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natrajk
Jun 13, 2006, 10:15 AM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Hi!
What do you guys and girls think about using the new Mammut 8.9 Serenity rope as a half rope? It is a bit heavier than most half ropes, but it is also way stronger.
Is the extra weight worth the extra security, or should I just buy a regular half-rope?
regards
Kjartan, Norway
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sterlingjim
Jun 13, 2006, 1:17 PM
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If you don't mind the extra weight and the extra expense, probably around an extra $70.US per rope, they would be fine as half ropes. The sheath of these new breeds of super skinny ropes is thinner than ordinary ropes so overall durability may be a bit less than you would expect. The sheath is thinner because in the designing of these ropes there is a minimum amount of core necessary to survive the single rope drop tests. The only way to make the rope skinnier then and still pass the test is to thin out the sheath.
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natrajk
Jun 13, 2006, 1:50 PM
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Registered: Sep 27, 2004
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Thanks for the reply!
So what you're saying is that these ropes will be less durable than standard half-ropes also? If that is the case then I will definitively buy a regular half rope. I was actually hoping that the rope would be both stronger and more durable than a regular half rope.
Does anybody know how thick the sheath of this rope is compared to other half-ropes?
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angry
Jun 13, 2006, 2:14 PM
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The Beal Joker, at 9.1 is rated as a half, single, and twin.
As a half, I believe it's rated for 25 falls.
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sterlingjim
Jun 13, 2006, 2:20 PM
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My guess, and I say guess because I doubt Mammut will share the official information, is that the sheath is roughly 30% thinner than an ordinary rope.
Strength and durability are not really the same thing. The strength of a rope is mainly determined by the core while the durability is mainly determined by the sheath. Strength is not all that important of a feature of a climbing rope though. Personally I feel overall durability is most important. Others may argue that the fall rating, or the impact rating are most important, however, all those numbers are out the window after the rope has been used a few times so going for a durable rope has more value. This is, of course, dependent on the type of climbing you do; fast and light vs average recreational.
If you are the heavier climber you may still want to consider a half rope of a larger than average diameter. Something between 9mm and 8.6mm.
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wannabe
Jun 13, 2006, 5:48 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2004
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In reply to: The Beal Joker, at 9.1 is rated as a half, single, and twin. As a half, I believe it's rated for 25 falls.
I'm using two of the jokers as half ropes, works well for alpine and you can still lead on one as a single without worrying about strength.
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