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tattooed_climber
Jul 10, 2006, 4:49 PM
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matt maddaloni has finally finished the first Squamish Aid Guidebook 23 Topos of long aid routes up the chief....plus a CD of high-res pics and of the topos for printing http://www.mattmaddaloni.com/...%20Walls%20guide.htm 15 bucks canadian making it the cheapest guide book i'll soon to own GOOD ON YA MATT!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :P
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peas
Jul 10, 2006, 8:03 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
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Right on! Any idea on whether it will be available through non-mail order?
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tattooed_climber
Jul 11, 2006, 3:57 AM
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according to matt, its also at Climb-On in squamish
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yetanotherdave
Jul 16, 2006, 3:38 AM
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just picked mine up at climb on - it's low-budget, but quite well done. approach beta is a bit thin in spots, but the topos are great and you get a PDF version so you can print pages rather than carry/trash your guidebook.
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peas
Jul 17, 2006, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Mar 30, 2002
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I just got mine too, and it looks pretty good, with a couple notable omissions. Edge of Pan and Expect Minor Falcon Delays didn't make it in. The guidebook states that it's a work in progress, so maybe they'll be included in the future. Nice to have some focus back on aid climbing though.
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mattmaddaloni
Sep 16, 2006, 9:32 PM
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Edge of Pan does not exist as a aid route anymore. mostly free. also there are peregrin closure details for routes that lie within the closed area. mm out aid climbing yet?
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yetanotherdave
Sep 20, 2006, 2:07 PM
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I converted the PDF pages into .png files that I can set as my PC wallpaper - I can absorb route beta all day now while I work! Currently set to Ten Years After, this weekend's project. Thanks Matt!
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peas
Sep 28, 2006, 11:23 PM
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In reply to: out aid climbing yet? Yeah. Yetanotherdave and I did 10 Years After this past weekend. We did it pretty much clean, although I tapped a cam hook on p8, but didn't get an improved placement out of it. There was a bunch of fixed pins that were helpful though. We had a couple comments on your guidebook info. You mention that belay 6 and 8 have bomber bolts. Belay 6 has 1 bomber bolt, 1 rusty but o.k. looking bolt, and a few bad ones. Belay 8 is a bomber gear belay. We didn't find any bolts there.
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