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c22
Jul 3, 2006, 11:29 PM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2004
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Yes, I know this belongs in comp climbing, but i hoped it'd get at least a little air time before it was sent off to die...
My question is, what sort of rational is behind the scoring of routes at bouldering competitions, I've been to many of them now and I still don't really get it.
Yes the points go up with the difficulty and you lose points for falls, okay, fine. But how do you decide if the route should be 240pts or 60pts or 20,000pts?
If anyone here has organized a competition before it would be really helpful if you could tell me if you used a sort of algorithm or what when deciding on point values for routes.
Thanks,
-Dan
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sidepull
Jul 4, 2006, 12:43 AM
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Registered: Sep 11, 2001
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points are inversely related to . . .
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philbox
Moderator
Jul 4, 2006, 6:40 AM
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philbox moved this thread from General to Competition Climbing.
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philbox
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Jul 4, 2006, 6:48 AM
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And just so you get some sort of sensible answer. I am associated with the SCA which is the competition climbing body responsible for all indoor gym competitions in Australia.
The scoring is as follows.
All routes are set such that the top hold has a score of 20 points. A competitor must control the top hold, we determine control by way of the competitor having both hands on it for a minimum of 2 seconds. Holding the hold with one hand comfortably and slapping the hold with the other hand does not constitute control.
The holds are counted down from the top like this, 20, 19, 18 etc. If a competitor holds 18 and moves off it then the score is 18+. If they slap the next hold then it is 19-. Thus one can start to seperate the competitors by way of fractions.
This scoring system holds for all levels of competitor category. We try to set climbs such that most will get off the ground at least with the difficulty of the climb rising for distance travelled up the wall. We set climbs for the lower age brackets such that the wide variety of body types i/e long and short share a relatively equal chance of making it up the wall, this is extremely difficult around puberty age kids as some of them really take off whilst others lag in growth and power.
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mcgivney_nh
Jul 4, 2006, 11:13 AM
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The last comp I went to scored boulder problems as follows:
V0 100 points
V1 200 points
V2 300 points
and so on.
also, if a problem was something like a V2+ it would be 340 points and a V3- would be 360 points. While some of the problems had plus or minus ratings, most were just even hundreds.
-Sean
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