|
|
|
|
buckyllama
Mar 16, 2006, 3:39 PM
Post #1 of 6
(2110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 12, 2003
Posts: 314
|
So this is more or less a thought experiment.
All the strength based forms of training, Power, PE, Recruitment, etc. are all easy to train at home with very small walls, hangboards, etc. So how would one train ARC? I personally have no regular access to indoor or outdoor walls. If I'm lucky I can get to a climbing gym once a week, but it's not uncommon to go a month with no climbing at all. That's obviously far too little to get any gains from traversing and conventional ARC training at the wall.
So in lieu of a treadwall or buying a new house to accomidate a real home wall, what are my options?
In thinking about what ARC really is training I had a sort of odd idea. Pretty much ARC is training your forearms at a low aerobic load to increase capillary density. It's also contributing to overall aerobic training. So what about using a rowing machine with something like rock rings. The rings would have to be constructed to have multiple grip options that you would then cycle through as you rowed to get the proper tense/relax cycle.
Keep it at around 60-70% max hr, and with holds that you can use indefinately... and it seems you are in buisness. Obviously traversing is better and a heck of a lot more interesting. The rock rings wouldn't be a perfect approximation of real climbing, but for ARC it doesn't need to be. Also note that this does not train technique as traversing does. That's ok with me. So the question is, would this work? And if not, why not?
|
|
|
|
|
fracture
Mar 16, 2006, 4:00 PM
Post #2 of 6
(2110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2003
Posts: 1814
|
Performance Rock Climbing discusses the possibility of ARC training using a hangboard. I think the idea is you take weight off, and then cycle through the holds on the board for 20-40 minutes (probably while watching TV).
As you mention, you will not get the movement practice benefits and the increased comfort on the rock that traversing would give you. But perhaps it could be a good option if you can't ever get to a real wall....
|
|
|
|
|
hammerhead
Mar 16, 2006, 4:17 PM
Post #3 of 6
(2110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 3, 2004
Posts: 371
|
This might sound lame but it's the best option I've found on non climbing days is to squeeze a rubber ball with my arms above my heart. I'll alternate, squeeze the ball with my left hand for X amount of reps then I'll squeeze the ball for a count of say, 30 with ten reps. I do this while watching TV.
Al
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Jul 20, 2006, 2:07 AM
Post #4 of 6
(2110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
other ideas?
BUMP
|
|
|
|
|
jto
Jul 20, 2006, 10:07 AM
Post #5 of 6
(2110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 18, 2004
Posts: 272
|
even if it sounds (and is) pretty boring, I´ve found hangboard ARCing quite beneficial for my basic endurance and ability to recover between the holds on harder routes and workouts themselves.
it does nothing for my tech but I get to climb a lot of boulders so no worries there. I sometimes stress endurance more by doing 4-7 20-60 minute ARC workouts a week. during the others phases it stays around 1-2 times a week.
the workout itself varies a bit on intensity. if I do longer 40-60 minute ARCing, I´ll stay just under the anaerobic threshold. shorter workouts can be done with a bit of intervals here and there above the threshold. I use a scale to monitor the intensity and the progress.
once again: boring but it´s a case of motivation. tv and music helps quite nicely.
|
|
|
|
|
jer
Jul 20, 2006, 12:44 PM
Post #6 of 6
(2110 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 26, 2000
Posts: 426
|
Buildering Circuits.
I run from the house in sticky rubber approach shoes.
I have a number of different circuits.
Get your heart rate up before you hit the first "problem". I choose problems that are easy but allow me to move quickly and keep my heart rate up. Also they should not overstress your arms, but need to be tennis shoe friendly.
Retaining walls, parking garages, stem corners, stair wells, brick aretes, limestone and morter at the park. Be creative. Just Keep moving!
It's also good to do the problem, and keep moving, running between problems, keeping heart rate up. This also helps one not get busted.
Hard to believe, but I have only been arrested once for this.
jer
|
|
|
|
|
|
