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markd


Aug 31, 2002, 1:17 AM
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Looking to get a list going of "must do crack climbs." Only post routes you've climbed at least on TR.

So what are they? I'll say,

Mayflower, Paradise Forks

Waterslip Down, Paradise Forks

Moby Dick Center, Yosemite

Atman, Red Rocks

Autumn, Red River Gorge



[ This Message was edited by: markd on 2002-08-31 01:22 ]


michaelmay513


Aug 31, 2002, 4:43 AM
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Crack of Doom 5.11c, City Of Rocks Idaho. Its a boulder problem start to finger tips to fist to off fist. 90ft long.


whipper


Aug 31, 2002, 7:18 AM
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AS far as single pitch goes:
Wine and Roses(11 a) at Freemont Canyon
Heart and Soul(10) at J-Tree
And go to Indian Creek


crackaddict


Aug 31, 2002, 9:55 AM
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Markd you have some of my favs on there.

Oh so many.

I have to say,

Fingers in a light socket 5.12a-11d, Indian Creek

Incredible Handcrack 5.10c, Indian Creek

The Crack House, Moab UT

Atman 5.10, Red Rocks

Moby Dick Center 5.10, Yosemite

Outer Limits 5.10, Yosemite

Davidsons Dihedral 5.11d, Paridise Forks

Paridise Lost 5.12, Paridise Forks

The Prow 5.11, Paridise Forks

Waterslipdown 5.10, Paridise Forks

Just to name a few.



Partner phylp


Aug 31, 2002, 10:23 AM
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I can't believe Moby Dick Center made this list twice! I found it so painful...





climbsomething


Aug 31, 2002, 11:07 AM
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(all at Indian Creek:)

Incredible Hand Crack, 5.10c
Fingers in a Light Socket, 5.11d/5.12a
Supercrack, 5.10a

Not like I didn't get spanked pretty hard on these routes, but they were very crack-a-licious indeed...

hehe, this thread woulda been incomplete without crackaddict!


beyond_gravity


Aug 31, 2002, 11:31 AM
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Burger and Fries (5.7) at Squamish


jer


Aug 31, 2002, 2:28 PM
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Perfect Fingers/joshua tree 5.10
Illusion Dweller/Joshua Tree 5.10
Cloud Tower/Red Rocks 5.11
Crimson Chrysalis/Red Rocks 5.8
Desert Reality/Red Rocks 5.11
Abracadaver/Cochise Stronghold 5.11
Vertigo/Eldorado 5.11
Bastille/Eldorado 5.7
Arkansas Reality/Sams' Throne 5.11
Alive and Awake/Arkansas 5.10
Silver Spider/Arkansas 5.11
Missoureality/Trappers, Missouri 5.10
Satans Corner/little cottonwood 5.8
Country Club Crack/Boulder cyn. 5.11
Athletes feat/Boulder Cyn. 5.11
Straw Turkey/Turkey Rock 5.10
Vanishing Point/Turkey rock 5.11
Casual Route/RMNP 5.9


apollodorus


Aug 31, 2002, 2:33 PM
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I can't believe nobody's said this yet: Bishop's Terrace in Yosemite. One long pitch, 5.8, up double cracks. The best of the best.

Central Pillar of Frenzy, Middle Cathedral in Yosemite. Four or five pitches up to 5.9. The worst pitch is the munge chimney at the bottom. The climb gets better and better as you go up.

Reed's Direct in Yosemite. One long pitch. The upper part has no rests for the hands, and it goes slightly OW at the top.

Sacherer Cracker on El Capitan. One pitch. 5.10 thin at the bottom, then gets wider and wider and wider until a gigantic cam is the only thing that will protect the top OW section.


stevematthys


Aug 31, 2002, 4:46 PM
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my favorite crack route would have to be Reggae of Eldorado Canyon


bigwalling


Aug 31, 2002, 5:22 PM
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Steel Monkey(12a) at Index. Still haven't made it to the top while on the lead or top rope. Bring a bunch of small pro. Maybe a few black aliens and #00 tcu's if you want to protect the bottom.


uncle_big_green


Aug 31, 2002, 9:43 PM
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Jer, you're fairly well travelled.

I know that there are 1000s of others that I haven't done, but here are some good ones that I have done:

Whimsical Dreams, S. Platte
Dungeon, S. Platte
Drumstick Direct, S. Platte
Too Much Crack, S. Platte
Wunch's Dihedral, S. Platte (last P isn't, but most of the climb is crack)
Center Route, S. Platte

Crack Attack, Red River Gorge
Inhibitor, RRG

Corn Flake Crack, Looking Glass, NC

Any recommended route at Paradise Forks, AZ

The Fox, Red Rocks

Conads, Lumpy Ridge

La Classica, secret crag (woody wall 2) in TN

Climb and Punishment, Vedauwoo
Kim, Vedauwoo

Agony, Seneca

* Note, I'm trying to list good climbs that mainly require crack technique. Other places that really don't require this technique, but offer high quality crack protected climbs are Eldo and T-Wall. There are good climbs at these places that do require crack technique such as Golden Locks (TW) and Blind Faith (Eldo), but everyone knows of them and they're still not the cream of the crop.

* Indian Creek is omitted for obvious reasons.



markd


Aug 31, 2002, 9:48 PM
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Nobody else has any favorite crack climbs?
A few more.......

Orange Out Direct, The Overlook, Arizona

Isaiah, The Overlook, Arizona

Middle Trinity, The Overlook, Arizona

2nd pitch Coyote Tower, Sedona

Dreamscape, Carver, Oregon

Peach Cling, Broughton, Oregon

Jamcrack, Yosemite

Outer Space, Leavenworth, Washington




[ This Message was edited by: markd on 2002-08-31 22:04 ]


apollodorus


Aug 31, 2002, 9:54 PM
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Try this for a semi-urban workout before taking on the Real Rock:

http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=ListPhoto&PhotoID=5369"

[ This Message was edited by: apollodorus on 2002-08-31 21:54 ]


markd


Aug 31, 2002, 10:00 PM
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Nice picture Tom, did you climb the offwidth using those nice cams you made?



[ This Message was edited by: markd on 2002-08-31 22:01 ]


sickofla


Aug 31, 2002, 10:29 PM
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did anyone mention thin ice? or anything at the needles?


benfieldj


Sep 1, 2002, 5:57 AM
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Left Wall Dinas Cromlech North Wales 5.10c
Harpoon Ship Rock NC 5.10a
Golden Earring Moores Wall NC 5.7


Partner dondiego


Sep 1, 2002, 6:11 AM
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Jaws 5.9 - New River Gorge

There is a reason that it's named Jaws, it chews off your fingers but it's one of my all-time favorites.

-Don Diego-


natec


Sep 1, 2002, 9:02 AM
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Horton's Tree
New Yosemite
Jaws --- New River Gorge

Bishops Terrace
Jamcrack
Harry Daily Route
Chouinard Crack
Grant's Crack
Pot Belly
After 7
Pee Pee Pillar----Yosemite

The last pitch of Cat in the Hat---Red Rocks

The Burn---Seneca


topher


Sep 1, 2002, 9:19 AM
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penny lane squamish,
levis creest creek,
crazy chnuck comox lake
there all esier trad, climbs but there all clasics.


tylerphillips


Sep 1, 2002, 10:11 AM
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I'd agree with Bishops Terrace and would have to add the Second pitch of the Travlers Buttress (lover leap) as well. And any of the upper headwall pitches on Moonlight Buttress.( Not that I have sent a red-point try on upper moonlight)


Partner phylp


Sep 1, 2002, 11:59 AM
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Markd-
It's not that we can't think of must-do crack routes, it's just that there are so many of them that the question is near impossible. I can think of at least 40 must do pitches in the Valley alone (and I've not been on anything harder than 11+ so I'm sure my list would be lacking).
If I had to pick the ONE most perfect pitch I've done in the Valley I guess I would say the perfect 5.10 pitch on Hotline.
I asked my hubby what he would say to this question and he said - lot's on Lumpy Ridge in CO and lots on Cannon Cliff in NH.
Phyl


markd


Sep 2, 2002, 1:46 PM
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I realize there is many quality cracks, this thread is simply to point out peoples favorites.


bluesky


Sep 2, 2002, 3:55 PM
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Outer Space - Icicle Creek Wall - WA
Godzilla / City Park P2 / Slow Children - Index
Spiderman and Zebra-Zion and Badfinger- Smith
Kor's Flake and George's Tree - Lumpy
Climb and Punishment and Spectreman - Vedauwoo


atg200


Sep 2, 2002, 4:10 PM
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1. Kor's Flake and White Whale at Lumpy Ridge
2. Everything at Turkey Rocks in the South Platte
3. Everything at Indian Creek
4. P1 North Chimney Castleton Tower
5. Everything at Devils Tower(my favs are Assembly Line, Soler, Walt Bailey, TAD, One Way Sunset, and Tulgey Wood)
6. Classic Crack, Gods Own Drunk, Nick of Time in the BH Needles

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