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pro4pros


Aug 7, 2006, 6:20 PM
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Sport crack?  (North_America: United_States: Arizona: Southern: Mt__Lemmon)
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On a recent trip to windy point my partner Fred and I noticed a brand new shiny boltline about five feet from the highway, in the area we would later understand to be 'The Stones & Colonel Birdseye' area. While climbing and clipping bolts (about every 6') an odd sensation was experienced - clipping with one hand, while the other lay comfortably in a bomber jam. After finishing the route another group of climbers arrived and informed us that what we were climbing was actually trad rout established in 77 by Dave Baker called The Pits, 5.9+.
Later I called Dave to see if he had given permission to add bolts to this route, he said he had not. This route will be chopped, it is only a matter of time. Assentionists - please remove your bolts and patch your holes, this, all style asside was an established route. Please if you ever need to borrow a copy of the Lemon guide or wish to understand the workings of trad climbing give me a call (5209772649). Please fix this mistake, otherwise others will chop your rout and take your hangers. I will help you chop the route if you need a partner. Peace. --Meghan C.


valeberga


Aug 7, 2006, 7:19 PM
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Re: Sport crack? [In reply to]
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BUSTED!! :lol:

Seriously who the f' would waste their time bolting a hand crack when it takes all of 2 seconds to place a cam. :roll:


valeberga


Aug 7, 2006, 7:21 PM
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ps. http://mountaingear.com/...20C4/item/626001/N/0


pro4pros


Aug 26, 2006, 11:59 AM
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Re: Sport crack? [In reply to]
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This is not the only established gear climb to be bolted, I have learned. As soon as I have time I will make it a point to chop every bolt placed by this "rout setter."


braxtron


Aug 27, 2006, 12:12 PM
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Re: Sport crack? [In reply to]
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Do tell who the perpetrator is...


jaybro


Aug 27, 2006, 1:24 PM
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A bunch of this shit has been going on at Mt Lemmon for some time now ~20+ yrs.

"protect freeclimbs with RP's? Eeeewwwwww."

Good luck!


pro4pros


Aug 27, 2006, 7:32 PM
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I wish I knew the name of this predator, I only know his style: well placed Pagan bolts, typically about 5-6ft apart. The longer this rout stands, and the more 'sport cracks' that appear on mt. lemon, the angrier I will become.

**Several of the gear routs on Gumbie wall have become all sport routs. Woo hoo! Ill never have to carry my rack on a five minute approach again! (sarcasm) :x


Partner gunksgoer


Aug 27, 2006, 10:00 PM
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Re: Sport crack? [In reply to]
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Honestly though, why would you want to spend the money on hangers, bolts and a bit when you could sew something up with gear?


pro4pros


Aug 28, 2006, 9:39 AM
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These are the questions that keep me up at night.


renobdarb


Aug 28, 2006, 9:48 AM
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In reply to:
Honestly though, why would you want to spend the money on hangers, bolts and a bit when you could sew something up with gear?

...because whoever did it is a wuss and doesn't want to man up and spend even money on pro. :roll:


scottd


Oct 31, 2006, 6:09 AM
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Re: Sport crack? [In reply to]
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Has this been chopped yet???
I'd be happy to help/ do the bolt removal. The bolter needs to be informed about this so it won't happen again. I'm all for chopping retrobolt jobs, but not if they are going to be re-drilled again, causing further damage. If someone chops it, PLEASE fill the holes, and do a good job. The only thing uglier than a retrobolt is a bad chop job.


Partner j_ung


Oct 31, 2006, 6:16 AM
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In reply to:
I'm all for chopping retrobolt jobs, but not if they are going to be re-drilled again, causing further damage.

I agree. If the real goal is to keep bolts off the route, I think it's important to open a dialogue wth the bolter before any chopping occurs. pro4pros, your first post is excellent. :)


jamesdebella


Mar 6, 2008, 7:24 AM
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Re: [j_ung] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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Quick! Call Ken Nichols.


bobruef


Mar 6, 2008, 7:33 AM
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Re: [jamesdebella] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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jamesdebella wrote:
Quick! Call Ken Nichols.

(shudder)... kaiser sose!?...


el_layclimber


Mar 6, 2008, 7:35 AM
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Re: [pro4pros] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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There are plenty of sport routes on Mount Lemmon. I especially find the idea of retrobolting a Dave Baker route to be despicable. What he did up there is an important part of the history of the area.
I agree with finding the person to explain why that isn't cool, but I don't think it should be a negotiation. Chop it.


zeke_sf


Mar 6, 2008, 7:47 AM
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el_layclimber wrote:
There are plenty of sport routes on Mount Lemmon. I especially find the idea of retrobolting a Dave Baker route to be despicable. What he did up there is an important part of the history of the area.
I agree with finding the person to explain why that isn't cool, but I don't think it should be a negotiation. Chop it.
He's had two years to do it now.


dynosore


Mar 6, 2008, 8:07 AM
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Pull bolts, use on the bolter, your choice....Laugh


drjghl


Mar 7, 2008, 9:54 AM
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Re: [pro4pros] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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This type of mindset is unfortunate. Why the f--- is this stuff happening?

I wonder, where along the path one takes to becoming a climber, someone gets it in their head to place a bolt next to a crack that takes gear.

I don't know how to pull a bolt properly and patch the hole. If anyone plans to go out and needs some help, I wouldn't mind learning this skill, so drop me a line if you need a partner.


chossmonkey


Mar 8, 2008, 3:07 PM
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Re: [dynosore] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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dynosore wrote:



Pull bolts, use on the bolter, your choice....Laugh
Using on the bolter and or necromancer is fine. But crowbarring out bolts just leaves a mess. There are better, easier ways.


eastvillage


Mar 8, 2008, 4:25 PM
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Re: [drjghl] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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drjghl wrote:
This type of mindset is unfortunate. Why the f--- is this stuff happening?

Just another clueless dip shit who's blinded by his sense of entitlement.


miavzero


Mar 8, 2008, 6:59 PM
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Re: [drjghl] Sport crack? [In reply to]
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drjghl wrote:
This type of mindset is unfortunate. Why the f--- is this stuff happening?

I wonder, where along the path one takes to becoming a climber, someone gets it in their head to place a bolt next to a crack that takes gear.

I don't know how to pull a bolt properly and patch the hole. If anyone plans to go out and needs some help, I wouldn't mind learning this skill, so drop me a line if you need a partner.

The world needs new bolt-choppers about as much as it needs new retro-bolters.


miavzero


Mar 8, 2008, 7:01 PM
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eastvillage wrote:
drjghl wrote:
This type of mindset is unfortunate. Why the f--- is this stuff happening?

Just another clueless dip shit who's blinded by his sense of entitlement.

These people exist on both sides of the argument.


pyrosis


Mar 8, 2008, 9:22 PM
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miavzero wrote:
These people exist on both sides of the argument.

Maybe so but on this particular issue the answer has always been clear. It is absolutely not OK to add drilled protection to an established climb without permission of the first ascencionist. No more than it is ok to drill yourself a nice pocket because you can't pull a move...

-T


sbaclimber


Mar 8, 2008, 9:28 PM
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pyrosis wrote:
No more than it is ok to drill yourself a nice pocket because you can't pull a move...
Tell that to the guys in Spain Wink


notapplicable


Mar 8, 2008, 10:03 PM
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bobruef wrote:
jamesdebella wrote:
Quick! Call Ken Nichols.

(shudder)... kaiser sose!?...


SlySlySly

Nice reference.

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