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Am I wrong to try something out of my league?
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devils_advocate


Jul 13, 2006, 1:14 PM
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Am I wrong to try something out of my league?
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This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, itís just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but thatís all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me itís a 12c... itís a couple grades past what Iíve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured Ė whatís the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever.

The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided itís safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldnít seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I donít blame him, Iím sure this isnít a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, Iím learning.

The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. Thereís a couple hard moves I just canít pull off and have to cheat my way through; itís not like Iím blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave.

I didnít have to leave any gear and didnít get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but Iím not here to impress anyone. Iím here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isnít that the point?


jt512


Jul 13, 2006, 1:20 PM
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This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, itís just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but thatís all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me itís a 12c... itís a couple grades past what Iíve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured Ė whatís the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever.

The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided itís safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldnít seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I donít blame him, Iím sure this isnít a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, Iím learning.

The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. Thereís a couple hard moves I just canít pull off and have to cheat my way through; itís not like Iím blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave.

I didnít have to leave any gear and didnít get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but Iím not here to impress anyone. Iím here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isnít that the point?

Since there is no way I can collect $1 from every reader over whose head this will go, I'll just have to settle for givng the post a trophy.

Jay


dingus


Jul 13, 2006, 1:20 PM
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Hah! More Filthy Climbers! Or is that wealthy climbers? I can't keep it all straight anymore!

DMT


dingus


Jul 13, 2006, 1:26 PM
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And btw, you are an excellent advocate dude. I'm sure your boss is happy with your work. I free lance for him from time to time but he says I am way too inconssitent.

Cheers counselor.

DMT


caughtinside


Jul 13, 2006, 1:41 PM
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Now who is it that I am supposed to despise? The n00bs, elitists, or the richies? Doggers or topropers? Stick clippers or hard men?


c4c


Jul 13, 2006, 1:53 PM
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Well played. Well played. :lol:


sbaclimber


Jul 13, 2006, 2:08 PM
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You had me, until "so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three", d'oh :o

Brilliant!

(Edit, I just found the original thread......I thought you were joking :shock: )


curtis_g


Jul 13, 2006, 3:14 PM
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wow...just, wow. I'm happy to have been stumbling onto this thread series.
very funny.


hoofers_andy


Jul 13, 2006, 4:22 PM
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sounds like you are friends with the guy who wrote this post: http://www.rockclimbing.com/topic/116253

oh, and if you can't scend, stay home :wink:


jmeizis


Jul 13, 2006, 4:43 PM
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Maybe when you couldn't do any of the moves in the first ten feet you should have perhaps tried a different route to which your skills may be better applied, unless of course you had some ulterior motive for getting to the top of the climb.


djoseph


Jul 13, 2006, 4:49 PM
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Very clever. 8^) Though some of us who came late to the party were confused about who was spoofing whom...now it's clear.

Dan


climbsomething


Jul 13, 2006, 4:53 PM
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In reply to:
This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, itís just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but thatís all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me itís a 12c... itís a couple grades past what Iíve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured Ė whatís the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever.

The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided itís safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldnít seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I donít blame him, Iím sure this isnít a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, Iím learning.

The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. Thereís a couple hard moves I just canít pull off and have to cheat my way through; itís not like Iím blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave.

I didnít have to leave any gear and didnít get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but Iím not here to impress anyone. Iím here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isnít that the point?
Did your mom take a photo of you dogging?


nthusiastj


Jul 13, 2006, 5:06 PM
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Well played. Well played. :lol:

I second that.


overlord


Jul 13, 2006, 11:28 PM
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Very clever. 8^) Though some of us who came late to the party were confused about who was spoofing whom...now it's clear.

Dan

thats easy, this guy is from SoCal and the incident took place in iowa. hardl hes 'local' crag. plus, this was posted 2h15min after the original post.

kudos for the attempt though. almost had me.


superbum


Jul 13, 2006, 11:45 PM
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Yep...go for it. Try it. Go ahead. Just realize that you did it in worst possible style and don't lie about it...so far so good. Sounds like you have a new project?? How good will you feel when you go back to that pice of stone in a year and send it clean and casual?!? To be fair, if I was there, (on the ground) I would have scoffed like your viewers did. (Haven't you ever scoffed at someone GRIPPED on 5.8??) but would have felt guilty later.

It is not "wrong" to practice climb, but you gotta admit to the practicing aspect, which it sounds like you are...hmmmm.

I'm drunk by the way. Free Budweiser (yuck!) keg at the Rocking K in Bishop makes for late nioght typing sessions on rc.com...gotta go to bed..

PS: I just did a 5.5 A0 ridge traverse yesterday...very pissed about the aid, but unavoidable in order to avoid injury.

ok.

I'm done. :idea: :?: :arrow: :wink: :!: :?


omegaprime


Jul 14, 2006, 2:49 AM
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Dang, I just used up all my trophy for the day!!
Nice one. :D


whitribj


Jul 14, 2006, 4:30 AM
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I'm so glad I can rate today! I was definitely fooled for a bit.


anykineclimb


Jul 14, 2006, 7:28 AM
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good stuff.

but "whats the point??"


paulbehee


Jul 14, 2006, 8:07 AM
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hey I like the story! has anyone heard of Aid climbing? so it wasn't a clean redpoint, or even a freeclimb! But he worked hard to get to the top; sounds like a good personal goal to me, and a damned motivated climber!


double


Jul 14, 2006, 9:12 AM
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Jay, you are $4 richer.


jakomait


Sep 13, 2006, 8:18 AM
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I almost gave up a dollar too. Clever of you for creating the other side of the story. I have climbed that way too because you'll never know if you can't unless you try.


saxfiend


Sep 13, 2006, 8:40 AM
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Heh heh, nice to see this back on the front page, I'd forgotten all about it. :lol:

Plus, I have trophies today!

JL


krusher4


Sep 20, 2006, 12:11 PM
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In reply to:
Yep...go for it. Try it. Go ahead. Just realize that you did it in worst possible style and don't lie about it...so far so good. Sounds like you have a new project?? How good will you feel when you go back to that pice of stone in a year and send it clean and casual?!? To be fair, if I was there, (on the ground) I would have scoffed like your viewers did. (Haven't you ever scoffed at someone GRIPPED on 5.8??) but would have felt guilty later.

It is not "wrong" to practice climb, but you gotta admit to the practicing aspect, which it sounds like you are...hmmmm.

I'm drunk by the way. Free Budweiser (yuck!) keg at the Rocking K in Bishop makes for late nioght typing sessions on rc.com...gotta go to bed..

PS: I just did a 5.5 A0 ridge traverse yesterday...very pissed about the aid, but unavoidable in order to avoid injury.

ok.

I'm done. :idea: :?: :arrow: :wink: :!: :?


You nailed it! Right on.


coyoteblastin


Sep 22, 2006, 6:27 AM
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If you just climbed routes that you know you can climb then I would think you would never get better. I always jump on routes I think I can't do and sometimes I'm surprised at just how far I get before I fall. That's how my projects always start out. Got to get out of the comfort zone sometimes.


Partner j_ung


Sep 22, 2006, 8:02 AM
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2 more dollarinos. :lol:

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