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zeke_sf
Jun 13, 2006, 4:17 AM
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I've been climbing for awhile, but I have only been sport climbing a little less than a year because of a three month break (a bad move, I know). I've been fairly comfortable on up to 5.10B, usually onsighting them, and 5.10Cs happen semi-regularly. I've recently red pointed a pumpy, slightly overhanging 5.10D (first one), and I've lead on several 5.11s up to 5.11B, but those were ugly to really ugly efforts. My goal is to become a solid mid 5.11B+ climber by the end of summer. As someone who is still getting over some of the head issues associated with leading, I'd like to know if I should focus on mileage or start focusing on some projects to push me over that 5.10 hurdle? The very hardest climb I've gotten up outdoors is a 5.11D (hangdog on TR). Indoor ratings probably vary too much as a point of reference. Am I just placing too much emphasis on 5.11? Why do the harder climbs look so much cooler?
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grk10vq
Jun 13, 2006, 4:19 AM
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quanity will lead to quality.
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overlord
Jun 13, 2006, 6:40 AM
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^^^^ ditto that.
try to climb as many DIFFERENT routes outdoor. that way youll get both your elad head and technique.
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majid_sabet
Jun 13, 2006, 7:57 AM
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I have a key chain saying
I AM 5.12 climber
why do not I send it to you now before you hurt your arm/fingers..... before summer doing all those hard moves
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kaczoron
Jun 13, 2006, 9:18 AM
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Where I climb most harder climbs look and often climb better because they often, but not always, follow bigger and nicer features on better rock at more impressive angles. ie Slabby sandstone sport routes are hardly ever inspiring, but a steep orange arette or scooped wall says climb me now!
I think you will find that at the moment milage will set you up for a better climbing career and will help with your head no end, its hard to learn to relax on the pointy end if you are continualy over gripping due to the moves being too hard.
Proficency, at this stage, is the key to sucess.Build your self a solid grade pyramid and you will be better for it. Untill you starting to climb the odd 12 you don't need to worry to much about training as technique and time on the rock will get you there, and have you more solid, than some muscle head who needs to wire every move harder than 11a because their technique is to the shit house and can't onsite for crap.
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shock
Jun 13, 2006, 9:50 AM
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In reply to: quanity will lead to quality.
Got a point there. When I started leading i'd go out and bag 5 easy trad leads a day, but now that i've gotten better and moved up the grades i'm happy to go out a do one quality lead in a day.
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fishbelly
Jun 13, 2006, 11:18 AM
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Find the grade you can consistently lead well in good style( what ever that is?) This grade should rise as your mileage does.
Pick your harder climbs intermittently and try to climb in the same style .
Throw in one every once in a while that's way harder and trash your selves.
I ve made the mistake of thinking higher numbers are better and thrashed my way up some routes.
If you work on quality mileage and challenge your selves in a consistent progression things start to come together,
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cjsimpso
Jun 13, 2006, 12:14 PM
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In reply to: Build your self a solid grade pyramid and you will be better for it.
(I'll assume you know better than to define Quality on difficulty alone)
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musicman1586
Jun 13, 2006, 1:22 PM
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In reply to: (I'll assume you know better than to define Quality on difficulty alone)
This is very true, a climb doesn't have to be hard to be enjoyable, one of the most favorite climbs I ever did was a 10a that still even after starting to climb 11's remains as one of my most favorite climbs because the line is just a great line, the features on the rock are just really kewl and unique, and it's a climb I'll never forget even if I start climbing 14's.
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zeke_sf
Jun 13, 2006, 2:34 PM
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This thread sort of confirms what I've been thinking. I probably need to get more climbs in the 5.10A-->D level, with the odd 5.11+ thrown in. The 5.11s I've done best on are the ones that by looks alone inspire me to climb them. The conundrum with mileage alone is that I won't usually fall on 5.10Bs, which then heightens my anxiety about falling. I start climbing more relaxed once I've taken a fall or two and that only happens on the harder climbs. Maybe I need to do the classic pyramid of climbing difficulty within my day so that I learn how to push on despite a chance of falling on the crux as well as gaining the endurance from easier stuff.
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cjsimpso
Jun 13, 2006, 2:51 PM
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In reply to: The conundrum with mileage alone is that I won't usually fall on 5.10Bs, which then heightens my anxiety about falling
As silly as it sometimes feels (and as hesitant as you might be...), there really is a lot to be said for taking controlled falls. I work in a gym at a University in Jersey, and I make it a regular part of my coaching to have people take falls. Most of the people I see in there - regardless of ability or experience - tend to tense up at times without ever realizing that a fear of falling is keeping them from climbing at their max. I usually encourage them to take a fall or two if they are struggling while working a project. As a result they are able to relax and climb more smoothly when they get back to it without that fear lurking in the back of their mind.
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fishbelly
Jun 13, 2006, 4:20 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: The conundrum with mileage alone is that I won't usually fall on 5.10Bs, which then heightens my anxiety about falling As silly as it sometimes feels (and as hesitant as you might be...), there really is a lot to be said for taking controlled falls. I work in a gym at a University in Jersey, and I make it a regular part of my coaching to have people take falls. Most of the people I see in there - regardless of ability or experience - tend to tense up at times without ever realizing that a fear of falling is keeping them from climbing at their max. I usually encourage them to take a fall or two if they are struggling while working a project. As a result they are able to relax and climb more smoothly when they get back to it without that fear lurking in the back of their mind.
Bumb it up to 10 D then 11s
Hopefully next year your will be trying to lead easy 13s like you do hard 11s
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zeke_sf
Jun 13, 2006, 6:02 PM
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Bumb it up to 10 D then 11s
Hopefully next year your will be trying to lead easy 13s like you do hard 11s
Hey, thanks for the encouragement :D. I'd LOVE to be in the position to even consider struggling up a 13.
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caughtinside
Jun 13, 2006, 6:54 PM
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If you've got a regular area that you go to, consider picking out something that you think is just beyond your ability as a project.
That is, if you usually climb 5.10, pick out a quality .11a or b. Spend most of your day on the .10s, with two burns or so on your project. When you redpoint that project, pick another.
If you're with a stronger climber, try to get them to hang the draws on your project.
Remember, it's sport climbing, there's no reason to onsite everything. If you try stuff that you think is too hard, you'll be amazed by what you find is possible (but don't blow up your elbows cranking.)
I'd also suggest that on routes where it's safe, never give the 'take' command. Just commit to doing the route, and take the fall if you can't do the moves.
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slablizard
Jun 13, 2006, 7:13 PM
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Hey Zach.
I guess the harder routes look "cooler" because they generally are on more compact and solid rock, with fewer holds and less "dirt" or loose rock. One good way to improve is to start working on something way above your head (at first) and get comfortable pulling on holds definitely smaller than before, or on steeper rock, you'll be surprised. Later going back on 10d or 11d will feel so much better. As for efficiency repeating a route you already know climbing "perfect" helps a lot learn how to climb as efficiently as possible. Last but not least neing comfotable with falls makes you willing to push "that" move more when you are pumped and (maybe) succeed in your project without having the risk of a fall stop you, or make you climb uncoordinated.
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zeke_sf
Jun 15, 2006, 5:49 AM
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I can see what you said about less "dirt" or loose rock. When you came by to say "hi" at G-wall when I was on that 5.10something, I could have dislodged a few rocks that would take down the belayer (and me, I guess). Your advice about efficiency is good. I've been doing that at the gym a lot with trying to climb with straighter arms, etc.. I've got to get over that hurdle of being OK to fall. I get there with a few falls, but it is much easier to say "ok" than it is to feel it. I think I just need to get wrapped up in the process of climbing more than I am the idea of "I climbed this 5.Whatever."
In reply to: Hey Zach. I guess the harder routes look "cooler" because they generally are on more compact and solid rock, with fewer holds and less "dirt" or loose rock. One good way to improve is to start working on something way above your head (at first) and get comfortable pulling on holds definitely smaller than before, or on steeper rock, you'll be surprised. Later going back on 10d or 11d will feel so much better. As for efficiency repeating a route you already know climbing "perfect" helps a lot learn how to climb as efficiently as possible. Last but not least neing comfotable with falls makes you willing to push "that" move more when you are pumped and (maybe) succeed in your project without having the risk of a fall stop you, or make you climb uncoordinated. |
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zeke_sf
Jun 15, 2006, 6:06 AM
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The responses I've gotten encapsulate a lot of good advice. A rare thing, really. Commital to the climb is a large asset for the climber, is what I gather. I'm sometimes so steeped in that "morbid" state of mind, that I forget I'm "sportclimbing." Sure, there are those 2nd bolt decking propositions, but most of sport climbing involves a rapid acceleration followed by giddyness. I just feel honored to put my monkey paws on these ancient relics everytime I go outdoors. Thanks again.
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