Here's a great technique that hasn't been mentioned. It doesn't require extra gear and the climber (cleaner) is always backed up.

The first one up clips the anchors with 24" runners instead of draws. When the last person cleans the pitch she leaves the last draw in place, unclips her rope and clips in the rope that goes down to the belayer. At the anchors, unclip one of the runners from the rope and clip it to the belay loop of your harness. Then do the same with the next. Now do whatever it is you're going to do with the rope (I prefer to thread a bight of rope through the lowering points, tie a figure 8 and clip that into my belay loop with a locker. Then I yell "TAKE", check to see that the system works and that my belayer actually has me, then untie my knot.) and lower off. Clean the last draw as you go past it.

I like this system because:
- you never go off belay
- you're always into at least two independent anchors
- 24" runners allow you a natural position away from the rock to do you thing.
- the only change is gear is to have the leader clip the anchors with 24" runners instead of draws.
- no need to run daisys

While I'm on the subject, I've seen a couple of habits more and more at the sport crags that have killed people.

#1 - When you clip the anchors at the top and are about to clean them DO NOT call down "off", "off belay" or, the current favorite, "I'm in straight". Unless you're setting up a rappel, telling your belayer that you're off can only result in bad stuff happening. It only tells the belayer that she can take you off and that's killed people.

#2 - When you're ready to lower, regardless of weather you've just cleaned the anchors or clipped them, grab the end of the rope that heads to the belayer. It's a really, really simple back up so if the belayer has spaced you'll still be able to hold yourself. Right after that, look down at her and confirm visually that you're actually on belay and she's ready to lower you. It scares the hell out of me to see climbers get to the top, toss the rope through the hooks or chains and just let go without even a glance down to confirm that they're on belay. Too many people have hit the deck from that move.

Climb safe,
Mal

Anybody ever use these?

http://images.rei.com/media/693968Prd.jpg

Anyone who uses a method different from rockprodigy=Gumby
Arrogant, know-it-alls like rockprodigy=extremely undesirable climbing partners
Whether I'm sport or trad climbing I always have a Metolius PAS girth hitched through my leg and waist tie in point and equipped with a locking biner and always use at least one quickdraw to back it up. I also always have a autoblock backup girth hitched to my leg loop and equipped with a small locking biner. I have enough self esteem to not care what others think of my safety considerations and enough good sense not to climb with the rockprodigy types.

A PAS and an autoblock with lockers don't make sport climbing any safer. They just add weight and bulk, which makes climbing at your limit harder. Thus non-gumby sport climbers don't carry this junk around on their harness.

The autoblock backup I always use when rappeling whether from a multipitch trad climb or a 3 bolt sport climb. Isn't using a backup when rappeling safer than not?

Of course the ones on here who just blow smoke up your ass think that NOBODY has as much expirence or knowledge as them. So they're stuck starting flame wars on web forums. Calling everybody "Gumby" and "N00b", and feeling sorry for themselves that they have nobody to climb with.

Usually. Being lowered by a partner is safer still, especially with a grigri, and it's faster. Gumbies worry about wear on the anchors, rather than considering them to be consumable goods, and using them as intended.

Jay

Jay, for the record no one (save you) mentioned concern about wear on the anchors as a reason for rappeling vs lowering.

[..]

I feel good about not putting extra wear on the anchor and my rope sure doesn't complain either.

redrocker