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Learning to set routes
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climbinggecko420


Jul 24, 2006, 9:12 AM
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Learning to set routes
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OK this is something I have no info. about and I would like to know. How do you know if someone has set a route? Is there some kind of book you can look it up in? I would like to set a route someday but I would like to know if someone has found it and set it before me. Hope some one can help me.


asc_climb


Jul 24, 2006, 9:49 AM
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Re: Learning to set routes [In reply to]
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obviously if there is an anchor or any gear on the route you plan to set then obviously someone got to it first. I am sure there is a guide book for your area which may help.


Partner hosh


Jul 24, 2006, 11:14 AM
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Re: Learning to set routes [In reply to]
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nOOb #1 says to nOOb #2: "How do I know if some one has set the route I was planning to set?"

nOOb #2: "Look for gear or an anchor."

That's funny... Are you talking about a gym climb? Because that's what it sounds like to me. If that's the case, then you don't look for gear or an anchor, that's going to be there anyway (we hope...). And why do you care if someone else has set the "exact same problem" at another gym? I would guess that the statistical probability of that is really very slim. Like to the point of not possible. And do you honestly think that gym setters log every route in a book that any climber could buy at REI? That would take like forever.

If you're referring to an honest to goodness out side climb (what? people really climb outside?) then you don't sound like you've got enough knowledge to be FA'ing some route without killing yourself. Don't do it.

hosh.


asc_climb


Jul 24, 2006, 12:07 PM
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Re: Learning to set routes [In reply to]
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he is not talking about a problem or a gym climb...and outdoors of course you will see pro or an anchor. if not then check a guide book


Partner hosh


Jul 24, 2006, 12:15 PM
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In reply to:
he is not talking about a problem or a gym climb...and outdoors of course you will see pro or an anchor. if not then check a guide book

which is cool and all, but you don't "set" climbs out side.

Hence my point, it doesn't seem like the guy has enough information or know-how to first ascent something without killing himself.

hosh.


Partner hosh


Jul 24, 2006, 12:22 PM
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On second thought, this is the internet after all, go for it man, and make sure to bring enough bolts!

hosh.


ratmnerd


Jul 24, 2006, 12:54 PM
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In reply to:
he is not talking about a problem or a gym climb...and outdoors of course you will see pro or an anchor. if not then check a guide book

not true dude. a purely trad line may have no bolted top anchor (instead relying on you to have the know-how to build your own). and since it's purely trad, there would be no fixed pro (except perhaps jammed gear or pitons).

but of course, a trad-meister such as yourself would know that, of course.


asc_climb


Jul 24, 2006, 3:19 PM
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who knows what he was talking about...how about gecko just rephrase the question saying "bolt" if he meant outdoors.


climbinggecko420


Jul 25, 2006, 6:23 AM
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Thank you for all the smart remarks this is like only my forth times posting.How ever I know if someone has set sport routes by it being bolted but I'm talking about places that to can not bolt, like trad and top rope and bouldering routes. I was asking if there was a all around book that gets printed like once a year or do you have to go on guide books and work of mouth. and why would any one ask about logging gym routes o that's smart!!!!!!!!! hope I cleared it up and hope you can help.


aarong


Jul 25, 2006, 6:41 AM
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Re: Learning to set routes [In reply to]
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In reply to:
How do you know if someone has set a route? Is there some kind of book you can look it up in?

OF COURSE! You're talking about the Earth Climbing Encyclopedia - the guide to all climbing on planet Earth including a listing of every bolt placed on every route in the world and every inch of named and unnamned stone touched by human hands. You mean you don't have one of these? Oh man, if you have to get one. You have to get one right away! That's the only way you're going to find out if someone has climbed the choss pile - I mean route - that you want to do. Now, this book is on its 200th edition, they update it every two years to account for new routes, so you'll have to act quick if you want your route in the next edition - that is, unless it's already in there!

(As an aside, your topic title, "Learning to Set Routes" has nothing to do with your questions.)


whitribj


Jul 25, 2006, 6:44 AM
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I really wish I could rate today!


Partner j_ung


Jul 25, 2006, 6:47 AM
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It doesn't sound like you're revving the drill as we speak, so what the Hell, I'll help out. Absent obvious signs of wear, such as bolts, an anchor, a clean streak through a lichen field, then yes, guidebooks and word of mouth are your primiary sources of info. Find the old timers and prolific first ascentionists and ask if anyone's done the line previously.


olderic


Jul 25, 2006, 7:35 AM
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Believe it or not - back in the days when real climbers did real climbing there was a strong "leave no trace ethic" - something about letting everyone have the same experience as the person who did the FA. And things were intentionally left undocumented for the same reason. Isn't that silly? It would force people to think for themselves after all. Fortunately in this brave new world of dumbed down climbing we have pretty well erradicated this dangerous old fashioned ethic and "set" routes on every climbable surface and documented them up the ying-yang. In fact the majority of today's "climbers" are so concerned about everthing being known and understood that they spend far more time discussing climbing then actually doing it - ah - progress.


climbinggecko420


Jul 25, 2006, 7:54 AM
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Well thanks for the help and something to laugh about and I will get the Earth Climbing Encyclopedia asap you can bet your money on that I want to get a route in it soon :!: :!: :!: can't wait two more years :!: :!: :!: :!: olderic what you said is how it still should be like but the world changes but some people don't have to so try to keep it alive.


whitribj


Jul 26, 2006, 8:50 AM
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So hard to tell if that is sarcasm.


asc_climb


Jul 27, 2006, 9:53 AM
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Well thanks for the help and something to laugh about and I will get the Earth Climbing Encyclopedia asap you can bet your money on that I want to get a route in it soon Exclamation Exclamation Exclamation can't wait two more years Exclamation Exclamation Exclamation Exclamation olderic what you said is how it still should be like but the world changes but some people don't have to so try to keep it alive.


simply speechless


asc_climb


Jul 27, 2006, 10:04 AM
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In reply to:
Well thanks for the help and something to laugh about and I will get the Earth Climbing Encyclopedia asap you can bet your money on that I want to get a route in it soon :!: :!: :!: can't wait two more years :!: :!: :!: :!: olderic what you said is how it still should be like but the world changes but some people don't have to so try to keep it alive.

simply speechless


asc_climb


Jul 27, 2006, 10:06 AM
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In reply to:
Well thanks for the help and something to laugh about and I will get the Earth Climbing Encyclopedia asap you can bet your money on that I want to get a route in it soon :!: :!: :!: can't wait two more years :!: :!: :!: :!: olderic what you said is how it still should be like but the world changes but some people don't have to so try to keep it alive.

i....am just speechless


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