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At what grade does Trad climbing start?
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caughtinside


Jul 25, 2006, 1:14 PM
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At what grade does Trad climbing start?
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Ok, ok. This is a lousy troll at best. But, some of you may be familiar with the assertion 'sport climbing starts at .12c.' (There was an article a couple years ago that stated this.) Which begs the question: At what grade does trad climbing start?

4th class?
5.1?

Most of the time for me it feels about 5.8, or 5.6R. Somewhere in there.


braaaaaaaadley


Jul 25, 2006, 1:17 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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It starts at whatever grade the climber feels unsafe climbing with no protection and decides to enter a rope, a belayer (in most cases), and protection into the climbing equation.


dingus


Jul 25, 2006, 1:23 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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Started in the 8th grade for me.

DMT


joshy8200


Jul 25, 2006, 1:34 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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I don't really care who the person is 5th class climbing starts at 5.0 and it doesn't matter whether they're free soloing, trad, sport, top-rope climbing...in their approach shoes, climbing shoes, or barefoot.

The grade of the terrain is a concensus whether you're talking a class 1, 2, 3, 4 hike or 5th class climbing terrain. Someone's comfort level or climbing ability may cause them to desire to rope up on 4th class terrain, but this doesn't mean that they're climbing 5th class trad. Just like because someone like say...Alex Huber free solos 5.14 that doesn't mean he's now only climbing 4th class.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here...I'd really like to see that article talking about 'sport climbing' not starting until 5.12c. It sounds pretty ridiculous to me.


flipnfall


Jul 25, 2006, 1:42 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Started in the 8th grade for me.

DMT

About 6th grade for me.

GT


curtis_g


Jul 25, 2006, 1:43 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
I don't really care who the person is 5th class climbing starts at 5.0 and it doesn't matter whether they're free soloing, trad, sport, top-rope climbing...in their approach shoes, climbing shoes, or barefoot.

The grade of the terrain is a concensus whether you're talking a class 1, 2, 3, 4 hike or 5th class climbing terrain.

Maybe I'm misunderstanding something here...I'd really like to see that article talking about 'sport climbing' not starting until 5.12c. It sounds pretty ridiculous to me.

believe me, you don't want to see that article...or any of the ridiculous threads related to, concerning, or obscurely mentioning it. because, yea, it's all pretty ridiculous, heated, and senseless.

because this OP mentions/relates to/concerns it, I already don't like it.

Just freakin climb.

If someone is confused when you're talking to them then get into detail...and stop asking about vocabulary to improve your spray skilllllzzlzlzlz!!!!11


Partner j_ung


Jul 25, 2006, 1:43 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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That time when you and I licked those orange toads and tried to climb Carstensz Pyramid, it started as soon as we left our tents. Remember when you tried to climb that villager's wife with only passive pro? I can't believe you fit an 11 hex up in there! :lol:


Partner devkrev


Jul 25, 2006, 2:04 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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It is my belief that trad climbing starts at 5th class. This is because you can climb easier stuff without having to put in the time that is necessary to know rope management, pro placements and route finding. Any hacker can get up that 3rd class scramble, but if you want to "trad" climb, you have to put an effort forth beyond what is normally required by regular hiker/climbers.

dev


kricir


Jul 25, 2006, 2:14 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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wait, sport climbing starts at 12c? shoot, In that case I need to go hit the hang board!


caughtinside


Jul 25, 2006, 2:21 PM
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In reply to:
wait, sport climbing starts at 12c? shoot, In that case I need to go hit the hang board!

That is correct. The rest of us are doing bolted face climbs.


crazygirl


Jul 25, 2006, 2:24 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
wait, sport climbing starts at 12c? shoot, In that case I need to go hit the hang board!

That is correct. The rest of us are doing bolted face climbs.

This makes sense.
After all, every RC.com member warms up on 12c


cam


Jul 25, 2006, 2:40 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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Trad starts at 15d...There was some confusion though because many felt it should be rounded to .16 but the consensus was that trad daddies (and momma's) tend to be more honest with themselves and others about how hard they climb so it was left at .15d.

And sporties thought they had the monopoly on hard routes. Pffff. Whatever.

:roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll: 8^) :roll:


edit: Whoo! My first turd rated post!


lunabruandabby


Jul 25, 2006, 2:44 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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I have done some great 5.1's and 5.2's. Circus at J-tree (5.2) is a fun low angle romp through perfect fingers and big chicken heads.

Justin


svilnit


Jul 25, 2006, 3:42 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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:lol:

I saw the topic of this TR and thought... "oh let the flaming begin"


fracture


Jul 25, 2006, 4:03 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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First: define "trad climbing".

Second: it seems more like trad climbing stops at some grade, and gives way to a bunch of hangdogging and headpointing. Perhaps it is around 5.11 or 5.12- (unless your name is Anderson or Hirayama and you can onsight 5.13 cracks while placing gear).

But of course, there's also the issue of whether onsighting cracks is even possible.... :lol:


krusher4


Jul 25, 2006, 4:06 PM
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5.0


dingus


Jul 25, 2006, 4:24 PM
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Define trad? Easy, the essence of trad is ground-up.

Thankyou.

Thankyouverymuch.

DMT


caughtinside


Jul 25, 2006, 4:33 PM
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Define trad? Easy, the essence of trad is ground-up.

Thankyou.

Thankyouverymuch.

DMT

I asked at what grade it started. Not for a definition. Lucky for you there is nothing in the TOS about stupid posts, stupid. :P


dingus


Jul 25, 2006, 4:38 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
In reply to:
Define trad? Easy, the essence of trad is ground-up.

Thankyou.

Thankyouverymuch.

DMT

I asked at what grade it started.

Yes yes it's all about YOU!

DMT

ps. There ARE other peolpe are posting to this thread too.

pps. I was awared a trophy for my 8th grade response as well. HAH!


caughtinside


Jul 25, 2006, 4:40 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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ok. I was just messin' with you. I don't want to measure trophy's with DMT! :shock: :P 8^)


dingus


Jul 25, 2006, 4:43 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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Just when you think someone can dance they trip right there in front of you. Its sad really.

Again caughtinside, ita all about tempo, the Troll's Dance is ALL ABOUT TEMPO.

Together now

One two three four!

ONE TWO THREE FOUR!

That's it!

ONE TWO THREE FOUR!

(Nice!)

ONE TWO TRHEE FOUR!

We in synch now brother?

DMT


caughtinside


Jul 25, 2006, 4:54 PM
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Five Point One Two Three Four?

By Jove, I think I've got it!


fracture


Jul 25, 2006, 5:11 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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In reply to:
Define trad? Easy, the essence of trad is ground-up.

Yeah---I know that's your view (I've read it from you before). And, I'm inclined to agree that it is probably the only historically consistent definition that can be taken.

But, nonetheless, there are a lot of kids out there who are really impressed with the recent hard so-called "trad" ascents by the likes of Sonnie Trotter and Dave McLeod. Neither of which was done (at least, from what I've heard) in "ground up" style.

Not that it matters a lick to me---this sure ain't my sport. ;)


krusher4


Jul 25, 2006, 5:23 PM
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Re: At what grade does Trad climbing start? [In reply to]
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Ok lets say trad is: Acending a rock formation useing only removable protection? or at least something nearly as simple.


fracture


Jul 25, 2006, 5:27 PM
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Ok lets say trad is: Acending a rock formation useing only removable protection? or at least something nearly as simple.

See, Dingus? :lol:

(krusher: your proposed definition would imply both that ascents of the Bachar-Yerian and The Nose are not "trad".)

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