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off_route
Aug 13, 2006, 6:15 AM
Post #1 of 17
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Registered: May 28, 2004
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So a climbing friend was relaying a story where he read in the guidebook "takes pro to 4 inches" He looked at the finger crack and said, "Nawwwww" The crack widened, and his sphincter constricted. Once at the belay station another climber followed up and when asked how the climb went he said, "Shit! I wish I had some bigger pro!"
So how large of gear do y'all routinely carry. I know it depends a lot on the area and grade but what's the largest size cam/hex/tricam that you ALWAYS carry and what's the largest size you sometimes carry?
I figure bigbros and #6camalots are specialty gear only taken when you know ahead of time that the route calls for it. I've got gear up to the #4friend and was considering a #5 friend although I wonder if it'll primarily be used to keep my pack at the bottom of the climb from blowing away in the wind...
Off_Route
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beesty511
Aug 13, 2006, 6:27 AM
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In reply to: So how large of gear do y'all routinely carry. |
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kobaz
Aug 13, 2006, 6:34 AM
Post #3 of 17
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If I've never climbed a particular route and the guidebook doesn't say "bring to x inches", and the route is more than one pitch (where you can't eyeball what size gear you'll need) I generally bring up the kitchen sink, doubles of every size from a blue tcu to 3.5 inches. It just depends on the area. In the gunks I don't usuallly need anything more than 3.5, but there is an occasional route that takes 4 inch pro.
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epoch
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Aug 13, 2006, 1:50 PM
Post #4 of 17
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When a guide book or a friend states that it will swallow gear up to XX inches, I bring approperate gear up to XX inches... If I'm climbing at somewhere new and there is no racking beta, you bet you ass that I have at least one big something to wedge into place in case I really do need it.... Sometimes it's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it... <
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off_route
Aug 13, 2006, 2:37 PM
Post #5 of 17
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In reply to: When a guide book or a friend states that it will swallow gear up to XX inches, I bring approperate gear up to XX inches... If I'm climbing at somewhere new and there is no racking beta, you bet you ass that I have at least one big something to wedge into place in case I really do need it.... Sometimes it's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it... <
So how big is big? Wait, let me rephrase that. :oops: If you are approaching a route without beta or book info do ypu take a #4cam, #5? Larger?
Off_Route
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patto
Aug 13, 2006, 3:53 PM
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My big gear is a #3.5 Camalot, and 9,10,11 hexes.
At minimum I take up my #9 hex, I love it. For long multipitches where I don't know what to expect I take it all up. Though the 11 hex is sometimes left in my bag.
(Last month I had to bail off a climb, I was damn glad I had the #11 hex there, it made me feel safe. I went back the next day to finish the climb and get my hex back :) )
However as said before, it depends on where you climb what gear is needed.
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angry
Aug 13, 2006, 3:59 PM
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It really depends.
Some areas have so many wide sections that at least a 4camalot (old stlye) is assumed on every route(Vedauwoo, Escalante). Other areas ( indian creek, yosemite) rarely get wide without warning. I try to avoid lugging more than a 3.5 friend. Still others (devils tower), I'd be happy with nothing but a double set of stoppers for most routes.
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epoch
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Aug 13, 2006, 4:23 PM
Post #8 of 17
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In reply to: In reply to: When a guide book or a friend states that it will swallow gear up to XX inches, I bring approperate gear up to XX inches... If I'm climbing at somewhere new and there is no racking beta, you bet you ass that I have at least one big something to wedge into place in case I really do need it.... Sometimes it's better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it... <
So how big is big? Wait, let me rephrase that. :oops: If you are approaching a route without beta or book info do ypu take a #4cam, #5? Larger?
Off_RouteUsually it is a #4 Camalot/C4... By scoping and estimating I've brought up to my #6 and a big bro. If I find I won't need them, I let them stay on route for my 2nd to carry, or I'll leave them in my bag. There are times that I don't really feel like hiking 3 miles out to retrieve my big stuff.... Though my first time at the gunks, it was reccommended to me to bring a standard East Coast rack, and I left my big stuff at home. There are some climbs there that would have swallowed up somthing huge...
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petsfed
Aug 13, 2006, 4:48 PM
Post #9 of 17
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In reply to: It really depends. Some areas have so many wide sections that at least a 4camalot (old stlye) is assumed on every route(Vedauwoo, Escalante). Other areas ( indian creek, yosemite) rarely get wide without warning. I try to avoid lugging more than a 3.5 friend. Still others (devils tower), I'd be happy with nothing but a double set of stoppers for most routes.
What he said.
Unforseen challenges, I might pack the #4 camalot, but if I bring it, I use it, every time.
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mtnmia
Aug 13, 2006, 5:04 PM
Post #10 of 17
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Oh how I love that 3.5 Camalot!!! It comes in so handy, while still not too heavy.
Of course, another option is to carry one of those new Omega Pacific (I think that is what they are?!?) as a backup piece for the unknown size one may encounter around the corner up there.... It works in a HUGE range of cracks.
Now, in Veedauvoo for example, one can never have enough big gear, even on easy stuff.
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angry
Aug 13, 2006, 5:12 PM
Post #11 of 17
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In reply to: Oh how I love that 3.5 Camalot!!! It comes in so handy, while still not too heavy. Of course, another option is to carry one of those new Omega Pacific (I think that is what they are?!?) as a backup piece for the unknown size one may encounter around the corner up there.... It works in a HUGE range of cracks. Now, in Veedauvoo for example, one can never have enough big gear, even on easy stuff.
Yep, I can't carry enough Valley Giants up "Coldfingers"
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redlegrangerone
Aug 13, 2006, 5:35 PM
Post #12 of 17
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Here in Tucson, I climb either at Mt. Lemmon or Cochise Stronghold. For Lemmon, I will bring the #4 Camalot. I find if I have it, I will use it. In the Stronghold, I always bring the 4.5 and the 5 Camalot. They come in handy when you have to move them up the offwidths as you go.
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grampacharlie
Aug 13, 2006, 5:54 PM
Post #13 of 17
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Registered: May 25, 2006
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Cragging I never leave the #4 camalot at home, and usually bring it multipitching as well. Never been a fan of big bros... i"d almost rather just cut a 2x4 to size and sling that. :oops:
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bootlegger
Aug 17, 2006, 12:50 AM
Post #14 of 17
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Registered: Apr 25, 2005
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Multi-pitch with no beta and can't tell what's above, I take a #4 and a #5 Camalot (new sizes). Normally don't need the #5, but when you end up in that smooth offwidth and need it, you REALLY need it.....
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dbarandiaran
Aug 18, 2006, 9:50 PM
Post #15 of 17
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Registered: May 29, 2003
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the largest i always take is a 3.5 friend and #8 wc hex, also in reserve is a 4 friend and 9 hex
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euroford
Aug 18, 2006, 10:14 PM
Post #16 of 17
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
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the #4 dmm comes with us almost always (advertized range 2.5-3.9) and the bd #3.5 very regularly. if necesary we are more than happy to drag along the bd #4 and wc #5. they have both proven worthwhile many times.
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tallnik
Aug 21, 2006, 2:26 PM
Post #17 of 17
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Registered: Apr 18, 2004
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In reply to: If I've never climbed a particular route and the guidebook doesn't say "bring to x inches", and the route is more than one pitch (where you can't eyeball what size gear you'll need) I generally bring up the kitchen sink, doubles of every size from a blue tcu to 3.5 inches. It just depends on the area. In the gunks I don't usuallly need anything more than 3.5, but there is an occasional route that takes 4 inch pro.
Jesus, that's a lot of stuff to schlep up a climb. A new route, sure... But an established route of a certain grade? Damn...
I take everything from Micro-Cams to a 3.5 BD on most routes, and IF I'm worred about the route takingmore big gear, I'll take my hexes 7-9. That's on the east coast though, where splitter routes are rare.
On finger cracks, I'll sometimes double up on small cams and take some of my partner's aliens.
I'd say anything larger than a 3.5BD and you're talking specialty gear.
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