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climbinggecko420
Jul 21, 2006, 4:41 PM
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This is my first post that I have ever wrote. I'm writing this post because I'm going to Devil's Lake in Wis and I would like to know if they is any bolted sport routes
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jonqdoe
Jul 21, 2006, 4:47 PM
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Nope. It's all trad and toprope, with 99% of the people there toproping.
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caughtinside
Jul 21, 2006, 5:07 PM
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Yes, you should explore bold new territory and bolt the first sport route at DL!
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dth
Jul 21, 2006, 5:32 PM
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Bolting is not allowed at Devils Lake and besides that the rock is way to hard you will never get a drill in it.
Mostly TR and Trad
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unkemptbeard
Jul 21, 2006, 6:37 PM
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Flatus and Mammalary Magic are sport routes........
:lol:
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climbinggecko420
Jul 24, 2006, 1:33 PM
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Are they bolted sport routes Flatus and Mammalary Magic or just the closest to a sport route I will find at Devil's Lake. thank you all for the info if anyone has any more it will be nice you know.
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jonqdoe
Jul 24, 2006, 2:34 PM
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I haven't had a close look at the two bolts on Flatus because I couldn't get my sorry butt off the ground on it, but I know the bolts are at least ~20 years old and known to be sketchy. The bolt (one) on Mammalary Magic is also ancient, rusty, and I think it spins. I wouldn't call either route a sport route, they're mixed at best, and the bolts are untrustworthy. If you want to lead at Devil's Lake, plan on placing gear.
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unkemptbeard
Jul 24, 2006, 2:49 PM
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Gecko,
The routes I suggested were more of a joke. Upon these routes, you will find one or more bolts of dubious reliability. And while I'm sure that at some point some wild child has probably led these routes on the bolts only, they--as with most bolts at the lake--are from antiquity and leading on them would probably be not much different than soloing the route.
The lake really doesn't have sport routes. My guess is that any bolts placed at the lake were done so years back on difficult climbs with sections that could not be otherwise protected or run out with less than 80% chance of death. The closest thing you're going to find to sport there is a hard mixed pro route with questionable bolts in the sections where there would be no options for gear. And there are probably only a handful of those in the whole park.
If you are looking to lead routes at the lake, it's pretty much going to be trad only. Otherwise plan on top roped climbing there. You'll have to be early to rise though--I think there is already a rope on Brinton's crack.
If you're going to be disappointed without sport climbing I'd plan a trip for somewhere else. Devil's Lake is an amazing crag. Just not for sport climbing.
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climbinggecko420
Jul 24, 2006, 4:22 PM
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Thank you all for the info. it helped alot and looks like I will be doing some top rope and trad climbing then. It will be my first time climbing at Devil's lake so any one have any must climb or try to climb routes.
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gerry
Aug 3, 2006, 9:41 PM
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There are no bolted routes at DL,at least none you can trust.Ya gotta lead the route just like I did 20 years ago.I can't climb any more,crashed in the Alps 1997,be careful.61 now,can only race cars,be careful!!
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redpoint73
Aug 22, 2006, 5:07 PM
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In reply to: Bolting is not allowed at Devils Lake and besides that the rock is way to hard you will never get a drill in it. Mostly TR and Trad
Thats some bunk science there. The quartzite is plenty drillable. Its just not allowed by park rules.
The OP should be aware, there are some old 1/4" contraction bolts ("coffin nails") on a few routes at the Lake, but they are not the modern 3/8" bolts that he is thinking of. The old ones are smaller in diameter, much shorter, hold in the rock a different way, and are too corroded to be trustworthy.
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floating_bottle
Aug 22, 2006, 7:02 PM
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Necedah is nearby - maybe 30-45 minutes from the lake. It is not big, but has a decent amount of medium to tough sport routes.
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