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madclimbr13


Jun 29, 2006, 10:15 AM
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i climbed a so called 5.16e the other day, probably more like a 5.17z. It was knarly!


dirtineye


Jun 29, 2006, 10:45 AM
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Anything in the dark, wet, wearing a full pack.


Partner angry


Jun 29, 2006, 11:15 AM
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Anything in the dark, wet, wearing a full pack.

You just described my ideal date.


snoopy138


Jun 29, 2006, 11:23 AM
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Anyone felt sandbagged on these?

...
Sahara Terror at Tahquitz, 5.7
...

unsure, since i couldn't tell whether I was on route for the entire upper half. I'm pretty sure that this route was originally rated (in fact, was the original standard for) 5.6.


victorjohn


Jun 29, 2006, 11:41 AM
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Pig Pen (Bachar Cracker of the Desert) in J-Tree. That muthafkn thing is HARD! Before anyone disagrees,

1) yes i do know how to crack climb, finger jam, handjam, and eat oatmeal w/ a nut tool.

2) you are wrong. It is harder than it's rating. It's OK w/ me, but thems the facts jack

I sooooo agree with this. Also thanks to whoever for the earlier mention of Mt. Woodson, as there are a few sandy problems there.

I think an honorable mention should go for Black Mountain as well. Huge, sharp boulders that make you rethink how strong you believe you are... :shock:


ninja_climber


Jun 29, 2006, 11:52 AM
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The comp. I went to in Dreznica last week. Had to lead a 6+ route for the qualification...6+ my ass. Everyone says it should be rated a clean 7/7+ .
its all techy feet and finger cracks...


dirtineye


Jun 29, 2006, 12:09 PM
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Anything in the dark, wet, wearing a full pack.

You just described my ideal date.



I was talking about climbing, not women!


lazyjammin


Jun 29, 2006, 12:18 PM
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Nurdle in the Valley, 5.6 ow section, The hardest 5.6 section I ever did. Also that 5.9 water tube route at granite basin.


lazyjammin


Jun 29, 2006, 12:19 PM
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Nurdle in the Valley, 5.6 ow section, The hardest 5.6 section I ever did. Also that 5.9 water tube route at granite basin.


lunabruandabby


Jul 8, 2006, 11:24 AM
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The Dolphin at J-Tree. I onsighted Bird of Fire next to it without a hitch and continued to grovel, bleed and cry up A 5.7.

Justin


hoofers_andy


Jul 8, 2006, 2:10 PM
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worst sandbag on the planet would have to be 'ahab' on the base of el cap. rated 10b and would still be ridiculously sandbagged if rated .11b.


zeke_sf


Jul 8, 2006, 4:02 PM
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I tried a 10 a or b at Mt Diablo, Ca about 4 years ago and the biggest hold i got to was probably about 1/5 of a pad on a completely vertical route. I struggled up 3 bolts crimping with my fingernails at parts. The rest of the route wasn't any better and was about 100 ft. It had to be at least 11d. A friend of mine got on an "8" and struggled up the whole thing. we were on a 60m rope and as i lowered him, he had to untie about 12 feet off the ground just to get down. When he finally did, he said he'd rate it a .10.

I know the routes you're talking about and led both of them. The first one is referred to in the RC.com database as "bolt route" and it's graded .10c on here and .10b in my Falcon guide. I'd give it .10d or so. I fell quite a bit on it. The other climb is "Amazing Face" and is rated a .9 in the book and a .9 on here and I'd heard through the grapevine that a hold broke or something so now it's .10a, but it was much less sandbagged than the first climb mentioned. Chris, rockrat511, didn't lead that day, but he saw me flail and caught my fifteen-footer, so I dunno what he's talking about. :wink: I'd say it was sandbagged. Yosemite climbs are hard, but that's where the rating system was developed so I'd have a hard time saying they're sandbagged (yeah, I know the YDS was actually developed at Tahquitz, but whatever).

Colin

Edit: Now that I think about, Chris took as long as I did, or longer, to clean the route on TR. :wink:

Yeah, Amazing Face is pretty solid 10A. I've climbed easier 10A other places, that's for sure. I guess it goes to 10C if you lead from the right side of the bolts instead of the left side. I haven't tried the infamous 10B Bolt Line yet because two guys were monopolizing it for an hour just trying to get the first bolt clipped. They finally got that clipped and then kept on struggling! Next time.

Also, Viscious Circles at Indian Rock is possibly one of the hardest 10Cs I've laid hands on. I usually onsight 10C pretty well, but I struggled just on TR for the Circles. Now that I'm going, the Waterfall Route at Castle Rock observatory is called 5.8 in some guides, 5.10A in others, and yet is acknowledged to have around a V3 start. I think somebody's been sandbagging the sandstone...


davidji


Jul 8, 2006, 7:44 PM
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A few years ago a friend of mine busted a hold off the start of Bolt Route, and I think the start was 5.12- before that. I don't think he changed it much, but I don't think he's the only one to damage that soft rock either.

It was called 5.10d in my copy of Bay Area Rock from the 90s. I think the more recent Falcon guide that called it 5.10b was based on even older info.


banannacrmpie4


Jul 8, 2006, 8:19 PM
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Solid Coorage at Stone Hill in Mt. it's 5.10d going on 5.13


rock_junkie


Jul 8, 2006, 10:04 PM
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At broughton's bluff there's a route called Predator "12c". After doing 4 moves which were a least 12c/d, I think otherwise. With perfect beta it would still be 13a or more. Maybe thats why the book gave it no stars.

Happy Sending
Ryan


zeke_sf


Jul 9, 2006, 12:12 AM
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A few years ago a friend of mine busted a hold off the start of Bolt Route, and I think the start was 5.12- before that. I don't think he changed it much, but I don't think he's the only one to damage that soft rock either.

It was called 5.10d in my copy of Bay Area Rock from the 90s. I think the more recent Falcon guide that called it 5.10b was based on even older info.

Interesting history on Bolt Route....I really have to try it now that I have an easy out for failing to send!

I think Nor Cal is home of inconsistent grading in general, especially for sport climbs. Crags are so few and far between and usually there's only a climb or two representing a grade (if that), so there's not a lot of climbs to compare against each other, locals sandbag, etc.. I could be way off base, but I've talked with a few people who were locals elsewhere who agreed.


ihategrigris


Jul 21, 2006, 8:23 AM
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Guilt Trip (5.7) - Skaha BC...

5.7.... with a V1 start ;)


krusher4


Jul 21, 2006, 9:41 AM
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I can't believe nobody mentioned it yet..

The Umph Slot, 5.8+ (The Dome, Boulder Canyon):
http://mountainproject.com/...n/the_dome/105758578

Consensus puts it around hard 10 to mid 11.

Depends on your body type. I'm pretty small so I could sqeeze in all the way to those cracks in the back. LOL, this is a great sandbag!!!


t-dog
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Jul 21, 2006, 10:28 AM
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The Dolphin at J-Tree. I onsighted Bird of Fire next to it without a hitch and continued to grovel, bleed and cry up A 5.7.

Justin

Hate to be the one to break it to you, but Dolphin really isn't that hard. You essentially have no-hands-rests the whole way up. Learn to OW climb!


snoopy138


Jul 21, 2006, 10:41 AM
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The Dolphin at J-Tree. I onsighted Bird of Fire next to it without a hitch and continued to grovel, bleed and cry up A 5.7.

Justin

Hate to be the one to break it to you, but Dolphin really isn't that hard. You essentially have no-hands-rests the whole way up. Learn to OW climb!

Hex Marks the Poot and the top section of High Strung (both out in the Wonderland of Rocks) are also supposed to be 5.7 OW, and they both felt MUCH easier than Dolphin for me.


rck_iceclimber9


Jul 21, 2006, 11:15 AM
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5.9s in North Carolina could be as hard as 5.11 or as easy as 5.7.... especially on the lesser known routes. Lots here!


dannyhemp


Jul 21, 2006, 12:11 PM
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Maybe someone can enlighten me...

Never heard of "sandbag"? Why sandbag? Can a climb be a sandbag if it is rated harder than it actually is? :?:


petsfed


Jul 21, 2006, 12:31 PM
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Maybe someone can enlighten me...

Never heard of "sandbag"? Why sandbag? Can a climb be a sandbag if it is rated harder than it actually is? :?:

No, that's rather a "featherbag" as some are wont to say. Poor grading is not the same as sandbagging. Sandbagging is intentionally lieing about the quality and difficulty of the route to a) make oneself look better or b) revel in the victims' sufferings.


curtis_g


Jul 21, 2006, 12:35 PM
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Maybe someone can enlighten me...

Never heard of "sandbag"? Why sandbag? Can a climb be a sandbag if it is rated harder than it actually is? :?:

sandbag is the term I've always heard and used.
probably along the lines of "that route is a 5.7? then someone needs to drop the sandbags I must have hanging on my harness because it FEELS like a 5.9+ !!!"

or at least that's what i've thought of it like refering to climbing.

but in golf, when playing against others and reconciling scores at the end of a round based on differences in average handicap, a player who is sandbagging his handicap is playing purposefully bad in the beginning of the year so that their handicap is high and it appears as if they're a bad golfer, then at the end of the year tourneyment or just in the second half of the season with his/her buddies, the golfer has a high handicap and is playing exceptionally well compared to earlier but stll receiving the high handicap compensation. this golfer could also enter lower skill level tournaments because the handicap he has accrued makes him seem like a worse golfer.

or at a climbing competition, a sandbagger would be an intermediate entering the beginner class and only climbing well enough to stay at the top of the beginners even though they can climb better.

what a rant, and what a lengthy 2cents


skateman


Jul 21, 2006, 12:53 PM
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Hard to say, but in recent memory Simple J. Malrkey at Seneca comes to mind. I think it's rated 5.7+. It had everything: crappy belays, diffacult route finding, er and a strenous roof pull. From now on I'm staying away from climbs that have the words "simple and Malarkey" in them!

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