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flatstateclimber
Jun 16, 2006, 6:39 AM
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Registered: Aug 21, 2005
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Hey all---
Wasn't quite sure which forum to put this in, but here goes. I was at LRC last week, and according to my topo from Triple Crown, I think I sent Clutch (apparently a V5). I'm sincerely doubting my climbing and topo-reading ability since I've only ever sent one V4, and it put up much more of a fight than this one. Generally, it's near Dragon Lady, Tri-Star, Celestial Mechanics, Warm-Up Arete. It's not on any of those boulders, but in the near vicinity. Here's a picture of it. Perhaps a local or someone who knows the area better could help me identify it.
http://i36.photobucket.com/...climber/100_1406.jpg
Thanks!
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egonogo
Jun 16, 2006, 3:27 PM
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im not a local, in fact I've never been to LRC. However it could be that that route is sandbaged. I don't mean to offend the creator of the route its just a possibility.
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egonogo
Jun 16, 2006, 11:31 PM
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yeah that is the meaning of sandbagged. When I thought about it it didn't make sense but I couldn't come up with the best wording.
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timhinck
Jun 21, 2006, 1:48 PM
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I'm not certain about the names and ratings on this particular boulder, but i think that if you traverse this face from right to left and end with the dyno up to the top, it's probably v5. feels about that to me.
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flatstateclimber
Jun 21, 2006, 3:10 PM
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In the topo that I have for LRC from Triple Crown, there is a traverse that goes left to right that it says goes at a V6 (don't have any clue, a bit out of my reach for now). The V5 in question says, "Start on small crimps. Climb the blunt prow." Or something like that. It's apparently a sit start to a V3, one V5 move, then a V3. Not much different that Incredarete (V1) and Incredarete SDS (V3), also at LRC.
I guess my issue is that this would be solid proof in my book that ratings are bunk, highly subjective, and in the case of LRC, quite soft. At HP40, Adam Henry would've downgraded this to a V1 by now!
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timhinck
Jun 27, 2006, 7:39 AM
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hmmm, i don't know. i'd say that the classics at LRC compare to the consolidated SouthEast ratings. CelestialMechanics (aka barndoor) is standard LRC v7, and that seems to compare to hp40. 'Spanky' at v8, 'BlindSpot' to v7/8. Cleopatra and Cinderella. Tri-star is the standard v3 and I think that compares to any v3 at hp40. all in all, i'd say that i think grades in the SE are pretty consolidated, but i do notice a huge regional difference (colorado, to newengland, to cali, to hueco, etc)
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rjtrials
Jul 12, 2006, 10:29 PM
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In reply to: Hey all--- Wasn't quite sure which forum to put this in, but here goes. I was at LRC last week, and according to my topo from Triple Crown, I think I sent Clutch (apparently a V5). I'm sincerely doubting my climbing and topo-reading ability since I've only ever sent one V4, and it put up much more of a fight than this one. Generally, it's near Dragon Lady, Tri-Star, Celestial Mechanics, Warm-Up Arete. It's not on any of those boulders, but in the near vicinity. Here's a picture of it. Perhaps a local or someone who knows the area better could help me identify it. http://i36.photobucket.com/...climber/100_1406.jpg Thanks!
The problem you climbed is actually not in the topo.
If you start on the huge chalked jugs just to the right and dyno to the top (the big ball-looking hold) it is called "trailer hitch" V5.
Clutch is on exactly the opposite arete as the one pictured. Walk 180 degrees around the bolder and voila! You are there.
RJ
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