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fulton
Jul 3, 2006, 5:43 PM
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Registered: Feb 26, 2004
Posts: 210
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Question for ya'll aid-gurus - about sleeve bolts... Habit forces me to 'inspect' each bolt I clip... but... On a recent trip to City of Rocks I noticed that just about every bolt I clipped was a) a sleeve bolt, and b) the hex-heads had traveled about an 1/8 of an inch from their (presumably) snug-to-the-rock original position. It makes sense to me that any bolt might 'slip' a little and that the 'slip' seems less obvious on wedge bolts as there is a nut that can be tightened down... Still, I'm a little befuddled as what to make of the observation that *every* sleeve bolt had traveled a bit - something that I've seen before but never as prevalently/consistently as in the City of Rocks. Peace
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kovacs69
Jul 3, 2006, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Jun 16, 2005
Posts: 607
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In reply to: Question for ya'll aid-gurus - about sleeve bolts... Habit forces me to 'inspect' each bolt I clip... but... On a recent trip to City of Rocks I noticed that just about every bolt I clipped was a) a sleeve bolt, and b) the hex-heads had traveled about an 1/8 of an inch from their (presumably) snug-to-the-rock original position. It makes sense to me that any bolt might 'slip' a little and that the 'slip' seems less obvious on wedge bolts as there is a nut that can be tightened down... Still, I'm a little befuddled as what to make of the observation that *every* sleeve bolt had traveled a bit - something that I've seen before but never as prevalently/consistently as in the City of Rocks. Peace You know when I was up at the City last month I noticed that on almost every route I climbed the nuts on the anchor bolts were loose. I made the comment to my partner that I was going to have to start carrying a wrench with me when we climbed at the city. I noticed this at Castle Rocks too. Is this usually the case in the City and at Castle? JB
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billcoe_
Jul 6, 2006, 6:32 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
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I think a loose sleeve bolt has a signifigantly higher chance of total failure than a wedge anchor. In either case, tensile strength should drop dramatically even if the bolt were to hold a fall. You might consider either replacing the whole thing with a wedge anchor, or use of Loctite or a Esna nylon insert lock nut. If you can't find esna nuts, but want to replace nuts with them, let me know the size, material (steel-zinc plate or Stainless) and your address and I'll send you some if you pay freight. Probably 3/8-16 steel.
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