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thespider
Jun 14, 2006, 4:06 PM
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Hello all,
I'm new to the indoor wall climbing setups and I was wondering if anyone made their own holds? I am thinking about starting to make my own rock holds. I was wondering what kind of rock is used and what size holes are the standards? I all ready know how I want to drill the holes and chip the rocks to shape, but I'm not sure of the size of the holes. Thanks!
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ctardi
Jun 14, 2006, 4:41 PM
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Holes are a little bit bigger than the bolts. ;)
Bolts are 3/8" So maybe 7/16 or 13/32...25/64...49/128...etc
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kovacs69
Jun 14, 2006, 5:33 PM
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I have plastic and some concrete holds on my wall. The concrete holds were made a long time ago by a friend of mine. He basically got some sand, put it in a box then dug out the design he wanted in a hold. He would put a washed and a dowel rod there the bolt would go then would just pour in the concrete. The holds are all different and are not the best but they work and are very orginal. It was an interesting way of doing things and worked well with biger holds.
JB
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thespider
Jun 14, 2006, 5:52 PM
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Wow, thats a great idea, I think I want to try it with real rocks, but I might try with concrete if that doesn't work. Thanks!
In reply to: I have plastic and some concrete holds on my wall. The concrete holds were made a long time ago by a friend of mine. He basically got some sand, put it in a box then dug out the design he wanted in a hold. He would put a washed and a dowel rod there the bolt would go then would just pour in the concrete. The holds are all different and are not the best but they work and are very orginal. It was an interesting way of doing things and worked well with biger holds. JB |
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thespider
Jun 18, 2006, 2:40 AM
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So I guess no one uses real rock on their rock wall. So my next question is would anyone consider using them?
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rockguide
Jun 18, 2006, 3:34 AM
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You are new ... your information and questions are vague. I assume that you are talking about a home bouldering wall.
Most people buy holds. Those that make holds typically use wood holds. Drilling rock to make real rock holds is time consuming, difficult, and takes specialized tools.
Making holds of concrete or resin is possible, but on the scale of most bouldering walls - the cost, set up and learning curve is prohibitive to running down to the store with your credit card.
Are you fishing for a business plan? Even the small companies could eat you for lunch. Climbing hold manufacturing is difficult, expensive, and takes beaucoup experience with indoor climbing. It ain't no lemonade stand.
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thespider
Jun 18, 2006, 3:44 AM
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In reply to: You are new ... your information and questions are vague. I assume that you are talking about a home bouldering wall. Most people buy holds. Those that make holds typically use wood holds. Drilling rock to make real rock holds is time consuming, difficult, and takes specialized tools. Making holds of concrete or resin is possible, but on the scale of most bouldering walls - the cost, set up and learning curve is prohibitive to running down to the store with your credit card. Are you fishing for a business plan? Even the small companies could eat you for lunch. Climbing hold manufacturing is difficult, expensive, and takes beaucoup experience with indoor climbing. It ain't no lemonade stand.
Yeah, I'm talking about home bouldering/climbing wall. I understand it is difficult and expensive, but if there is a market, why not take advantage of it? I can have a business plan created in a few months free of charge, but I am mainly interested for myself. I understand there are places to buy products exactly like this, but I don't think that I would infringe on their business. As for the learning curve, I'm quick to pass it with a little ingenuity. Thanks for your comments.
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rockguide
Jun 18, 2006, 5:11 AM
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I am looking forward to your successful business proving me wrong. Please post your company name when it rolls forward.
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thespider
Jun 27, 2006, 2:30 PM
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Hey all,
Well I have tried my first rock hold. Worked well drilling into the rock and then countersinking the hole. Everything seemed to work ok. I tried the rock in my basement wall (just screwed into a stud) and tried to put some weight on it. Well, after I put my full weight on, it cracked in half, right down the middle. My guess is the rock was not the right type for a rock hold. I am not a geologist and I have no idea what kind of rock it was. But live and learn! I will try again with a different type of rock, hopefully with better luck.
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oldrnotboldr
Jun 27, 2006, 2:56 PM
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Ihave a combination of holds on my wall. Some manufactured holds, some hard wood manufactured, and mostly drilled rock. The rock holds were time consuming and beat the crap out of the drill bits. But I think most people who have used my wall like the real rock better. I did have quite a few break while drilling and bolting them up. I Have switched and use an epoxy like Super Mend and bolt them up as well. The problem with that is that you can't move them around. The hard wood and manufactured I have are location adjustable so I do have variations I can make.
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thespider
Jun 27, 2006, 3:45 PM
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Yeah, I like real rock over manufactured holds any day. I will just have to keep drilling till I get enough rocks to make my wall, I guess a few breaking is not a big deal to me. And I can buy a few drill bits, thats easy enough. thanks for the info and experience!
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climbing123
Jun 27, 2006, 4:44 PM
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Spider, if you get those holds to start working I am curious to know what your procedure for making them is. I have been thinking of making a wall at home and the hold are really expensive, also I like the challenge of doing something new. Even though it would probably be just as much to buy some I wouldnt mind experimenting with the procedure. Also, I think natural rock holds would help keep my hands "conditioned" for outdoor use. I cant go climbing outdoors every week and when I finally do my hands get all cracked and cut up because they arent used to the natural and sharp surfaces of real rock. Does anyone know how to keep that up? That should be in another forum I am sure.
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thespider
Jul 6, 2006, 1:37 AM
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Hey All, Climbing hold update.
I tried to make a small hold out of a rock of sandstone, at least thats what I thin it was. I need to identify it. Anyway, I drilled it out, and countersunk it with a masonry bit, simple & cheap one. Drilling was easy and quick, thanks to the soft rock. I drilled it into a stud and tried to put weight on it. It broke in half right where the hole was drilled. So no good for first attempt. I will be looking for harder rocks and possible a better drill bit. I am still confident that I can get the holds working. More updates to come.
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sidepull
Jul 6, 2006, 1:46 AM
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I would think that most people that use a woodie in a systematic way would not want real rock holds simply because: a) it's harder to make tendon friendly shapes and b) it's impossible to make a system board or provide any sort of symmetry so that you can train. You're far better off making sweet wood holds both as a business and for your own personal training (particularly because you're so adept at dancing down the learning curve).
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