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timpanogos
Sep 1, 2002, 6:10 PM
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Registered: May 17, 2002
Posts: 935
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It's been a great summer - having just gotten started into climbing last May - I feel very good about now being able to lead 5.6 trad comfortably (and having done harder out of neccessity - i.e. bad route finding on multi-pitch on-sites)- I've done most of the triple star 3-4 pitch routes in Big and Little Cottonwood canyons here is SLC, Utah.
I started out with racking 4 cams per binner - key-chain, pick a size style, but moved to 2 cams per binner as I got a bit better at grabbing the right size.
I've also learned to tell when I am no longer on a 5.6 - i.e. you are pumping to place gear - one try is more than enough!
So, I a bought 6 more binners yesterday (I've got 12 cams). They have the same color as the dog-bones on the cams. I also got a good piece of advice the other day - memorize the color to a body diminsion - small finger, finger, small hand, hand etc.
I have my nuts on 3 binners, small, med, large - I continue to "key ring" these, but seem to be able to get the right size first try 80% of the time.
Does anybody have any good suggestions that will help me to better arrange my rack, and especially to be able to grab "the right color" first time.
I know this is going to be key to moving to harder leads.
Thanks in advance
Chad
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stevematthys
Sep 1, 2002, 7:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
Posts: 1248
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i rack all my cams by themselves, but i have also gotten to the point where i can guess the size correctly (most of the time). i do this because in the crux area i can just plug in a cam clip into the biner it is racked on and keep climbing with little energy wasted.
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bigwalling
Sep 1, 2002, 8:12 PM
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Registered: Dec 29, 2001
Posts: 728
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When free climbing I always rack each cam on it's own biner. I perfer using wire gates also.
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kmae
Sep 3, 2002, 12:40 AM
Post #4 of 7
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Registered: Jul 15, 2002
Posts: 37
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I also rack each cam on its own biner, that way you can (if the route allows for a short draw) clip the rope right into the biner and you're done. If you decide you need a longer sling, keep the orginal biner on the cam, add the sling, clip the (new) biner, and only then unclip the first biner and remove it. This way, you are clipped in the whole time, and you don't have to deal with dropping the rope and hauling it back up again to make the clip into the new biner.
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stevematthys
Sep 3, 2002, 2:33 AM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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that was entertaining to read
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wlderdude
Sep 6, 2002, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Aug 8, 2002
Posts: 1123
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I tried to rack every nut I had on its own little key chain mini binier. They snaged like you wouldn't believe, and the gate opening is awful small. Bad idea.
I found racking nuts on a key locking biner shure helps keep the wires from getting snagged. Wish I could do the colored biner thing. They are expensive.
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thrillseeker05
Sep 6, 2002, 3:05 PM
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Registered: Aug 14, 2002
Posts: 612
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rack each cam on a seperate biner and then get some tape that matches the color or the cam. put it on the spine of the biner so you dont have to look to hard to know what color you are grabbing. just something i do.
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