This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, it’s just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but that’s all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me it’s a 12c... it’s a couple grades past what I’ve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured – what’s the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever.

The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided it’s safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldn’t seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I don’t blame him, I’m sure this isn’t a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, I’m learning.

The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. There’s a couple hard moves I just can’t pull off and have to cheat my way through; it’s not like I’m blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave.

I didn’t have to leave any gear and didn’t get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but I’m not here to impress anyone. I’m here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isn’t that the point?

This last weekend I went to one of our local crags here in Iowa. Nothing special, it’s just a 40-60 foot rock, with less than spectacular view from the top, but that’s all I have to work with so I take what I can get. I see two guys at the base of a route, so I figure there must be something worth checking out and head over. I ask one of them if they are getting ready to climb it, they say no, so I decide to give it ago. The guy informs me it’s a 12c... it’s a couple grades past what I’ve sent clean, but I was feeling strong that day and it was a well bolted route so I figured – what’s the worst that can happen, these two guys watching me get a good laugh? Whatever.

The first move was hard, I fell a couple times, so I decided it’s safest to stick-clip the first bolt. In a display of ugly desperate climbing I get up past the first bolt, certainly taking my fair share of falls, but I manage to get number two clipped in. There was a nasty mono past that that I just couldn’t seem to do static and I was a bit worried to fall on my finger, so I swallow my pride and stick-clip number three. In the midst of one of my many rests I notice one of the bystanders gets bored and wanders off... I don’t blame him, I’m sure this isn’t a very interesting show. His friend seems to be getting a kick out of watching me struggle. Whatever, I’m learning.

The rest of the route goes similar to the first 20 feet. There’s a couple hard moves I just can’t pull off and have to cheat my way through; it’s not like I’m blowing a redpoint anyway, might as well finish. I scratch and dog my way to the top but finally make it. I lower off, we pack up our stuff and head out. The bystander scoffs at me as I leave.

I didn’t have to leave any gear and didn’t get hurt, so I chalk it up as a learning experience. Certainly not one of my prouder moments, but I’m not here to impress anyone. I’m here to learn, improve, and have some fun in the process. Isn’t that the point?

Well played. Well played. :lol:

Very clever. 8^) Though some of us who came late to the party were confused about who was spoofing whom...now it's clear.

Dan

Yep...go for it. Try it. Go ahead. Just realize that you did it in worst possible style and don't lie about it...so far so good. Sounds like you have a new project?? How good will you feel when you go back to that pice of stone in a year and send it clean and casual?!? To be fair, if I was there, (on the ground) I would have scoffed like your viewers did. (Haven't you ever scoffed at someone GRIPPED on 5.8??) but would have felt guilty later.

It is not "wrong" to practice climb, but you gotta admit to the practicing aspect, which it sounds like you are...hmmmm.

I'm drunk by the way. Free Budweiser (yuck!) keg at the Rocking K in Bishop makes for late nioght typing sessions on rc.com...gotta go to bed..

PS: I just did a 5.5 A0 ridge traverse yesterday...very pissed about the aid, but unavoidable in order to avoid injury.

ok.

I'm done. :idea: :?: :arrow: :wink: :!: :?