 AM
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I use them on routes that are primarily aid - cam hook and a few TCUs on each one. It's nice to not have to deal with the rack for pieces that you'd backclean anyway If I had more $$ I'd leave larger offset aliens on them, but since I'm not they each get TCUs in sizes I use a lot and have lots of. For routes with only occasional aid I'd still leave cam hooks fixed on the aiders, unless I was sure I wouldn't use them. Having gear fixed on the aiders encourages backcleaning :) I use oval biners taped shut rather than lockers or tied slingage.
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