I'm such a geek

Because you turn all green and angry when you're mad and are suddenly much stonger? :wink:


6825 sounds reasonable to me, but the assumptions of 10 feet to stop and little to no elongation don't work so well together. Check out this site.

By my calculations 6825lbf ~ 30.8kN (sorry, metric works better for me), and taking into account stretch that works out to ~.73 fall factor for a 80kg (175lb) climber onto steel cable or chain (assume Young's modulus of 784000 just for kicks). 5mm Spectra and a 2.0 fall factor would be only 19.3kN, but since it breaks at 14kN its not so much an issue of your heart coming out your ass as it is your head following it when you hit the ground. :shock:

:D

-a.

therefore an carabiner with a strength of 24 kN is capable of holding (on paper) a fall of sufficient force to make your heart exit your asshole.

curtis, are you still there? tell me when and where, i will join you.

Actually, engineers (being the lazy fcukers that we are) created the basterdized kg-f unit --- because dividing by ~10 is too much work. Thats my favorite metric unit.

I hope you get a better deal than my wife - she got to sex virgins for a while, well over a gross of them. Unfortunatley, they were only fruit flies for a biology experiment - not nearly as exciting as it might read if you wrote it the right way.

Strictly speaking, it is true. kg is a measure of mass in the SI, but the SI is just one arbitrary set of definitions. Given an acceleration, force is just mass times a constant. Therefore, units of mass and force contain exactly the same information, and can be used interchangeably

Actually, engineers (being the lazy fcukers that we are)...

But acceleration isn't always a constant, hence the need for an independent variable.

Here's a monkey-wrench-in-the-works for you: if you want to know how strong your carabiners really are, it is not the closed-gate strength that matters, but rather the open-gate strength. That is because biners often pop open the moment they are weighted in a fall. Thus, you should be asking yourself how big a fall can a 7- or 10-kN-rated biner hold, and is the difference between 7 and 10 kN important?

Jay

This is a misleading statement and since this is a beginners forum, I'll correct it. The gates do not "often" open in a fall. "Occasionally" is much more accurate. It's rare. Solid gates can "flutter" if the rope is whipping through at a fast rate. This doesn't happen with wire gate carabiners.

Since this is the beginner's forum, let's let the newbies, who might be in the market for their first set of draws, know right away why it's worth investing a few more dollars per biner to purchase 10 kN of open gate strength instead of just 7 or 8.

Jay

They are, as far as I know, all free of micro fractures.

great... Anyone want 12 draws with the above biners and 24' dyneema 10MM slings? :wink:

I don't know if the biners are exactly fatal but a draw that has a 24 foot dyneema sling would be pretty rough. :) :wink:

Before you climb again, go back to high school and take the first semester Introductory Physics. In nearly all schools, this is a class on basic mechanics. Climbing will be extremely dangerous for you until you do.

Acceleration doesn't have to be constant to measure force in kg. You simply define 1 kg of force to be equivalent to the amount of force on a mass of 1 kg at an arbitrary value of acceleration, such as g. You can analogously define units of acceleration as units of force by referencing them to a standard mass, which is why airplane pilots can sensibly talk about experiencing "2g's of force" in a tight turn.

Jay

As an engineer I apply my knowledge of physics and science to most situations, including climbing, simply because that’s how I think and it entertains me to do so. Anyone who knows engineers know that we too often analyze (and over-analyze) things mathematically. Simply put, we’re dorks. I think the modern engineer has broken away from the traditional nerd stereotype, and can be just as “cool” as anyone else; but there will always be that underlying affinity for numbers and analysis, and therefore we will always be dorks. I submit this thread as evidence A.

I always encourage learning of physics. I think it is a great field, applicable to many aspects of life, and I find it interesting. That said, I do not agree with your statement that failure to learn physics will make climbing extremely dangerous. A person can learn to be an safe climber without any knowledge of Newtonian mechanics, mathematics, or the first law of thermodynamics. I don’t think it hurts to know these things (although it can hurt others. E.g. curtis_g, who no doubt is in some sort of anaphylactic shock right now) but it certainly isn’t a prerequisite.

I don't know if the biners are exactly fatal but a draw that has a 24 foot dyneema sling would be pretty rough. :) :wink:

Hey Curtis;
If you were going to kill yourself at the end of 2 pages, I'm curious at what you will do at almost 6 pages. :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
I was looking forward to your wake, so I could drink a lot of Newcastles,
and give toasts in your name. :D

BAH, young wankers, always trying to change things. They should have kept the Kgs rather than change them to Kns. :?

Cosmiccragsman

curtis_g wrote:
you are INSTANTLY my worst enemy.

I hate you and I don't think I will ever find it in my heart to forgive you.

If this reaches 2 pages I might commit suicide.

about 225 pounds

Please search other threads.

And please, everyone else, don't keep this on the front page by responding.

peace

crtis

Curtis_g died today on 7-27-06, he commited suicided after the thred titled " how much is a kn" reached three pages. we remember curtis best ranting about random things on rc.com and But he is surely now being lazy in heavan or more likely climbing some awesome formations in hell!