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devils_advocate
Jul 13, 2006, 8:14 PM
Post #1 of 26
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Registered: May 18, 2006
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This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, it’s just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but that’s all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me it’s a 12c... it’s a couple grades past what I’ve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured – what’s the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever. The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided it’s safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldn’t seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I don’t blame him, I’m sure this isn’t a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, I’m learning. The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. There’s a couple hard moves I just can’t pull off and have to cheat my way through; it’s not like I’m blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave. I didn’t have to leave any gear and didn’t get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but I’m not here to impress anyone. I’m here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isn’t that the point?
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jt512
Jul 13, 2006, 8:20 PM
Post #2 of 26
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Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
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In reply to: This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, it’s just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but that’s all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me it’s a 12c... it’s a couple grades past what I’ve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured – what’s the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever. The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided it’s safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldn’t seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I don’t blame him, I’m sure this isn’t a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, I’m learning. The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. There’s a couple hard moves I just can’t pull off and have to cheat my way through; it’s not like I’m blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave. I didn’t have to leave any gear and didn’t get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but I’m not here to impress anyone. I’m here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isn’t that the point? Since there is no way I can collect $1 from every reader over whose head this will go, I'll just have to settle for givng the post a trophy. Jay
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dingus
Jul 13, 2006, 8:20 PM
Post #3 of 26
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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Hah! More Filthy Climbers! Or is that wealthy climbers? I can't keep it all straight anymore! DMT
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dingus
Jul 13, 2006, 8:26 PM
Post #4 of 26
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 17398
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And btw, you are an excellent advocate dude. I'm sure your boss is happy with your work. I free lance for him from time to time but he says I am way too inconssitent. Cheers counselor. DMT
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caughtinside
Jul 13, 2006, 8:41 PM
Post #5 of 26
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Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
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Now who is it that I am supposed to despise? The n00bs, elitists, or the richies? Doggers or topropers? Stick clippers or hard men?
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c4c
Jul 13, 2006, 8:53 PM
Post #6 of 26
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Registered: Jun 18, 2006
Posts: 1279
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Well played. Well played. :lol:
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sbaclimber
Jul 13, 2006, 9:08 PM
Post #7 of 26
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
Posts: 3118
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You had me, until "so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three", d'oh :o Brilliant! (Edit, I just found the original thread......I thought you were joking :shock: )
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curtis_g
Jul 13, 2006, 10:14 PM
Post #8 of 26
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Registered: Nov 21, 2005
Posts: 594
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wow...just, wow. I'm happy to have been stumbling onto this thread series. very funny.
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jmeizis
Jul 13, 2006, 11:43 PM
Post #10 of 26
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Registered: Apr 25, 2006
Posts: 635
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Maybe when you couldn't do any of the moves in the first ten feet you should have perhaps tried a different route to which your skills may be better applied, unless of course you had some ulterior motive for getting to the top of the climb.
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djoseph
Jul 13, 2006, 11:49 PM
Post #11 of 26
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Registered: Apr 7, 2004
Posts: 197
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Very clever. 8^) Though some of us who came late to the party were confused about who was spoofing whom...now it's clear. Dan
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climbsomething
Jul 13, 2006, 11:53 PM
Post #12 of 26
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Registered: May 30, 2002
Posts: 8588
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In reply to: This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, it’s just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but that’s all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me it’s a 12c... it’s a couple grades past what I’ve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured – what’s the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever. The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided it’s safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldn’t seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I don’t blame him, I’m sure this isn’t a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, I’m learning. The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. There’s a couple hard moves I just can’t pull off and have to cheat my way through; it’s not like I’m blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave. I didn’t have to leave any gear and didn’t get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but I’m not here to impress anyone. I’m here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isn’t that the point? Did your mom take a photo of you dogging?
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nthusiastj
Jul 14, 2006, 12:06 AM
Post #13 of 26
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Registered: Sep 3, 2002
Posts: 1994
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In reply to: Well played. Well played. :lol: I second that.
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overlord
Jul 14, 2006, 6:28 AM
Post #14 of 26
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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In reply to: Very clever. 8^) Though some of us who came late to the party were confused about who was spoofing whom...now it's clear. Dan thats easy, this guy is from SoCal and the incident took place in iowa. hardl hes 'local' crag. plus, this was posted 2h15min after the original post. kudos for the attempt though. almost had me.
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superbum
Jul 14, 2006, 6:45 AM
Post #15 of 26
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Registered: Sep 19, 2002
Posts: 822
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Yep...go for it. Try it. Go ahead. Just realize that you did it in worst possible style and don't lie about it...so far so good. Sounds like you have a new project?? How good will you feel when you go back to that pice of stone in a year and send it clean and casual?!? To be fair, if I was there, (on the ground) I would have scoffed like your viewers did. (Haven't you ever scoffed at someone GRIPPED on 5.8??) but would have felt guilty later. It is not "wrong" to practice climb, but you gotta admit to the practicing aspect, which it sounds like you are...hmmmm. I'm drunk by the way. Free Budweiser (yuck!) keg at the Rocking K in Bishop makes for late nioght typing sessions on rc.com...gotta go to bed.. PS: I just did a 5.5 A0 ridge traverse yesterday...very pissed about the aid, but unavoidable in order to avoid injury. ok. I'm done. :idea: :?: :arrow: :wink: :!: :?
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omegaprime
Jul 14, 2006, 9:49 AM
Post #16 of 26
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Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 308
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Dang, I just used up all my trophy for the day!! Nice one. :D
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whitribj
Jul 14, 2006, 11:30 AM
Post #17 of 26
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Registered: Jun 16, 2006
Posts: 145
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I'm so glad I can rate today! I was definitely fooled for a bit.
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anykineclimb
Jul 14, 2006, 2:28 PM
Post #18 of 26
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Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
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good stuff. but "whats the point??"
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paulbehee
Jul 14, 2006, 3:07 PM
Post #19 of 26
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Registered: Jun 10, 2006
Posts: 88
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hey I like the story! has anyone heard of Aid climbing? so it wasn't a clean redpoint, or even a freeclimb! But he worked hard to get to the top; sounds like a good personal goal to me, and a damned motivated climber!
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double
Jul 14, 2006, 4:12 PM
Post #20 of 26
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Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 136
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Jay, you are $4 richer.
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jakomait
Sep 13, 2006, 3:18 PM
Post #21 of 26
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
Posts: 24
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I almost gave up a dollar too. Clever of you for creating the other side of the story. I have climbed that way too because you'll never know if you can't unless you try.
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saxfiend
Sep 13, 2006, 3:40 PM
Post #22 of 26
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
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Heh heh, nice to see this back on the front page, I'd forgotten all about it. :lol: Plus, I have trophies today! JL
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krusher4
Sep 20, 2006, 7:11 PM
Post #23 of 26
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Registered: Nov 17, 2005
Posts: 997
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In reply to: Yep...go for it. Try it. Go ahead. Just realize that you did it in worst possible style and don't lie about it...so far so good. Sounds like you have a new project?? How good will you feel when you go back to that pice of stone in a year and send it clean and casual?!? To be fair, if I was there, (on the ground) I would have scoffed like your viewers did. (Haven't you ever scoffed at someone GRIPPED on 5.8??) but would have felt guilty later. It is not "wrong" to practice climb, but you gotta admit to the practicing aspect, which it sounds like you are...hmmmm. I'm drunk by the way. Free Budweiser (yuck!) keg at the Rocking K in Bishop makes for late nioght typing sessions on rc.com...gotta go to bed.. PS: I just did a 5.5 A0 ridge traverse yesterday...very pissed about the aid, but unavoidable in order to avoid injury. ok. I'm done. :idea: :?: :arrow: :wink: :!: :? You nailed it! Right on.
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coyoteblastin
Sep 22, 2006, 1:27 PM
Post #24 of 26
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Registered: Feb 21, 2005
Posts: 28
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If you just climbed routes that you know you can climb then I would think you would never get better. I always jump on routes I think I can't do and sometimes I'm surprised at just how far I get before I fall. That's how my projects always start out. Got to get out of the comfort zone sometimes.
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j_ung
Sep 22, 2006, 3:02 PM
Post #25 of 26
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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2 more dollarinos. :lol:
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