Forums: Climbing Information: Beginners:
Stuck in a rut
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Beginners

Premier Sponsor:

 


fenwld82


Aug 8, 2006, 2:12 PM
Post #1 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 4, 2006
Posts: 1

Stuck in a rut
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I’ve been climbing for almost a year and unfortunately, due to my job, I have only been able to be a “weekend warrior.” I have fallen in love with climbing but I live 50min from the gym and about 2 hours from any real rock so with my crazy work schedule I usually to go to the gym at least a week if I’m lucky. It seems that I’ve come to a stand still and I’m not getting any better. Should I try to lose weight, lift more? What can I do when I’m unable to go to the gym to help my technique?

My other dilemma is that I’ve really only climbed with my climbing partner outside. Because he has issues with being extremely safe I haven’t gotten the chance to lead or set up TR. Now that he’s leaving I have no one to climb with but I would like to get some of my other friends into it. Since I have no experience with any of these things should I go with a guide? Maybe take some classes?

Thanks for all your help! :D


mushroomsamba


Aug 8, 2006, 2:22 PM
Post #2 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Apr 24, 2006
Posts: 389

Re: Stuck in a rut [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I've kinda been in a rut myself actually. I'm stuck between a v3 and v4 prety much. just keep climbing as much as possible and eventually you'll get out. somtimes all it takes is a little effort and somthing will just click with your climbing. if you have a place to build one and the cash, you could consider building a woodie.

as far as getting a partner goes, try your gym, there are sure to be people who you could climb with. also if you dont have the knowledge of setting up a TR, you can allways boulder


climbindrummer


Aug 8, 2006, 2:49 PM
Post #3 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jul 23, 2006
Posts: 52

Re: Stuck in a rut [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I was a similar situation recently. I live about 45 min from the gym I belong to (though it's only 10 min from work -- I usually only go after work anyway) and I don't know the local area at all so I'm out of luck for outdoor stuff without a partner.

The gym is definitely a good place to find a partner or two. Put up a posting looking for an experienced partner. Ask the people who work there if they know of anyone who's looking for partners (or that at least that will let you tag along on an afternoon) or if they have any trips coming up. Take a class if you have the time; you'll get some good information and probably make a friend or two that shares your enthusiasm. The advantage to finding someone at the gym is that you can watch them and get a sense for whether they just talk a good game or actually know something (though, of course, sending that badazz red route at the gym won't tell you whether they know a bomber anchor from a daisy-chained death trap :wink: ).

Another great resource for partners is right under your nose. Just put up a posting under Forums>Partners>(location) and you're bound to get a response or two.


patmay81


Aug 9, 2006, 7:55 PM
Post #4 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 3, 2006
Posts: 1081

Re: Stuck in a rut [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I know what you mean about being far from anything climbing. I recently moved to the Oregon coast, there's nothing worth climbing here. its about 2 hours to the nearest wall or gym. i don't know what advice to give as far as getting out of the rut other than just climb when you can.
as far as the partner-less climbing goes, i haven't had a climbing partner for about a year now, i just set up a fixed top rope and climb with my grigri. this is an expensive piece of gear, but a good one for solo climbs. you can also use it for solo leads, but you have to back clean. and you'd better be able to build a bomber anchor at the base of the climb. well, good luck.


stymingersfink


Aug 9, 2006, 10:53 PM
Post #5 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250

Re: Stuck in a rut [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

one word:

Buildering


coming soon to an urban area near you!


foeslts16


Aug 9, 2006, 11:16 PM
Post #6 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Dec 27, 2002
Posts: 210

Re: Stuck in a rut [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

... i can't either, thats a weird problem. it looks like it is having trouble with the auto rollover tags (little description when you mouse over a word) on the word "Buildering"


omegaprime


Aug 10, 2006, 3:48 AM
Post #7 of 7 (1402 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 2, 2004
Posts: 308

Re: Stuck in a rut [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

If you really like to improve on climbing in general, I guess there's no better way than to climb.
The gym is 1 hour away from where I work, on a bad traffic day its 1.5 hours. But still I go there after work at least 2 times a week to train.

Why? Because I'm not motivated to do any other exercises besides climbing, and I find the more you climb, the faster you progress. Of course adding other types of training to the mix would help condition your body, but nothing beats climbing. :wink:


Forums : Climbing Information : Beginners

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook