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ter_bee
Jul 7, 2006, 2:32 AM
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icky/frightening photos notwithstanding, i really wish this thread/group existed when i lived in connecticut. where WERE you all? i wanted to learn but had no partners.
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dr_feelgood
Jul 8, 2006, 9:38 PM
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So anyhow... I'm not in connecticut now. Nor will I be for about a year. I'm in one rockless hell, and going to another semi-rockless, texan infested hell for a period of one year. But after that, I should be back in CT in august of 07. And my CT partner and friend probably won't have the same weekday schedule I will, so I'll be looking for partners for that. I used to climb 5.10-, leading sport 5.9s and trad 5.8s Not a huge boulderer(too fat), but i'll be willing, and especially eager after a year in Iraq and a few months in Texas. So keep me in mind, I'm sure I'll be posting here again.
-Jeff
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devkrev
Jul 10, 2006, 12:05 PM
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This week I get outta work on Wednesday and Thursday at 2:00.
If anyone is up for climbing in the afternoon, shoot me a PM.
dev
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feedmerocks
Jul 10, 2006, 5:11 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: icky/frightening photos notwithstanding... My mom says I'm hansome dev
What a coincidence. Yer mom says I'm handsome, too ;)
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ter_bee
Jul 10, 2006, 6:07 PM
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hee hee.
still, you're both bastards for not starting this thread in 2000.
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devkrev
Jul 11, 2006, 12:05 PM
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In reply to: hee hee. still, you're both bastards for not starting this thread in 2000.
I would have, but at the time I had never climbed on real rock north of the equator.
dev
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big_red
Jul 12, 2006, 4:49 PM
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Headed back to Alaska
Hey just wanted to say thanks to everyone on here for their help while I've been here in CT. I'm heading back to Alaska in about 20 minutes but thought I'd give one final farewell.
Drop me a line if anyone is ever heading up north...
-Ben
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devkrev
Jul 13, 2006, 10:31 PM
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See you later Ben, its been fun, hope you had a good trip
on another note yall
I am the new manager for the CT region of the Routes Database, so if anyone has anything they would like to see changed, lemme know. I already cleaned up a bunch of the duplicate listings, but if I missed any, bring them to my attention.
later
dev
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kmsmoguls
Jul 14, 2006, 2:22 PM
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I am from Mass and a few friends and I are taking a trip to Ragged Mtn tomorrow and was wondering if anyone had some suggestions for routes. I trad up to about 5.7-5.8. I have read Rock Climibng New England and see that a lot of the FA are old. I know from experience at Cathedral, Whitehorse and other places that old FA mean the routes are harder than their grade. Is this true here also? Thanks for your help.
Erik
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feedmerocks
Jul 14, 2006, 4:39 PM
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Word on the street is that Connecticut traprock climbing is pretty sandbagged. Have fun and be safe!
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devkrev
Jul 14, 2006, 5:57 PM
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In reply to: Word on the street is that Connecticut traprock climbing is pretty sandbagged. Have fun and be safe!
Its not sandbagged, everywhere else is just soft :wink:
kms,
The thing that gets alot of people at ragged is that most the of routes are pretty steep, mostly dead vertical and a few are slightly overhanging. You have to spend time looking for your stances for gear by stemming out on corners and/or hanging from straight arms. If you don't, slowly but surely you will pump out.
The OTHER thing about traprock, is that you tend to have ALOT of options. Options for feet, for hands, for gear. Its all about figuring out the sequence that is easiest for the route. Onsighting stuff here is mostly hanging out and figuring the right sequence, or powering through the most obvious yet harder one. The thing that gets alot of folks here its that you are constantly changing between face climbing and crack climbing techniques, and it makes your head hurt if you aren't used to it.
I'm not sure what guidebook you have, but an awesome route for you to start on is Wet Wall(5.6) its dead on for the grade at Ragged, and you get into the business of the route right off the ground, but it easies up a bit higher.
Someother routes that are awesome in the 5.7-5.8 range are:
Cementery Vault 5.7
Owls Perch 5.7+ (tricky)
Marlinspike 5.8+
Vector (5.8+ but not sustained)
Tower Crack (5.7 but bring your offwidthiness)
Wiessner Crack (5.8 sustained)
Some other fun routes that you may want to try first to get a feel for the area too are Wiessner Slab 5.3 May Way 5.5, Main Street 5.4 (short 5.8 start if you want), Ancient Way 5.4, and Knights Move 5.4(be careful to protect the move off the block)
One climb that looks enticing is Carey Corner (5.7) be careful, the moves are tough to find, or else its closer to a 5.9, but bomber gear the whole way.
Some awesome routes that you can TR if you want (or lead if you like runouts off the ground)_ are YMC and Broadway, you can get both off the same rope with minor adjustment.
um...thats all I can think of off the top of my head.
anyone else have anything to add?
dev
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jacobs
Jul 15, 2006, 2:54 PM
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also hemlock groove 5.5 ,vanishing gutter 5.6 and green gutter 5.5
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kmsmoguls
Jul 16, 2006, 12:34 AM
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Hey everyone. Thanks for the great advice. I just got back and I had a great time. I lead a few of your guys recommendations and I followed Weissner Crack (I think 5.8+) It was challenging but a lot of fun. I don't think I would feel too comfortable on lead. Well thanks again and if anyone is visiting the Boston area and want to climb just let me know.
Erik
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devkrev
Jul 16, 2006, 12:11 PM
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In reply to: Hey everyone. Thanks for the great advice. I just got back and I had a great time. I lead a few of your guys recommendations and I followed Weissner Crack (I think 5.8+) It was challenging but a lot of fun. I don't think I would feel too comfortable on lead. Well thanks again and if anyone is visiting the Boston area and want to climb just let me know. Erik
I'm glad you had a good time, don't worry, its took me a LONG time to get comfortable leading at Ragged, and I'm pretty sure now I'm not comfortable with it as much as "dealing with the discomfort"
dev
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lagarita
Jul 22, 2006, 2:09 PM
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Is anyone available to climb this Wednesday at ragged or make the trip up to the gunks? The weather looks so so for latter in the week. I may be able to go Tuesday, but I'm not sure at this time.
Sean
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mountainman
Jul 23, 2006, 1:01 AM
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Hi,
Climbing Gunks or Traps week of July 24-28. Looking for a partner. Many years experience.
Call 412 736 0896 and ask for Doyle.
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syc007
Jul 24, 2006, 8:49 PM
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Hi Guys and gals-
Have not posted in a while. Got sucked into work and side projects. Now that it's calming down a bit, is anyone rock climbing at Pinnacle? Looking for someone who doesn't mind a newbie.
Sandra
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visitorfromjapan
Jul 25, 2006, 11:09 PM
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Hi there. Are you still climbing in CT? I will visit my friends in Wallingford in August, 2006. If you feel like climbing with a stranger, please let me know. Regards.
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mountainman
Jul 26, 2006, 12:39 AM
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Anyone see John Peterson around? Rumor has it he's in CT for the summer. Tell him to PM me ASAP while I'm still around.
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rockscaler2
Jul 27, 2006, 12:23 AM
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Pulled down some sick stone up at Chatfield Hollow a few weeks ago!!! :lol: It's like a little outdoor gym lol!! Loved it!! A friend brought me there during the winter to check it out and I really enjoyed it. :D
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mountainman
Jul 27, 2006, 1:24 AM
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Groovy Scott from Springfield and I had a monster day.
He did a redpoint of Thor's Hammer! Just following it was sick. Felt nauseated doing the traverse. What a burly route!
Then over to Cathole Pass, TR'd Pegasus, the face to the right on the same rope, then Mindbender with Chad Hussey.
I was dehydrated and trashed. What a mega day in this heat!
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devkrev
Jul 28, 2006, 12:01 PM
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I have tuesday, wednesday and thursday off next week, if anyone is down for climbing in CT or heading over to the gunks.
dev
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lagarita
Jul 28, 2006, 12:37 PM
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Hey all, is there anyone out there who needs a partner for Sunday? Pinnacle, Ragged even the Gunks, I'm not picky I just want to get out and climb....
Thanks,
Sean
P.S. I can't lead, but I'll follow and clean.
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mountainman
Jul 29, 2006, 11:22 AM
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Another great day on CT rock.
Who needs to spend $15 at the Gunks when you have Ragged?
Just climbing Kerry's Corner, Broadway, YMC and Knight's Gambit and escaping before torrential downpoars is a full and satisfying day.
I hope you all appreciate how good you've got it, all that traprock to frolic on.
Anyway, Tuesday or Wednesday I need someone to climb with, then back to the home rock.
call Doyle 412 736 0896. or PM.
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