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bouldertoad
Sep 3, 2002, 3:37 AM
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I think that if you can climb 5.12+ offwidths you are more hardcore than any other sport climber who does 5.14 sport routes. I have done up to 10a on trad and only 8 on offwidths so I am convinced that offwidthing (if that is a word) is the most hardcore aspect of all climbing........
what do ya think?
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climbsomething
Sep 3, 2002, 4:12 AM
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Yes, offwidths are the most brutal of the brutal, I reckon. They require a tolerance, if not enjoyment, for pain and awkward-ness. Thus, I very rarely do them Big kudos to the offwidth masters though
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pbjosh
Sep 3, 2002, 4:14 AM
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Offwidthing is a fine art indeed. Every different size requires a different technique, there is possibly more technique in OW climbing than in all the rest of climbing combined (well not really but you get the idea)
My personal record for offwidths is 5.10b, and I've done a few of them, anything from onsight to TR. I've also FLAILED on a 10a squeeze chimney and on some 10c OW's I've tried (like Galen's Crack in Tuolomne - yikes, that mofo is hard!).
josh
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fitz
Sep 3, 2002, 5:38 PM
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From time to time, I hear about off width 'technique'. Frankly, every offwidth above .9 I've ever climbed (or flailed on) is more like a football game than a rock climb.
Spurts of grunting and panting, followed by brief periods of painful, precarious wedging. Half way up a .10b/c, I go almost feral. It is rewarding, but (at least for me) neither fluid or graceful.
One thing I don't do is walk a big cam above me. Whatever sense of security isn't worth the energy it devours for me.
-jjf
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krillen
Sep 3, 2002, 5:44 PM
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you have ot have major lock off strength in your legs. I have a buddy that loves off-width, him adn I climb about the same, but I can't touch him on OW climbing. Their nasty...
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dsafanda
Sep 3, 2002, 5:47 PM
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You may be hard pressed to name an offwidth pitch rated 12+. I can't think of a single one but then again...I'm not looking for one.
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pbjosh
Sep 3, 2002, 6:34 PM
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12+ offwidth? Here's a list off the top of my head. There are LOTS:
Many pitches of Excalibur on El Cap done by Steve Schneider.
Lucile, Veadawou (spelling?) 12d/13a I think
Paisano Overhang, Suicide, 12c
Heavan, Yosemite, 12c (fists/ow roof)
Owl Roof, Yosemite 12c and WIDE
Big Bob's Big Wedge, Jtree, V5 (ok, mid 12)
Trench Warfare, Texas, 12d
Countless routes at Indian Creek and in the desert, let me go get my guide book and I could probably find 50 12+ or harder OW pitches.
Numerous other pitches on El Cap including some Alex Huber 13- flaring squeeze nightmare and a Randy Leavvit 12+ on Scorched Earth I think it was.
josh
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blacksamba
Sep 5, 2002, 2:13 AM
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This is TOP SECRET!!!!!!!!
I've heard whispered allusions that Stevie Haston has an offwidth project in Monument Valley that is the mother of all offwidths.
A 20 foot v9 boulder problem gains you access to a 150 foot almost dead horizontal roof which if you can suffer through you have to pull 5.12 moves to pull the lip.
Haston climbed well he basically walked up it) Belly full of bad berries .13? as a prep for it and said this route is waay waay waay harder.
anyhow this thread reminded me of that and i was curious if anyone had heard anything else about it.
ben
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mreardon
Sep 10, 2002, 12:49 AM
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Off-widths are a whole 'nother animal. I filmed Kevin Daniels on a boulder problem in Joshua Tree that is somewhere around 5.12. Insane!
My personal hardest off-width per numbers is 5.11 at Josh, but the one that made me go primal was at The Needles - "Gorilla Warfare" 5.10+++ (whatever +++ means?). It took me several times to get past my initial beta of , "do 200 sit-ups, go 3 inches, twist, turn, grunt loudly, get the rattley thigh-bar, grunt scream, cry twice like a 12-year old girl, 200 more sit-ups, another 6 inches, fly into space into the tree." Two weeks later I got it, and to this day have no idea what the moves were....
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dune
Sep 12, 2002, 10:30 PM
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OWs are all about being in shape for them. Think about it, most ppl are climbing stuff where grip strength is primary. Offwidths and narrow chimneys obviously require a different set of muscles. Unless you train for OW and sque chims, all the bouldering, cranking, finger or hand crack climbing won't help all that much specifically to get your OW power up.
I've been on day trips (kinda out of shape too) where I get on some 5.9 OW and it feels like creaping death, but after 3 weeks of consistent climbing a mid 5.10 Squeeze goes relatively smooth.
Personally I think slab is MUCH more technical, and scary.
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bouldertoad
Sep 13, 2002, 5:25 AM
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I would have to agree that slabs are way more technical in nature but offwidths get the award for the most effort needed to succeed. When I was in Hueco I worked Mother of the Future the entire time I was there only to suceed on my lat week there. Talk about tough.........offwidth out a roof....freaking hard.......
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fitz
Sep 13, 2002, 4:22 PM
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Dune, I think of it as different 'flavors'. Someone once told me that, when you listen to Vin Sculley call a Dodger game on the radio, you can see the dew on the grass. But, when you'd listen to the late Harry C. call a Cubs game, you could taste the beer.
A grim slab is usually more mental than physical, balanced on nubbins palming a ripple. As mentioned above, OWs are more like mortal combat, a very physical endeavor.
-jjf
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camhead
Sep 13, 2002, 5:20 PM
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the hardest climbing I've ever done was FOLLOWING an 11+ offwidth. Evil.
dsafanda:
The Big Baby at Indian Creek. 12+. The gear is something like eight #5 camalots. I've never seen anyone do it with style.
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climbjs
Sep 13, 2002, 5:45 PM
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Off-widths are brutal! I have tons of respect for those who choose to climb them! I spent a weekend in Veedauwoo, WY and was floored by the quantity of climbers on the wideies! Bob Scarpelli is amazing!
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boz84
Sep 13, 2002, 6:11 PM
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can anyone explain to me what exactly offwidths are?
I think I have a picture in my head, but not really....
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paulc
Sep 13, 2002, 6:16 PM
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Think of the worst possible size crack. Way too larger for hands, bigger than fists, but not a squeeze chimmney either. You can get your foot in, but maybe not your whole leg.
Fist/fist on fist/cupped hands is the norm, face holds are rare on the harder ones so you need to keep your hands and feet in the crack.
Not only do you need huge gear you need big ball to lead this kind of action. Depending on things it can really suck to bail out of a OW.
Paul
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tylerphillips
Sep 13, 2002, 6:22 PM
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One thing that is harder than off-widths. SQUEEZE OFF-WIDTHS!!!umhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa (evil laugh)
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rockprodigy
Sep 17, 2002, 3:01 PM
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Trench Warfare is in Little Cottonwood Canyon in Utah. It's sick, but not impossible if you know the technique....
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