Forums: Climbing Information: Gear Heads:
5.10's or just the durability?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Gear Heads

Premier Sponsor:

 


bold
Deleted

Aug 27, 2002, 12:17 AM
Post #1 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered:
Posts:

5.10's or just the durability?
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

personaly i think rubber is basically rubber. I really enjoy the shoes durability. I would say that i'm a avid climber, and my shoe's have lasted for about two and half year's.


jt512


Aug 27, 2002, 1:45 AM
Post #2 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

personaly i think 5.10 rubber is stickier. I really enjoy living 2 mi from the 5.10 warehouse where I get my shoes for half price. I would say that i'm a avid climber, and my shoe's have lasted for about two and half month's.

Now I'm going to go practice my apostrophe's.

-Jay

[ This Message was edited by: jt512 on 2002-08-26 18:47 ]


paintinhaler


Aug 27, 2002, 2:17 AM
Post #3 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 12, 2000
Posts: 715

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

What is the question here? I love mine and they do stick better and they have lasted a long time. I forget how long. I climb upwards of 5.11 so they help so much.


Partner camhead


Aug 27, 2002, 2:19 AM
Post #4 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'm not quite sure what this forum is about, but I will tout the superiority of C4 rubber. If you climb in 5.10s, and then try Boreals, there is a world of difference. Boreal rubber feels like teflon (sp?)

blah blah blah


topher


Aug 27, 2002, 2:36 AM
Post #5 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 19, 2002
Posts: 477

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ok I HAVE A beef with good old five 10 now the ruber is good, im not saying its not, but there glue sucks my ass! i have gone through 3 pairs of 5 10 spires in about 6 weeks!! i have ripped the heal off them, hade the rand start to peal. i have good foot work and what not, but when the half of the sole gets ripped off the second time you wear them somthing is wrong. now im glade that i got them from my local shop because they have sent them back for me and given me 2 new pairs of shoes and from the looks of it that might become 3 in the next day or two.


bouldertoad


Aug 27, 2002, 2:50 AM
Post #6 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 26, 2002
Posts: 352

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I will have to say that my first pair of shoes were the 5.10 huecos (before they turned into a sneaker look a like) and now I currently own a pair of Boreal Pyros, 5.10 Newtons and a pair of Boreal Bambas which have been resoled with 5.10 rubber.
I also have worn out a pair of sportiva vipers and cobras (that did not fit right but I got htem cheap). SO i have experience in all the major brands of rubber.
They all are the same to an extent!! Yes maybe out of the box the 5.10 is only slightly stickier but after one route they all are the same. I have never once fallen off of a foothold because that damn rubber was not sticky enough. I have because my footwork sucks but not because of the shoes.

So lets just forget about this whole rubber debate...it is a waste of time. If yo uare worried about your shoe rubber stay in the gym where it is nice and clean...

One mroe thing 5.10 quality sucks.....Just pick up a pair of Boreals and a pair of 5.10's and the difference is obvious

[ This Message was edited by: bouldertoad on 2002-08-26 19:53 ]


bsperes


Aug 27, 2002, 3:32 PM
Post #7 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 29, 2000
Posts: 292

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If the rubber is the same why do Boreal sponsored climbers get their shoes resoled with C4?

Exactly, because Fusion 3 sucks ass.


Partner camhead


Aug 27, 2002, 3:55 PM
Post #8 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Sep 10, 2001
Posts: 20939

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you want good fit, excellent rubber, excellent edges, and durability, I will gladly fall into my standard Red Chili touting!!!

Woohoo! Viva el Toros! Yeah!


overlord


Aug 27, 2002, 10:26 PM
Post #9 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

5.10 rocks. if the rubber is stickier, then it wears. faster. dooh. i live with it. just focus on the footwork.

CLIMB ON


mountainmonkey


Aug 27, 2002, 10:53 PM
Post #10 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 11, 2002
Posts: 474

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

The five-ten rubber is great, but the rest of their quality is starting to be questionable. I have an old (8 year) pair of Summits that are still in good condition. About 6 months ago, i bought a pair of Moccasyms and the bond between the sole and the last was shite. I recently bought a pair of the five-tennies and after 2 trips up Longs peak, and many other shorter climbs, and they are starting to show significant signs of wear, like the seams coming apart and the soles coming off because of the glue. I hope someone at Five-Ten hears these comments and fixes the problem. They make great products that don't last like they should (there's no points for second place).

casey


climbingaddict


Sep 2, 2002, 2:29 PM
Post #11 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 21, 2001
Posts: 298

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

man, i love stealth rubber, they're the best


xanx


Sep 2, 2002, 7:20 PM
Post #12 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 6, 2002
Posts: 1002

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

i first bought a pair of La Sport Cliffs (Hello my name is mike and i was a n00b). Rule number 1 i learned is that unlined real leather stretches way too much... but on to the rubber... i just bought a pair of nice five ten dragons with stealth HF. You would have to be a quadrapalegic to not notice the differenct. especially in the gym. my cliffs just skate right off a lot of holds (my foot work isn't the best, but i don't suck anymore), but the dragons stick like glue. sizing and last aside, just from the difference in the rubber i can do things in dragons i could never do even in brand new, perfectly sized cliffs.

oh and suck it up if 5.10 isnt the best durability or prices. 5.10 shoes. they make you do stuff.


wallhammer


Sep 3, 2002, 1:47 AM
Post #13 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Oct 26, 2001
Posts: 265

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

ditto above post 5.10 rubber excellent. quality of shoe substandard. i have a stack of 5.10s that have fallen apart and are not usable. i have yet to wear out my la sportivas or boreals. i do however have them resoled in stealth.


petelasko


Sep 3, 2002, 6:34 PM
Post #14 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 28, 2002
Posts: 25

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I like the width that I get with 5.10. that's pretty much why I get them. I han't had a problem with shoe quality. the rubber wears through fast if you climb a lot, but all shoes are like that, except maybe like crack boots or something. But who cares what the rubber on those is like. As long as it's sort of sticky.

My feet are too wide for the La Sportiva. Boreals might work, but they don't have any shoes that I like.


chakan


Sep 3, 2002, 6:43 PM
Post #15 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jun 2, 2002
Posts: 443

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I started out with sportiva ghiblis which were really cool and a nice first shoe... went to 5.10 dragons and haven`t looked back!!! Got a new pair of 5.10 anastazi velcro and getting my 5.10 dragons re-soled with 5.10 rubber.


tradguy


Sep 4, 2002, 6:17 PM
Post #16 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 22, 2002
Posts: 526

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

5.10 - great rubber, poor quality control

C4 is good stuff - really sticky but wears fast. Conversely, Fusion (Boreal) has good durability, but is not too sticky (my Aces aren't too hot on slabby face climbs - not that they should be, being crack shoes and all). Anyway, the real issue is that 5.10 quality control really blows. They used to be pretty good, but in the last year or so they went to hell. I was working at a climbing gym before I moved this spring, and we would pull a new pair of 5.10's out of the box and the shoes would be noticeably different - like one slightly longer, or a different cut on the toe rand, slightly different shape to the toe box. I mean it was rediculous. It was really hit and miss, though, because sometimes they would be fine, but other times horrible. Like every other day the workers would come in drunk or something and just screw everything up.


just_me


Sep 4, 2002, 9:23 PM
Post #17 of 17 (4878 views)
Shortcut

Registered: May 13, 2002
Posts: 193

5.10's or just the durability? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I agree with tradguy, I have a pair of 5.10 Newtons. I realized after I wore them a couple of times that the tongue on the right shoe is about an inch shorter than the left. The tongue ends up slipping under the laces. It bunches up and gets uncomfotable after awhile.
I have also had problems with the rubber coming unglued also. The rubber is good, but overall, their quality control is lacking.


Forums : Climbing Information : Gear Heads

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook