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skatedork
Jul 4, 2006, 8:22 PM
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I recently got a new job and a nice upgrade in salary so I decided to treat myself to some climbing gear before I start saving for a house, but I don't know how much I really need. My philosophy is I rather have too much than too little so I was thinking maybe 3 full racks. I plan on leading climbs at The Gunks, Cathedral Ledge, and other multipitch climbs. I may not be doing all these climbs right away, but I like to plan ahead. what do you guys think?
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alpie
Jul 4, 2006, 8:25 PM
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Registered: Feb 22, 2006
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Buy 4 racks and give me one!
Seriously, 3 full racks is a lot of gear.... Are you planning splitters where you will need several of the same size? I have a full rack and working on a double. Full Metolius and half a rack of BD, plus 2 sets of stoppers and I get up pretty much anything.
If you can, find partners you also trad, it'll save you a bit if they have gear 2.---But hey, If you got the money, go for it.
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double
Jul 4, 2006, 9:17 PM
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Registered: May 29, 2003
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I think you'll be a gear whore. Why not put that money aside, and buy the gear as the need arises? That way when the latest 6 axle cam comes out, you can go buy it without having to add a fourth rack.
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sbaclimber
Jul 4, 2006, 9:44 PM
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I don't think 3 full racks is too much overkill (maybe a little :wink: ) depending on what you define as a 'full rack'.
...pro only....
From what I have seen so far, a full gritstone rack consists of a set of wires, a couple hexes and maybe a cam or two. Now 3 of those would be a very reasonable NE rack.
Personally, I would define a standard rack as a set of wires, set of cams (w/o extreme sizes), and maybe a few extras (pink tricam, hexes, etc). A 'full rack' on the other hand, would double up on some things like wires and usefull cam sizes. If you had 3 of those, you would probably end up with a minimum of 6 of certian sizes of things.....that's an Indian Creek rack!
Sure, go for doubles and triples of certain things, but try going with various manufacturers and types of gear (tricams, lowe balls, etc) for the best effect.
Edit 'cause I can't spell
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tradrenn
Jul 4, 2006, 9:57 PM
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Registered: Jan 16, 2005
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Since you mention Gunks
This is what I use mostly:
Small stoppers #4 to # 8 ( 2 of each, sometimes triple )
Bigger stoppers #9 to # 13 ( 1 of each )
Camalots #s .75, .75, 1, 1, 2, 2, 3, 3, 4, 5 ( just dont take all of them on one climb )
Aliens: Black, Blue, 2 Greens, 2 Yellow, Grey, Red
Tricams: 2 pink, 2 red, brown, purple, blue
1 Screamer draw ( 2 would be better, 3 would be best )
Don't get 3 racks just get one like mine ( more less ) and you would be OK
Money saved use for road trips, road trips are the coolest and you get to meet so many cool people ( climbers )
Welcome to trad climbing, hope this helps
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skatedork
Jul 4, 2006, 11:08 PM
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So far I am looking at two sets of the below:
Wired Hexcentrics #4-11
Padded Gear Sling
Anodized Stoppers #4-13
(6) 60cm x 12mm Spectra Runners
Camalot C4 #.5, .75, 1-4
and one set of tricams
.5 Pink 26 15.9-28.1 8.2
1 Red 35 19.1-30.2 8.8
1.5 Brown 50 25.4-38.1 11.1
2 Purple 55 28.6-41.3 11.1
2.5 Black 77 31.8-47.7 13.3
3 Blue 90 38.1-53.9 13.3
3.5 White 117 41.3-60.3 17.7
4 Green 138 44.5-63.5 17.7
5 Red 120 57.2-88.9 20
6 Yellow 200 73.1-104.8 20
7 Orange 264 92.1-139.7 20
I can get all this for about 1500 new with no tax and free shipping. based on the responses I have seen this should last me awhile :) I also have a full set of Black Diamond hexcentic nuts already. Any feedback?
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sbaclimber
Jul 4, 2006, 11:15 PM
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Replace one set of hexes (no-one needs 2 sets) with a set of lowe balls, and you should be good to go!
Actually, you probably will not find much use for the larger tricams, but some people do still swear by them.
I also forgot to mention small cams in my post above, but you might want to consider a few of them as well (opinions vary as to which are better, but Aliens and Metolius are popular).
Edit 'cause Metolius only has one 'l'
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kobaz
Jul 4, 2006, 11:48 PM
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In reply to: So far I am looking at two sets of the below: Wired Hexcentrics #4-11 Padded Gear Sling Anodized Stoppers #4-13 (6) 60cm x 12mm Spectra Runners Camalot C4 #.5, .75, 1-4
So far so good, but I would get at least two double length runners
In reply to: and one set of tricams
Hold on there, unless you plan on doing really funky climbing where you absolutly need a #7 tricam, just get pink red and black
I love being a gear whore just as much as the next guy but don't bother buying stuff just to buy it because you'll most likely never use it.
I love my rack, here's what I got:
10 shoulder length slings
3 double length slings
set of wild country nuts
set of trango brass nuts
set of bd hexes
set of metolius powercams (1-8)
set of trango flexcams (.5-9)
two screamers
purple big bro
nut tool, tons of biners, and all the usual jazz
i also have a bunch of short quickdraws for sport climbing (if you're into that)
oh, and get yourself a rope bag too
The only thing I am missing are doubles in 3 and 3.5 inch cams, i really wish i had them on some of the routes i've been on.
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wuontherocks
Jul 5, 2006, 12:22 AM
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I'm no expert, but I would have only one set of nuts & of hexes, and like sbaclimber said drop the big tricams (above black or even smaller)
Instead, I'd add Alien Hybrids (can't remember the number of times the two lobes on one side of my cams were waving at me). For the Gunks, double up on the pink tricam.
I would save some money, because chances are that even if you have 4 racks, you'll keep on buying more gear. There is no such thing as a full rack!
I started as a rack wh0re, so I got to test my friends' gear before starting to buy. Wouldn't want to be stuck with 4 sets of something you don't like :shock: but then you could sell them like new for really cheap on the forum :wink:
Enjoy the shopping!
Mick
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skatedork
Jul 5, 2006, 7:11 PM
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Great feedback guys! :) I am adding to my shopping cart as we speak and I have:
2 Sets of
(Wired Hexcentrics #4-11
Padded Gear Sling
Anodized Stoppers #4-13
(6) 60cm x 12mm Spectra Runners
Camalot C4 #.5, .75, 1-4 )
I know I don't need all the hexcentrics, but they come in the bundle package and it seems to be a really good price.
Tri-Cams
.5 x 2
1 x 2
1.5 x 2
2 x 2
12 Black Diamond Quickdraws
I have never used the Trango BallNutz or Big Bro so I am hesitant in getting them to start with. I will be adding some CCH aliens to my collection come next week. This should be enough to get me started in the trad world. Any last feedback?
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sbaclimber
Jul 5, 2006, 9:36 PM
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In reply to: Any last feedback?
You are right to not get tubes, and lowe balls are kind of a specialty item (even though I and some others find them very usefull)
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musicman1586
Jul 5, 2006, 9:56 PM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2005
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In reply to: Great feedback guys! :) I am adding to my shopping cart as we speak and I have: 2 Sets of (Wired Hexcentrics #4-11 Padded Gear Sling Anodized Stoppers #4-13 (6) 60cm x 12mm Spectra Runners Camalot C4 #.5, .75, 1-4 ) I know I don't need all the hexcentrics, but they come in the bundle package and it seems to be a really good price. Tri-Cams .5 x 2 1 x 2 1.5 x 2 2 x 2 12 Black Diamond Quickdraws I have never used the Trango BallNutz or Big Bro so I am hesitant in getting them to start with. I will be adding some CCH aliens to my collection come next week. This should be enough to get me started in the trad world. Any last feedback?
I hate to play devil's advocate here, but I really would say wait for a while to buy any gear at all except for maybe a set of nuts. I have several reasons for saying that. For one, if your just getting started in the trad world, you can't have any clue if you'll really like the gear your buying or not. Sure everyone raves about Camalots, but I know a number of people that hate them, they just don't like how they place and/or feel. Same goes for hexes in general, some people love theirs, others wish they had never bought them and saved the money. So I'd say find some people that climb trad, go out with them, play around with all of their gear first and get a taste for things and then decide what it is that you like and what you don't. On top of that, you probably don't know your local trad areas well enough to know what gear you'll need either. As the saying goes on this website "everywhere is different" you don't know what you will and won't need at the particular crags around you. Get a taste for what your really getting yourself into before you fall into the market advertising frenzy. In other words get some real life opinions and experience first.
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sbaclimber
Jul 5, 2006, 10:11 PM
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In reply to: On top of that, you probably don't know your local trad areas well enough to know what gear you'll need either. As the saying goes on this website "everywhere is different" you don't know what you will and won't need at the particular crags around you. |
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musicman1586
Jul 5, 2006, 10:18 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: On top of that, you probably don't know your local trad areas well enough to know what gear you'll need either. As the saying goes on this website "everywhere is different" you don't know what you will and won't need at the particular crags around you. I think that is why he stated where he plans on climbing and what type of climbing he wants to do there, so people who do know the areas could advise.... :idea:
He never states whether he has ever been out to these areas however, he has never even said whether he's ever even placed a single piece of gear or not, so all of that is written as a very general statement to be applied where it needs to be and left out where not.
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jaybro
Jul 5, 2006, 10:28 PM
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3 sets @ wires, Tcu's, camalots.
10 slings
25 Quikdraws
150 biners.
is a good start
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mcfoley
Jul 5, 2006, 11:14 PM
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2 sets of stoppers (2 dif brands actually gives you more flexibility with placement)
BD camalots (Doubles of #.75 to #4) (triple up on #1-#3) (singles of 4.5 -#6)
Metolius TCU's - 2 sets
Hex's buy these one at a time you might not use them as much as you think...BUT GREAT to have a few on the rack.
Also remember...unless you are climbing alone your "friends" will most likely have some gear too (...or should). So when you head out to IC you should be alright...
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c4c
Jul 6, 2006, 12:22 AM
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don't you think that is a bit excessive?
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tradrenn
Jul 6, 2006, 12:31 AM
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In reply to: 12 Black Diamond Quickdraws
Don't use dogbone, those are good on bolts and routes that go up in straight line, most trad routes don't.
In reply to: I have never used the Trango BallNutz or Big Bro so I am hesitant in getting them to start with. I will be adding some CCH aliens to my collection come next week. This should be enough to get me started in the trad world. Any last feedback?
Skip Black Alien for now.
BallNutz and Big Bros are specialty gear and in my opinion you will not need them for first 2 - 4 years, unless you climb 5 days a week
Padded Gear Sling: get one with 4 gear loops, it will keep your gear nicely organized in your pack. Short 12 inch sling is useful for clipping your draws, cordalette, belaying device and other gadgets.
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renohandjams
Jul 6, 2006, 12:42 AM
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I have about 20 cams and I started out getting a full rack of tech friends all the way up to the number 6, but I find where I go I leave my smallest ones and my two larger ones at home.
I'm a gear whore, but my set works fine because usually I climb with people that have just as big of a set, and if we need more we can always borrow our OTHER friends set of cams for the weekend. I'd go to the OR show and get a good idea of what cam line you are going to get. I can't think of anything worse than getting 3 sets of what you might think is the BEST CAM EVER, only to find out two months later when you try your buddies max cam, or link cam, or power cam, or flex friend, etc.. etc.. that you would have rather got that instead.
Oh! I would recommend setting your self up with TONS of helium biners for each cam! Or the new DMM shield biner. I would if I had the money.
Can't go wrong with two sets of nuts (throw a set of Omega Pacific scalloped nuts in there), great set.
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renohandjams
Jul 6, 2006, 12:49 AM
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Try before you buy if possible from a friend. It is all about what YOU like, not what other people say they like. For instance I rarely use my hexes and I don't feel comfortable using trinuts when I can use scalloped nuts. It would have been a mistake for me (not other people) to get a whole set of tri nuts. I
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blitzkrieg_climber13
Jul 6, 2006, 1:24 AM
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DO IT!!! GET ALL THE GEAR YOU CAN AFFORD. THEN SHOW IT OFF IN ALL THE THREADS ABOUT HOW BIG YOUR RACK IS. POST LOTS OF PICTURES AND MAKE PEOPLE ENVY YOU!
not one word of this is serious. except for the part about getting all the gear you can afford. i would.
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bcinlas4
Aug 8, 2006, 5:43 AM
Post #22 of 27
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Im also shopping. You've mentioned twice that you are geting a great price on this stuff. Where are you getting it from?
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qtm
Aug 8, 2006, 2:30 PM
Post #23 of 27
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In reply to: I have about 20 cams and I started out getting a full rack of tech friends all the way up to the number 6, but I find where I go I leave my smallest ones and my two larger ones at home. I'm a gear whore, but my set works fine because usually I climb with people that have just as big of a set, and if we need more we can always borrow our OTHER friends set of cams for the weekend. I'd go to the OR show and get a good idea of what cam line you are going to get. I can't think of anything worse than getting 3 sets of what you might think is the BEST CAM EVER, only to find out two months later when you try your buddies max cam, or link cam, or power cam, or flex friend, etc.. etc.. that you would have rather got that instead. Oh! I would recommend setting your self up with TONS of helium biners for each cam! Or the new DMM shield biner. I would if I had the money. Can't go wrong with two sets of nuts (throw a set of Omega Pacific scalloped nuts in there), great set.
20 cams doesn't make you a gear whore, that's barely two sets of cams. A gear whore has at least three times the number of cams they'll ever need, and leave at least 2/3rds at home. If you have 50 cams and only bring 15 with you to the crag, then you can call yourself a gear whore. Or a well equipped crack climber.
I like the DMM shields, great when you have a lot of gear crammed on your gear loops.
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crazygirl
Aug 8, 2006, 3:49 PM
Post #24 of 27
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why double up on tricams?
what is this obsession that gunks climbers have with the tricams? 2 of them, pink and maybe red are enough. (i think i might have used one on a route a few years ago)
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rocknice2
Aug 8, 2006, 3:59 PM
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Toooooooooooo much gear might as well slap a couple of glazed hams to your ass.
Your making one of two classic beginner mistakes. You've got money so overkill the rake.The other is not enough $ so the rack is ultralight. I was about to make the first mistake myself. I went to my local climbing store and argued with the own for an hour about how much crap I needed. I wanted to buy more but he finally talked me into buying a reasonable beginner rack. Needless to say that guy became one of my best friends.
My suggestion is since your just starting out on trad DON'T PUSH both limits! Start on something very easy for you. Now this will probably be protected by a hand crack(usually easier than finger or fist).
2 sets wires
1 set cams (except size below finger and above fist)
2 or 3 cams in the hand range (different sizes)
(when doubling up, choose a cam that has an optimal operating range between the optimal ranges of your primary set)
! stay away(for now) from all those tinny cams
? tricams pink to brown(these take care and skill to place)
6-8 QD's
4 shoulder length slings
2 double shoulder length slings
2 long cordelettes for anchor
10-15 free biners
1 NUT TOOL
as you get more experienced you'll have a better idea of what you need
Take a trip to Canada the gear is alot cheaper here, even the stuff that's made in the States. The savings = free trip
GOOD LUCK
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