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caughtinside


Aug 3, 2006, 11:09 AM
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Slings over shoulder?
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Thought I'd start a new topic on this.

I've been climbing with some tripled runners on my harness (which some people insist on calling a 'trad draw'), and some slings over my shoulder with a single biner.

I do this because it really feels faster to me, when I place a cam, to just whip the sling off my shoulder, clip and go. Plus, it does not clutter up my harness, I save carrying one biner, and I don't feel their weight on my shoulders.

I would call this one of those 'personal preference' areas of climbing, but I was suprised as to how much resistance this suggestion got in dbrayback's 'which trad draws' thread.

salamanizer, a strong climber I respect, said you shouldn't have anything over your shoulder but the gear sling. I'd disagree, I can still swing my gear sling around underneath the runners with biners.

Someone else mentioned that you can't get them off your shoulder when you're on hard stuff. Well, to that I say, I can get them off from probably 80% or more of the stances that I can place gear from. It really isn't so difficult. I've had them over my shoulder on plenty of .10 pitches.

I'll probably keep doing what I'm doing because it's working, but I thought I'd open this up for discussion, get other peoples thoughts and flames on this. I really just didn't see the point of placing a cam, taking a tripled runner, and then having one biner hanging off the cam sling not doing anything.

Thoughts? Flames?


Partner ctardi


Aug 3, 2006, 11:16 AM
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I do some of each, that way when I need to extend a nut or hex that doesn't have it's own biner, you can grab a 'trad draw'. I prefer carrying over the sholder for singles though. Doubles are carried on the harness.


msiddens


Aug 3, 2006, 11:34 AM
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Ahh a thread that rings true to my heart. On a good trad pitch I normally roll with a shoulder gear sling, some gear on my waist, and lastly some full length runners, most with a single biner on them. My waist has a number of doubled "quick draw" runners I can use as is while the shoulder runners are great to pull off, clip the piece, and move.

Works for me and has for years. Use whatever you learned on and are comfy with.

MS


tinnchris


Aug 3, 2006, 12:21 PM
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I also throw the slings over my shoulder, but have problems with the ones that are too long to let hang, but too short to double up. They constantly swing around and get in the way. Any ideas for keeping them out of the way?...besides racking them that is.


scuclimber


Aug 3, 2006, 12:35 PM
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In reply to:
I also throw the slings over my shoulder, but have problems with the ones that are too long to let hang, but too short to double up. They constantly swing around and get in the way. Any ideas for keeping them out of the way?...besides racking them that is.

I deliberately avoided buying any of those 36" runners to avoid the problem you have. The only way I can think of is to rack them, but like I said, I don't own any so I haven't had to get inventive.

Dave, I rack my slings the same way that you do. Although I'm not leading .10s on gear yet.

Colin


msiddens


Aug 3, 2006, 12:39 PM
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Hmmm..the shoulder length slings I have are 24 inch while I also keep one or two doubled 48 inchers. The only complaint I have is the 48'ers sometimes tangle in with the 24'ers. Not a big deal though since I color code the slings.

Where a doubled 24 inch quick draw is red, shoulder 24 inch is red and shoulder 48 inch is blue.


Partner epoch
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Aug 3, 2006, 12:55 PM
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I prefer to rack ALL my 'trad' draws on my harness. I can swing my gear sling around without any interference from slings and the what not. It's a horrible feeling when you go for a move and a sling gets snagged on your rack, which in turn gets snagged on some odd feature, thus stopping all upward progress. With an equal amount distributed on both sides, I don't have to worry about letting go on a tricky stance. When I can see that a pitch may require a certian side in, then I shuffle stuff around approperately so that I don't get hosed by not having enough crap on one side.

Alas, I keep my second set of nuts on my harness.... that way if I ever have a completely fucking retarded gumby moment and lose my gear sling I'll have a safe way down...


redlegrangerone


Aug 3, 2006, 1:00 PM
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I hang the 24's and 48's over the shoulder with one biner. I do not double my 48's though. I connect the ends witht he biner, so I can tell them apart. I reach for these when I place a cam. Passive gear gets a tripled draw from my harness.


Partner cracklover


Aug 3, 2006, 1:18 PM
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I have one thought: Why do you care? If it works for you, what's it matter whether other climbers don't like it!?

I happen to carry some of my slings over my shoulder as you do. I'm grateful to whomever it was that introduced the idea to me. It works well for me. And you know what? This shouldn't matter a whit to you. It sure doesn't matter to me how you carry yours. I don't win extra points from the fact that you carry your slings like I do. You don't win extra points because I use your method either.

Share your ideas with others, take what works, discard what doesn't. It's not a popularity contest.

GO


caughtinside


Aug 3, 2006, 1:52 PM
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In reply to:
I have one thought: Why do you care? If it works for you, what's it matter whether other climbers don't like it!?

I happen to carry some of my slings over my shoulder as you do. I'm grateful to whomever it was that introduced the idea to me. It works well for me. And you know what? This shouldn't matter a whit to you. It sure doesn't matter to me how you carry yours. I don't win extra points from the fact that you carry your slings like I do. You don't win extra points because I use your method either.

Share your ideas with others, take what works, discard what doesn't. It's not a popularity contest.

GO

Um, to like, generate a little discussion about climbing? To try to understand the thoughts and rationales of other climbers?

But here's a more practical application. I care, because it's nice when you're climbing and swinging leads to rack the same way as your partner. It is by no means critical, but if you and your partner use the same racking methods, things stay better organized and you can move faster.

Suppose I'm swinging leads on a multipitch with someone who hates the slings over the shoulder? we have to work it out ahead of time, bring extra biners, etc. Again, it isn't a huge deal. Sorry you feel it is unworthy of discussion.


msiddens


Aug 3, 2006, 1:55 PM
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Cracklover, exactly my point and the intent behind my original post on the thread. Ask ten people for an opinion and we'll likely all have different ones. So long as safety isn't a factor use what works for ya!


toejam


Aug 3, 2006, 1:59 PM
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In reply to:
've been climbing with some tripled runners on my harness (which some people insist on calling a 'trad draw')
Dude, that's like two whole syllables shorter. With the energy I've saved from calling them trad draws, I'm able to redpoint a whole letter grade higher! I like a mix of over-the-shoulder and on the harness. Most of my trad draws wind up over the shoulder anyway as they are cleaned, and I don't bother to re-triple them unless its an easy stance, or I have spare time at a belay.

In reply to:
I really just didn't see the point of placing a cam, taking a tripled runner, and then having one biner hanging off the cam sling not doing anything.
If its a good stance, I'll often use the cam biner for the clip, snag the extra biner from the draw and either clip it opposite and opposed on the rope, or hang it on one of the runners over my shoulder for later use.

In reply to:
I have one thought: Why do you care?
Why do you care if he cares? Its a discussion site, pretty much the whole point is to debate any and all minutia related to climbing. Other than dodging work and fantasizing about being outside that is.


Partner artm


Aug 3, 2006, 2:13 PM
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Okay I'll bite.
I hate slings around my neck.
Why?
I have a 7 inch long scar that required over 70 stitches to repair (both external and internal) which left me with some nerve damage.
I hate it when anything touches my neck.
Incidentely this is also part of the reason I use a double gear sling even though it makes me appear to be green and bendy.
The double lets the gear hang from my shoulders and not touch my neck.
I won't begin to go into how much I dislike racking on my harness, so don't suggest that as an alternative.


trebork2
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Aug 3, 2006, 2:34 PM
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I carry slings over my shoulder all the time. They are perfect for just clipping and going. I do keep the double carabiner slings on the harness though.


Partner cracklover


Aug 3, 2006, 2:57 PM
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In reply to:
I hate slings around my neck.
I have a 7 inch long scar that required over 70 stitches to repair (both external and internal) which left me with some nerve damage.
I hate it when anything touches my neck.

Best answer yet. All others can now retire.

And yes, nothing wrong with discussing anything and everything. Just thought it was about as silly as the "what's the best shoe" threads.

But do carry on!

GO


greenketch


Aug 3, 2006, 3:14 PM
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I generally have a mix as well. I don't find it a challenge to get them off the shoulder. My normal setup is to have singles set up as trad draws on my harness. Then I have a couple doubles over the shoulder with the ends hooked using a single biner. The occasional triple that I carry (mostly for anchor building if I know some extension will be required) is carried all daisy chained up on the harness. With this setup I always get the runner I want and there is no confusion. the end coupled doubles pull straight off when you undo the biner.

But then again if it is multi pitch my partners and I always work out a consensus before starting and that is how I do it that day.


caughtinside


Aug 3, 2006, 3:47 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I hate slings around my neck.
I have a 7 inch long scar that required over 70 stitches to repair (both external and internal) which left me with some nerve damage.
I hate it when anything touches my neck.

Best answer yet. All others can now retire.

And yes, nothing wrong with discussing anything and everything. Just thought it was about as silly as the "what's the best shoe" threads.

But do carry on!

GO

What kind of cams do you have Gabe? What kind of biners? I am desperately trying to win the popularity contest.


Partner cracklover


Aug 3, 2006, 9:07 PM
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Well, there was a tone of "Who thinks which one is right" to the original post. But I know, you're absolutely right - my post was far more silly and pointless than yours. Forget it. Talk about whatever's fun for you to talk about!

Later!

GO


jaybro


Aug 3, 2006, 10:30 PM
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"a completely fucking retarded gumby moment" -G.E.T.S!

Now to use it before I lose it!


newbierockstar


Aug 3, 2006, 11:23 PM
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....*shrug*....I just do whatever my husband tells me to do :lol: :D :wink:

:righton:


shakylegs


Aug 4, 2006, 6:53 AM
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I don't carry slings over my shoulders any more, for two reasons. One: You always need that arm to be free, (i.e. if the slings are resting on your right shoulder, you need your left arm to be free), which really sucks if it's the only stance you have.
Two: With double ropes, you rarely need to extend your draws. Mmmm, double ropes.
So, instead, I'll use tripled slings, and on those occasions that I do need an extended draw, it's a quick remove-biner/replace-biner-through-single strand.

(Um, was it okay to answer, or have we all decided that this was a stupid thread? I get so confused by all the self-important righteousness on this board these days.)


bill413


Aug 4, 2006, 7:30 AM
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Like others, I carry a mix; with some single length and one (or occaisionally two) double length ones on my shoulder. The double length one is clipped "end to end" with a biner (like redlegrangerone does). This allows me to remove it by unclipping the biner even if that hand can't let go.

Oh, yeah - one of my pre-climb checks - "slings over the rack, not under."


shockabuku


Aug 4, 2006, 8:38 AM
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In reply to:
...Oh, yeah - one of my pre-climb checks - "slings over the rack, not under."

Yep, that's the one I forget the most. It's nearly impossible to get the sling out from under the rack.

I carry most of my singles "trad draw" style on my harness, but carry one to two singles and a folder over double over the shoulder. Lately I was thinking the same thought as the OP: why not just carry them all over the shoulder with a single biner? It would save on the total number of biners I carry and the slings usually end up getting extended anyway, as someone else already mentioned. Being difficult to access is a definite issue in some circumstances. It's a good point that it has to be coordinated with your partner, however.


bill413


Aug 4, 2006, 9:37 AM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
...Oh, yeah - one of my pre-climb checks - "slings over the rack, not under."

Yep, that's the one I forget the most. It's nearly impossible to get the sling out from under the rack.
Good to know I'm not the only one. :oops:

In reply to:
Lately I was thinking the same thought as the OP: why not just carry them all over the shoulder with a single biner?


I find that on many lines (especially with double ropes) I do not need to extend the slings. So, having them preshortened makes sense. If I go with all short, or all long, I inevitably have to futz with some to make my protection just right.
Also, when you're in a stance where you can't get one hand free (and you've already used that doubled sling) I can get the draw style sling off of my rack with either hand.


joshy8200


Aug 4, 2006, 9:59 AM
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Used to be that I always carried my slings over the shoulder...then I thought that making them into draws was the best thing since sliced bread. That lasted for about a year...now I'm back to carrying them both over the shoulder and on the harness. It's the best of both worlds.

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