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caveman
Aug 31, 2002, 6:16 PM
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does anyone know where sharma's 5.15 is and the name of it?
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michaelmay513
Aug 31, 2002, 6:25 PM
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BIOGRAPHIE is the name and it's located in FRANCE
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dustinap
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Aug 31, 2002, 6:27 PM
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Biographie Extension renamed Realization located in France.
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melonface
Aug 31, 2002, 8:56 PM
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ceuse, france
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bigwalling
Aug 31, 2002, 9:38 PM
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Here is a link
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doosh
Sep 2, 2002, 7:25 AM
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Does anyone know where Fred Rhouling's 5.15 is and what it is named ???
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carnaged
Sep 2, 2002, 7:27 AM
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*whistles* wow, 5.15
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climber_dude
Sep 2, 2002, 7:38 AM
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wow thats amazing
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janjaf
Sep 2, 2002, 9:00 AM
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If you want the locations of all the 9a's( 5.15 and up for you americans), check out 8a.nu - there's an article with a complete list of routes, and who've climbed them.
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thomasribiere
Sep 2, 2002, 10:58 AM
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Fred Rouhling's 9a named Hugh is in Charente (some say it's aleady in Perigord but no matter), crag named Les Eaux Claires (The Bright Waters) close to the city of Angouleme.
fred rouhling's 9b is also in charente, in a roof : 27 moves, height 8 m, length a little bit more than 20 meters. I'm not sure it's in LEs EAux Claires, but i will check later this evening 'cause my pasta is ready and I have to lunch now otherwise I'm late to work!
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davep
Sep 2, 2002, 11:43 AM
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There is also a 9a+ Orujo in Spain done in 1998. But this relies on a bolt-on hold, so a lot of people dismiss it.
Also big Fred Rouhling has another 9a l'autre cote de la ciel which looks monstrous:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=721
P.S. it is protected by pegs.
[ This Message was edited by: davep on 2002-09-02 04:44 ]
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doki
Sep 2, 2002, 2:06 PM
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OHHHH!!! YEAH!!!!
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topher
Sep 2, 2002, 4:43 PM
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does any one have pics of relization/video i know ther was one on climbxmedia but now its gone. if you have either let me know. also what about dave grahams akira isnt that 9a+ or 5.15?
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phillycheese
Sep 2, 2002, 6:12 PM
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WOW!! absolutely awe inspiring.
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daggerx
Sep 3, 2002, 3:13 AM
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Im sorry but I just can't accept a 5.15, eighter it's a 14 or a 6+. It may just be they way I learned way back when but come on. Some one needs to fly over their and down grade it.
DaggerX
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chakan
Sep 3, 2002, 3:27 AM
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downgrade it??? they would have to repeat it first
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fiend
Sep 3, 2002, 3:29 AM
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I agree with DaggerX. I don't even believe in 5.10a, there's just no way people can climb harder than that. I refuse to imagine something outside the scope of my narrow vision.
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traide
Sep 3, 2002, 3:39 AM
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fiend - that's pretty funny.
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cory
Sep 3, 2002, 3:49 AM
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For Clarification:
Dave Graham did not climb Akira, Fred Rouhling did. Also, 9a translates to 5.14d, not 5.15. Akira is the name of the 9b or 5.15b that was asked about.
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chakan
Sep 3, 2002, 3:52 AM
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dave graham climbed action directe which is 9a. Chris sharma route is a 9a+
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brianthew
Sep 3, 2002, 4:02 AM
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For those readers of Climbing out there, issue 208 has a "discussion" about 5.15 (discussion being applied loosely, it's Master Beta talking). He mentions three possible 5.15 routes, Realization by Sharma, Akira by Fred Rouhling, and Orujo by Bernabe Fernandez. Apparently, Akira is a 45 foot roof with a 5.13 headwall, and Orujo is long cave as well. But both Orujo and Akira are apparently manufactured; Akira has drilled holds in the rock and Orujo has some bolt-on holds. Orujo is said to be 5.14d, but Ferandez didn't use all the custom holds. Strange....Fred said Akira is 5.15b, even though there are no confirmed 5.15a routes in the world. So it seems Sharma's monster climb is the only "authentic" one in the sense he used only natural holds.
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pbjosh
Sep 3, 2002, 4:38 AM
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I've heard that Akira does not have manufactured holds but rather has epoxied flakes/holds that would have otherwise or already had fallen off - not sure if that's the case or if it's chipped/drilled.
Also, Chris Sharma has sent Realization but has not rated it. It can't really be rated by people (like sponsors, ahem prana, ahem 5.10) who haven't climbed the damn thing now then can it?
josh
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davep
Sep 3, 2002, 8:20 AM
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I have also heard that Akira ISN'T chipped, but just glued to hold it together.
I think the main reason Akira gets dismissed is because many top climbers cannot accept that there may be this quiet guy in france who is capable of climbing this type of shit. Many top climbers went to try it and downgrade it but couldn't even do the first crux move. Eyebrows were raised when he gave it 9b but if thats what he honestly felt is was then thats fair - afterall that was in 1995 and no-one has bee anywhere near repeating it yet.
Apparently that Orujo route has/d 4 bolt on holds, and was originally 9a. The guy then did it only resorting to one of them, thus the 9a+ upgrade. Don't know if the other 3 have been removed though....
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overlord
Sep 3, 2002, 9:19 AM
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weel, if he used tha one hold it is STILL an aid climb, isnt it??? i really hate it when people glue/bolt/whatever holds to a route because they cant climb it otherwise. why not just leave it alone so a better man/woman can climb it the way it is supposed to be??? talk about egoism.
CLIMB ON
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davep
Sep 3, 2002, 9:35 AM
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I think a couple of bolt-ons isn't a big deal in continental europe where a large chunk of their sport routes are entirely manufactured anyway. Yes it sucks.
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