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Bolted Belays for upward directional pull
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builttospill


Jul 19, 2006, 11:17 AM
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Bolted Belays for upward directional pull
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I think this has been asked here before since I think I saw it a few months ago, but I couldn't find it in the search. It might have been the result of thread drift.

When using a solo belay device like the silent partner or a clove hitch, is it acceptable to use the bolted belays (assuming there are some on multipitch trad lines) for the anchor for the next pitch.

This would potentially expose them to upward directional pull and I'm not sure bolts are suited for this (never bolted anything). Obviously I would back it up, and follow typical rules of anchor-building like no extension, but still.....is this advised?


caughtinside


Jul 19, 2006, 11:25 AM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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Bolts are multidirectional.


cintune


Jul 19, 2006, 11:30 AM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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When they're new, anyway.


jred


Jul 19, 2006, 11:35 AM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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I second that, bolts are multi-directional.


goober


Jul 19, 2006, 12:00 PM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Obviously I would back it up,

With most bolted "trad" anchors there are no back-up gear placements, at least thats the way it used to be. That's why the anchor is bolted. All bolts are multidirectional, it's the hangers that are used that might not be. Cold Shuts are a not so shining example of "hangers" that would be very dangerous with an upward pull. Luckily these are mostly used only at the top of routes, but not always. Either way, here is some helpfull info... I always try to get in some gear pretty soon off of the belay, just like I would when climbing with a partner. I usually use a longish quickdraw on the piece, and clove hitch the rope to the bottom biner, leaving the rope between the anchor and 1st piece pretty tight. This allows you to get all of the extra play out of the anchor (common with 2 bolt belays), and still have some rope stretch should you fall (rope stretch-- twice the length of the quick draw that you used).
You can use this technique every time you tie need to tie into a piece to reduce the "rope drag".


goober


Jul 19, 2006, 12:12 PM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Obviously I would back it up,

With most bolted "trad" anchors there are no back-up gear placements, at least thats the way it used to be. That's why the anchor is bolted. All bolts are multidirectional, it's the hangers that are used that might not be. Cold Shuts are a not so shining example of "hangers" that would be very dangerous with an upward pull. Luckily these are mostly used only at the top of routes, but not always. Either way, here is some helpfull info... I always try to get in some gear soon off of the belay, just like I would when climbing with a partner. I usually use a longish quickdraw on the piece, and clove hitch the rope to the bottom biner, leaving the rope between them (anchor and 1st piece) pretty tight. This allows you to get all of the extra play out of the anchor, and still have some rope stretch should you fall (rope stretch-- twice the length of the quick draw that you used).


frodolf


Oct 4, 2006, 3:25 AM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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Sure, the bolt itself is multi directional, itís the hangers that might not be.
I donít know what hangers are most common in the US, but in Europe Petzlís Coeur Goujon is probably the most popular. And according to the tech-spec here:
http://en.petzl.com/ProduitsServices/PS_374_1.pdf , these hangers are supposed to withstand up to 18kn in upward pull, the same as the outward pull rate.

But watch out for when the bolt isnít drilled deep enough. If the bolt peeks out an inch or so, there is a risk that the biner might brake upon it, like breaking a stick over your knee. You must make sure that the biner wonít brake over the bolt. I sometimes use two biners in the same bolt, one for upward, and one for downward pull. And I always use a screamer for the belay.

Maybe old new, but anyway...


desertdude420


Oct 10, 2006, 9:57 AM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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Bolts are multidirectional. They are designed to take force in any direction, even straight out! They are rated to hold more force in the up/down/sideways line of pull than they are being pulled straight out though. Try to not ever pull out on sketchy bolts-just down.

P.S.-Never fully trust expansion bolts in sandstone. Drilled angle pitons or glue-ins are better for soft rock.


krusher4


Oct 10, 2006, 10:55 AM
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Re: Bolted Belays for upward directional pull [In reply to]
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Has anyone said "Bolts are multidirectional???"


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